iJOP YRI G IIT SE C I MUD. 



THE 

DRY CLEANER 



AND 



GARMENT DYER 



BY 



^* J. BIRD, 



PRACTICAL DYER, 



^strcw* 



AUTHOR OF 
The Dyer's Hand Book," and " The American Practical 
Dyer's Companion." 



\ 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Acid Color Mixing 45 

For Garment Dyers 48 

Alkali Blue, How to use 5H 

Alizarine Mordant 102 

Black for Wool 168 

Anilines for Hat Dyeing 90 

Blankets, To Clean 31 

Bleaching Straw 66 

Feathers 77-79 

Wool with Sulphur 33 

Wool without Sulphur 108 

Black Fast Aniline on Wool 72 

on Silk 69, 70, 71, 106 

absolutely Fa 4 on Cotton for Hosiery and 

Knit Goods 105, 106 

Bi-sulphate Soda for Acid Colors 161 

(See later remarks at end. ) 

Cleaning hy Dry Process 9, 19, 22, 25 

Chemicals and their Use 145 

Cleansing, Wet Process 8-26 

Cleansing Goods for Dyeing 35 

Color Mixing 38,39,45 

Cleaning Hats 119 

Curtains, Lace 121 

Feathers 26 

Furs, etc 19 

Contrast of Colors 154 

Dry Cleaning Cloths 1H 

Parasols 8 

Velvet and Plush 22 

Chenille Curtains 23 

Upholstered Goods 25 

Sheepskins is 

Furs, etc , 19 

Painted Goods , 19 

Dye wares and their Use 126 

Dyeing Straw, all Colors 59-65 

Felt and Fur Hats 89-96 

Crape Veils :.... 102 

Velvet and Plush 76 

Eight Colors in one Bath 74 

Fast Wool Black 72 

Fast Black on Silk 69, 70, 71, 106 

Soap Colors on Cotton 66 

(See end of hook for other fast colors.) 



PAGE 

Dyeing Sweet Aniline Colors .39-43 

with Alkali Blue 53 

on Jute 58 

on Flax 59 

with Acid Colors 48 

with Benzine 126 

Enamel for Gloves 21 

Feather Cleaning 26 

Bleaching 77, 79 

Dyeing.. 80, 82 

Fire-proof Building 115 

French Dry Cleaning 8-25 

Finishing Compounds 109 

Fast Colors on Cotton 66, 105, 106 

Glove Dyeing 108 

Hat Cleaning 119 

Harrl Water, To Soften 113 

Harmony of Colors 155 

How To'Clean Dyed Hands 162 

Iron Liquors 140-142 

Irons for Pressing. (See end.) 

Incombustible Wood 118 

Jute Dyeing 58 

Kettles for Dyeing. (See end— Mordants.) 43, 101, 126, 139, 144 

Mordant for all Colors „ 107 

Alizarine 102 

Measures and Weights Compared 171, 182 

Na ph thy 1 amine Black D 166 

Neutral or Sweet Colors 54,39 

One Dip Aniline Black for Cotton 169 

Vegetable Colors, and How to Make 66-69 

Purification of Water 114 

Paint, To Extract 110 

Primary Colors 152 

Redyeing Crape Veils 102 

Spot-Remover 103 

Straw Dyeing 59 65 

Bleaching 66 

Scouring 28, 31 

Sheepskins 32-33, 71-72 

Scouring Soap, To Make 120 

To Level Colors ." 36 

To Handle Goods 36 

To Remove Spots 10, 34, 103 

Velvet and Plush Dyeing 76 

Water, To Test and' Purify 114 

Why Use Aniline Colors? 84 

Wonders of Aniline Chemistry 122 



THE 



Dry Cleaner 



AND 



Garment Dyer 



PREFACE. 

Since the publication of my Dyer's Hand-book, 
1874, and American Practical Dyer's Companion, 
1882, such advancements have been made in coal 
tar and its analagous colors that I have been re- 
quested a great number of times to write a small, 
handy work in the interest of the garment dyer, 
principally introducing all the new colors of real 
value to this branch of the trade, with the best 
means of using the same. Hitherto I could not find 
time to do so. Perhaps this is as well, as several 
new things are just now introduced of such im- 
portance that I force myself to give the trade full 
benefit without further delay. 

At the same time the process of French dry 
cleaning has developed to such a state of almost 
perfection, that I propose to do what, as far as I 
know, has not been done up to this time, namely, 
in a plain, practical manner, reveal all the mystery 
of this fine art, together with the utensils needed, 
and the best place to purchase them. 

I have also been asked for a book on feather 
cleaning and dyeing. This I propose to give atten- 
tion to in this work, as also, many practical hints on 
cleaning in general. As my hand-book has been 
out of print for some years, the last copies having 
been bought up by the late Dr. Frank, of Textile 
Colorist fame, for his personal friends, at double 
publisher's price, and the American Practical 
Dyer's Companion being chiefly in the interest of 
the manufacturer, it has been concluded on all 
hands that such a work as the present will fill a long- 
felt need. It will be sold at a price within the reach 
of all. 



The writer has drawn entirely upon his every-day 
practical experience in the cleaning department; 
and this, also, is so in nearly the whole of the dye- 
ing and finishing departments. Other sources are 
acknowledged, which are the " new things out," of 
which the processes are copied for what they are 
worth. Discretion has, however, been taken to only 
allow what appeared to be of sterling value. 

The Author. 
October, 1891. 



INTRODUCTION. 

Cleaning. — This phrase will be used in connection 
with goods that have soap or other articles brushed 
or sponged over them to remove dirt. 

Scouring. — This is articles that get a soap-bath 
cleaning. 

Dry Cleaning. — Goods that are cleaned in benzine 
or other volatile spirits. 

Cleansing. — This is the freeing from dirt, etc., of 
all goods for dyeing. 

In this work is published for the first time the 
methods to correctly make the one-dip colors, both 
in wood and anilines, with proper proportions. 

Certainly, but for the pressure brought to bear 
upon me, I should not have forced myself to again 
commence the task of writing another book ; but 
realizing the force of the axiom " that it is not theo- 
retical but practical books the trade requires," the 
writer trusts that his efforts will meet the wishes of 
his friends and patrons, as that alone will render 
such an undertaking justifiable. 

The wise man liveth for to learn, 
Then scattereth knowledge in his turn ; 
Thus blessing as he goes along 
The anxious and inquiring throng. 

F. J. Bird. 



CLEANING. 

Many goods are better cleaned than scoured, as 
follows : Woolen rugs and table covers, velvet pile, 
Brussels and Wilton carpets, etc. After they have 
been thoroughly freed from dust (which, by the 
way, in Philadelphia, is called cleaning), to make 
them look clean and bright, spread out, on a clean 
place, and scrub over with a soap prepared as 
follows : — 

Dissolve one pound oil soap in two gallons boiling 
water, and let cool. Then take part of this in a 
bowl, and, with a piece of hard oil soap and stiff 
scrubbing brush, go all over the goods, using a 
sponge or fine sprinkler to quite dampen the sur- 
face. If there are any spots, rub the hard soap on 
them, and scrub till bright; then, with a sponge, 
soak up as quickly as possible all of the soap scrub- 
bings. Then take towels and rub up dry, washing 
the towels out continually in clean water; when as 
dry as can be rubbed, leave that part for another, 
until all is finished. For table covers, or articles 
that are small enough, hang up in airy place to dry, 
free from sun or heat, as either will cause the face to 
look dull. If too large to hang up, let them lie on 
the floor, with doors and windows open. Cloth gar- 
ments, not too dirty, can be cleaned in the same 
way, as also straw and felt hats ; but, as a rule, the 
dry cleaning is best for these. Experience alone 
will decide. Under any circumstances it is only 
safe colors that can be so treated, as no water must 
touch fugitive colors. 



TO CLEAN PARASOLS, 

in plain colors, that cannot be immersed in water, 
can be done by this process only : Before the rub- 
bing up they are rinsed with cold water and a sponge, 
inside and out; then one teaspoonful acetic acid 
to one quart of water, pour all over the outside to 
fix the color and gloss the silk. Rub up dry, and 
hang it up open in the sun so it can dry quickly, and 
so prevent the wires rusting. Only those that will 
not dry clean, on account of too much dirt or worn 
marks, should be done this way. Much depends on 
doing this kind of work quickly for the success 
of it. 

An expert can make many things look equal to 
new done in this way. 

Many things, too dirty or stained for dry cleaning, 
can be treated successfully as follows. Have every- 
thing in readiness : — 

First — The board to scrub on, and brush with 
water and cold soap, and piece of soap. 

Second. — Tub cold water for rinsing off. 

Third. — Tub cold water, with salt in, for cotton or 
woolen goods, or if silk, or partly silk, acetic acid 
in place of salt. 

One man can do all the details as here given by 
taking one piece at a time through the different pro- 
cesses as follows, but for this delicate work it is 
better to have help, as : — 

The first, to wet the spot, soap it, then scrub it ; 
then hand it to be washed through cold oil soap; 
then, through cold-water tub; then, into salt, or the 
acetic acid ; to remain in the salt or acid a short 
time will not hurt, so that several pieces can follow 
one another till all reach the salt or acid; if small 
things, use a wringer ; if large, a whizzer ; then, if at 
all doubtful about running in drying, have sheets of 
cotton or linen; spread goods on, roll up tight, 



shake out, and hang to dry; silk must not be rolled 
up, but, with soft cloths, rubbed up dry. 

This cold cleaning is mostly suitable for single 
ripped or doubtful things, but the sheeting is good 
for poorly-dyed cotton and woolen macle-up goods ; 
they sometimes require two or three good sheetings, 
so that enough dampness is not left in to run. 



FRENCH DRY CLEANING. 

This is so called for the following reasons : — 

First — The French were the first to practise this 
method. 

Second. — The materials used are mostly volatile. 

Turpentine, rectified, and called camphene, was the 
chief spirit used- at first. This had a very pungent 
odor, offensive to many, and it left kid gloves harsh. 
Other things were tried, and at last benzine was 
universally adopted as the chief factor. As I have 
had quite a large experience and been very success- 
ful in handling fine goods, as well as plain, I shall 
give full details and explain all secret processes not 
previously revealed. 

The most elaborate dresses, costing $100 and up- 
wards, I have cleaned by this method : — 

First — Look it over and see what stains or water 
marks it has. Does not matter how much dirt or 
grease, as this will easily remove ; but you want to 
get a good idea of what the stains are composed of, 
so as to know how to remove them. 

Many people look to this last, and cleanse first. 
I prefer the opposite, if the article is not very 
dirty, for the reason that, if cleaned first, the mate- 
rials used to dissolve or scatter the stains will leave 
a mark around, which will be difficult to remove, 
and if the stains are taken out first the marks will 
in most cases wash out in process of cleaning. 



10 



Second. — Take the article to be cleaned, and, if 
plain, lay it on a clean board ; if a made-up skirt, 
pass a clean ironing board through it. Then take 
one stain at a time. Egg or other substance that 
stands in lumps remove as much as can be with back 
of knife or thumb-nail so as not to fray or injure the 
fabric. 

Then moisten slightly with cold water, touch 
with piece of hard, dry oil soap, slightly brush with 
nail brush until removed.. Then with soft cloth 
dampened in cold water, wipe off till clean; then 
place dry, clean cloth under, and rub on the surface 
with soft, clean cloth till dry, taking care that all 
the outside parts of the spot is rubbed so dry that it 
cannot run or leave any mark around. If the spot 
is paint — say black or dark red — benzine will re- 
move it in the same way, only no water must be 
used, and the spot must be washed in it every now 
and then to wash out the stain as fast as it is loosened. 
This is done by gathering up the spot and dipping 
it into the liquor, and so keep on until it is out. 
If light paint, alcohol is a better solvent than ben- 
zine. It is used in the same manner. 

Some materials are so thin that you cannot work 
with them long enough to take it all out. In that 
case, you must fall back upon your bargain with the 
owner to take out dirt and grease, and as much of 
other things as will come out. 

Ink stain. — All material that is white and will 
bear it may be treated as follows : Have a teacup 
nearly full of hot water, place the spot over, and a 
speck of oxalic acid on the spot, then lower enough 
for it to dissolve on the spot, when it disappears. 
In another teacup of warm water place the goods, 
to wash out the acid. 

Four parts boiling water to one part muriatic 
acid can be used in place of oxalic, and if the 
material has cotton in it will not be liable to injury, 
as muriatic acid rots cotton less than anv other acid. 



11 



Light cream and some other light shades will stand 
this treatment, but not any delicate tints of blue, 
green, pink, etc. 

Sugar, ice cream and glutinous matter will not 
dissolve in any of the volatile spirits, but can be 
removed by the use of spot liquor, used as directed 
in place of water, or with water as per instructions 
on bottle, particulars of which will be found at end 
of book. 

PITCH, TAR, OIL AND GREASE. 

Benzine is the best solvent for all of these. Treat 
in the same way as for paint. If, however, it is 
hard to remove through long standing, then heat 
cotton-seed oil and pour on the spot to soften it; 
when soft wash and scrub and scrub and wash till 
it is out. This last process will not injure the color, 
but is more suited to dark work and thick goods. 

WATER MARKS, LEMONADE, BEER, ETC. 

In many cases when garments have gotten wet 
the color has been loosened or the water and dirt so 
united in the drying that run marks were formed, 
which in some cases can be taken out only by wet 
cleaning and sometimes not even then. If, how- 
ever, the nature of the article is such that it must 
be dry cleaned, see that all dirt is well brushed out, 
as a good brushing will often take a lot of it out. 
Then proceed with cold water and dry oil soap, for 
green, pink, blue, etc., as explained for egg stain. 
If the colors are stronger and will stand a little spot 
liquor, so much the better. 

Wine, fruit and other stains of this kind are very 
difficult to treat on delicate colors, as what will take 
the stains out will also remove the ground color of 
the material. And, moreover, it often happens if 
the stains can be taken out, that the acid or coloring 



12 



matter in the wine or fruit has changed the color 
So, as a rule, just steeping the spot in cold water 
and use towels with soap, then rubbing dry, is the 
best that can be done. 

Wax. — Scrape off all you can, and let benzine, 
hard soap and brush do the rest. Eub dry. 

Blood. — Soak in plenty of cold water. This will 
remove any amount. 

Milk and Cream. — Water and spot liquor com- 
bined is the best. Proceed as for ice cream, etc. 

Glue and Gum. — Steep in w T ater only. Rub dry. 

[Now, after any or all of the above processes have 
been gone through, let the article dry as quickly as 
possible. When dry, if a plain article, lay it upon 
a flat board, which shall be 7 feet long, 14 or 15 
inches wide, 1 inch thick. This board, finished 
quite smooth, if made of birch or hard poplar, free 
from knots, need not be covered with zinc; if of 
soft wood, it requires covering because of the amount 
of benzine it absorbs. This board should be placed 
over a zinc-lined, wooden trough 6 feet long, 30 
inches wide, 24 inches deep, raised on four pieces, 
two at each end. Pieces, say, 4 inches wide, 1 inch 
thick, 36 inches long, screwed on each end corner 
flush to the front, lifting the trough 6 inches from 
the ground. This enables a bowl to go under one 
end, which should be 2 inches lower than the other, 
having an inch hole through the trough from its 
inside, so that all liquor that falls into it can pass 
through the hole and drop into the bowl. All 
liquors so caught is saved in a zinc kettle with lid, 
and when settled down will be poured off for use as 
afterwards explained. The four pieces or legs will 
then stand 6 inches above the trough, across which 
a 3-inch piece, 1 inch thick, is screwed ; this piece 1 
inch from the top. On these end pieces the long- 
board rests, making it level with the top of the legs ; 
this forms a table which can be raised or lowered to 
suit the height of the worker. The ends can be 



13 

filled up on the ioside to level of legs, and the back 
filled up 6 inches above the top of table, so that the 
splashing from scrubbing will be caught by it and 
drip down into the trough. On top of this piece, at 
back, a 6-inch shelf can be fixed to hold scrubbing 
brushes, soap, etc. This necessary digression brings 
us to the board upon which plain things (by which 
is meant articles that will lie fiat) are placed for 
scrubbing. Skirts have a board the shape of an 
ironing board passed through them and placed in 
the same way on the end pieces. Now get a large 
bowl of benzine, which place on right hand of table, 
and a good stiff scrubbing brash. Dip brush in 
benzine and dampen over about 12 inches square, 
then rub softly a piece of dry cleaning soap, if you 
have it, if not, white, dry Castile will do, but no 
other; then scrub, always taking care to brush the 
strongest way of the material, as some things, espe- 
cially Surah silk, satin, chenille curtains, etc., have 
three times as many threads one way as they have the 
other, and would easily part or fray. When that 
square is brushed, take another, until the whole 
piece is soaped and brushed. This operation 
requires to be done as quickly as possible on thin 
goods, or one part will get dry before you have got 
through, and if the scrubbings get dried in it is 
almost impossible to get them out again, as it forms 
a kind of glue or varnish that sticks as a fast stain. 
When the scrubbing is finished the article is put 
into a kettle made of zinc, any suitable size, say, 
2 feet long, 18 inches deep, 15 inches broad, is bet- 
ter than round and stronger. This kettle half fill 
with benzine before starting to scrub. Well agitate 
the article in this and turn over and over several 
times to wash out the scrubbings. A punch, or 
dolly, as it is called in the old country, is good for 
lifting and striking down on the goods, as this 
knocks all of the scrubbings out. For description 
of punch, see end of book. 



14 



A washing machine is used by some, but it is not 
any better and is more expensive. A zinc kettle is 
preferable to any other, because zinc does not absorb 
any liquor or require so much cleaning, and is 
always sweet and clean, with no mechanism to get 
out of order. The article is allowed to drip only a 
short time ; if it drips too long it is liable to dry, and 
that dry place shows a stain. Then place it carefully 
in the centrifugal machine to dry; a few turns is all 
that is required. Have ready prepared a blanket 
for dark goods, and a white sheet on top for light 
goods, laid on table to spread the goods on as they 
come from the machine. 

At this point it is carefully examined, and, if a 
spot or anything appears, it can be dampened with 
benziue, touched with soap, brushed and then rubbed 
with cloth just as quickly as possible. The whole 
article is gone over with a soft white cloth for light 
goods, and soft sateen cloths of dark color will be 
best for dark articles, as no lint comes off this 
material. 

Now the article is ready to put up to dry in an 
airy place or in gentle stove heat, but not in hot 
sun, as too much heat fixes the scent in, and is liable 
to make it run on pleats or double parts of goods ; 
open or plain goods will not hurt. 

Examine goods when dry, before finishing, and, 
if any spots are there, remove them by one or other 
of the spot removers mentioned. Often spots from 
feeding show up. Take each spot on the tip of finger, 
dampen with water, scrub with nail brush and wipe 
off; this generally does it quite easily. 

Fronts of dresses sometimes show quite a number 
of stains after dry cleaning. If they are very 
numerous and near each other it is best to treat one 
at a time with cold water and soap only, allowing 
the water mark to spread from one spot to the other, 
so that at last only one large water mark is left ; 
this get dry cloth under and rub with dry cloth on 



15 



top, scattering the water mark all around its rim 
till it gets so thin in dampness at its margins, that 
no mark will be seen. 

Have had to do it sometimes out to its seams and 
up to band and down to bottom. And when rubbed 
up no one would know it had been wet cleaned. 

PRESSING OR FINISHING. 

After Dry Cleaning. — If handled properly, very little 
is needed, as a smoothing iron is held in the hand 
(not too hot) so that only enough weight rests on 
the thin goods to smooth them without making an 
iron mark. If the article is creased or has plate 
marks or tumbled places in, then dampen a soft 
cloth, not a sponge, as the cloth will dampen the 
goods more evenly, and rub the parts just enough to 
smooth the goods, but not to wet them. Particular 
care must be taken never to wet goods after dry 
cleaning, or the new appearance of dry-cleaned 
goods will depart. These remarks do not apply to 
cloth or thick goods, as they are finished by using a 
damper spread on before the iron goes on, then 
while steaming, brush smooth. Made-up clothes are 
done the same way. 

Made-up Clothes — When not too soiled are far 
better in every respect dry cleaned, as they look, feel 
and press up better. They do not get drawn out of 
place like scouring process and takes less time. So, 
all things considered, it is not more expensive to dry 
clean than to scour, and has the following advan- 
tages : — 

First. — The color will not be changed or the fades 
intensified. 

Second. — One part will not shrink from the other. 

Third. — Articles can be done at a few hours' 
notice, if required. 

Fourth. — They are free from odor if the following 
rules are observed : — 



16 



First — For goods required quickly, use only 
clean benzine; either for scrubbing, punching, or 
washing. 

Second. — Use only dry cleaning soap, as this 
does not leave the peculiar scent that Castile soap 
does. 

Third. — Spread out the goods as much as possible 
in an airy place. 

Silk, sateen and all thin goods can be so finished. 
Some people prefer to cylinder them up. My 
objection to this is: For cylindering, they require 
dipping in water to get them to adhere to the cylin- 
der, and in some delicate colors and figured goods 
of different colors this is running too much risk, 
especially on silks, most of which are dyed in a 
soap bath, and finished up with the following sol- 
uble ingredients : glue, gum, glycerine, sugar, etc. 
So, if the color did not run, any or all of the finish- 
ings in it may. 

Velvets and plush goods, after dry cleaning, can be 
finished as explained elsewhere, but is best finished on 
steam tables, or, if there are no steam table, dampen 
the back with sponge and lay it on the cylinder and 
brush up the pile while it steams. This, of course, 
refers to plain, unlined pieces. Waists, coats, etc., 
that are lined, should go on the steam table for the 
large parts, and on copper steam arms for sleeves, etc. 



CLOTHES-CLEANING REMARKS, ESPE- 
CIALLY REFERRING TO DRY CLEANING. 

First. — Look well to dirt and mud, and see that 
all is brushed out. 

Second. — See that all dust is well beaten or shaken 
out, for benzine takes grease out far better than it 
does dirt and dust, and if goods are brought to be 
cleaned, when finished, they ought to be free from 
all dirt, dust, grease, etc. Ladies' dark dresses and 



17 



gentlemen's overcoats, especially, require beating. 
A good, stout flexible cane is best for this purpose- 

Third. — Let no spots escape notice, as before 
they are commenced to be scrubbed, every spot 
should have a soap mark on it. If dirt, pitch, 
tar or grease, benzine and soap ought to take it out 
by scrubbing. Sometimes, however, scrubbing 
does not; then it must be dipped in benzine and 
rubbed with the hands ; if not out then, wash, rub, 
and dip in alcohol, sulphuric ether, or turpentine; 
but, in the latter, the scent is objectionable. If the 
article has much tar or pitch on, soak it with any 
sweet oil, or lard for a day or two, to soften it; and, 
if very much and very hard, then dip it alternately 
in hot oil and warm benzine, sousing the spot each 
dip. If spots of starch, sugar, paste, or any glutinous 
matter are there, spot liquor is the thing, used as 
per printed instructions. 

It should be an article in the dry-cleaner's religion 
to faithfully remove all spots, as a failure to remove 
them brings dry cleaning into disrepute. More 
than half of my customers say that dry cleaning 
done at other places is nothing more than the spots 
brushed over enough to hide them, which reappear 
in a few days, and causes many to think dry clean- 
ing is no good. Now, when all spots are removed, 
lay the article on the table over the trough and wet 
it with benzine, soap and scrub all of the soiled 
places, not leaving it till it looks bright and clean. 
Use plenty of benzine on it, as it is not lost, for the 
trough catches it, through which it passes into a 
bowl, and thence emptied into a wash boiler to 
settle. After settlement, the clean is used for next 
scrubbing of goods not white or very light. All 
light goods must have only perfectly clean liquor, 
both for scrubbing and punching. 

"When all the cloth is scrubbed clean, then look 
to the linings, and do them in the same way. They 
will come clean and bright if the scrubbing is not 



18 



at fault. Dry cleaning, for certain, means plenty 
of elbow and wrist labor. Many fail through not 
knowing that soap can and must be used to make a 
good job. 

The goods are now washed or punched, if light 
goods, in clean liquor ; if dark, in what has been 
used before. The same liquor will do from two to 
four times, according to the color and condition of 
the goods. 

Dirty goods will do in used liquor first, and after 
draining, punch through clean to finish. Then 
whizz and rub up as already described. 

When dry they want looking over again, and if 
any spots show use spot liquor and rub up dry. 

All the light linings must be rubbed over with 
soft white cloth and the dark with a dark cloth, so 
it does not get the lint of the white cloth rubbed 
into the dark goods, as this is hard to brush out. 

Sometimes, after pressing, on drab and other 
colors places show dirty looking. This is caused by 
not being thoroughly scrubbed or not having been 
properly rubbed up. Especially this appears on 
sides of pants, elbows of coats, etc. This can often 
be remedied without recleauing by rubbing crumbs 
of bread several days old on the spot, or a rubber 
tablet is good. Fret the place with the sand part 
and then rub the sand dust off with the rubber part. 

For white or gray goods get a piece of French 
chalk (not powder) and rub till clean, then rub the 
marks of this off with crumbs of bread or a soft 
clean cloth. 



CLEANING SHEEP-SKIN RUGS, ETC. 

If not very dirty they will dry clean by pouring 
the benzine into them, well soaping, and rubbing 
the open hand over them. When dry, if the white 
looks dingy, rub flour well into it and when nice 



19 



looking beat all of the flour out and comb it 
smooth. 

The back will be soft from dry cleaning ; if dirty, 
should be scrubbed before the face is commenced. 

If too dirty for dry cleaning, you will find the 
process of scouring them under the heading " wet 
cleaning." 

Druggets, etc., can be cleaned in the same 
manner, only leave out the flour. 

CLEANING FUES, SKINS, WINGS, ETC. 

White Furs are cleaned same as white rugs. 

Dark-colored Furs are rubbed with bran after they 
are dry from the benzine and soap. 

Mack Furs and Skins, or very dark ones, generally 
do without the bran. 

Wings come quite clean, even white ones, scrubbed 
on a tray with benzine and soap, and then washed 
and rubbed dry. 

The object of putting them through the benzine 
is, if they are very dirty, it will save a lot of time, as 
it will take most of the dirt out and help to raise the 
fur that has been matted and laid down. The bran 
will finish the raising and soften and gloss the fur. 
A very fine comb and stiff brush will complete it. 

FANCY SILK PAINTED GOODS, ETC. 

Fans, etc. — Are cleaned as described, with benzine 
and soap. These must be very carefully scrubbed 
so as not to brush the paint or feathers too much. 
Only oil-colored goods are safe to handle, and they 
must be done quickly. 

Water Colors. — Don't touch them, as some of the 
aniline colors are simply dissolved in alcohol or 
benzine and quickly dried, and just as soon as any 
liquor touches them they will go. 



20 



If not sure about oil or water colors just take 
them in at owner's risk ; if a success, to be paid for, 
if not no charge. This is a good rule to adopt for 
all doubtful or worn goods. 

Leather Goods, embossed or not, will clean in ben- 
zine with soap ; rub dry. 

KID GLOVES 

Are dene in the same way as leather, care being 
taken to well rub up every part. Some clean them 
on wooden hands, but these are expensive and not 
necessary, except to show a glove in the window. 
Others clean them on a tray, but rub them up after 
squeezing the benzine out, on turned sticks about 
12 inches long, running to a point at one end and a 
diameter of 1J inches at the other. The big end 
rests against the chest and the finger on a clean 
cloth placed on a table. This is a very good plan, 
but takes longer about than laying them on the 
table to rub. After they are rubbed, not only on 
the fiat, but also the sides by turning them that way, 
then, if not too long, draw in a long breath of 
wind and blow it in at one puff. This will fill them 
out as full as though cleaned on a hand. 

Buckskin and Doeskin Gloves can be done in the 
same way if not too dirty. If very dirty they have 
to be washed in soap bath and whiting for white, 
and other earthy dry colors to match dark ones. 
They are dried up from this without a wash. 

The object of the earthy matter in the soap are two 
fold : first, it gives a fullness ; second, it covers stains. 
Of course only enough is used to color the soap 
liquor. Before they are quite dry they require to be 
stretched into shape. And when not quite hard 
dry put them on the hands and rub them soft. 

Leather Breeches are done in the same way as 
buckskin gloves. They are better dried in the air 
than by heat. 



21 



STAINS IN GLOVES. 

Ladies handle candies, fruits and so many other 
things, that, after having done your best to remove, 
part of the stains will show. Oxalic acid, muriatic 
acid, salts sorrel, etc., will remove bad stains, but 
they all harden the kid. 

ENAMEL FOR GLOVES. 

After cleaning gloves are always a lighter shade. 
If the owner will pay the extra expense they can be 
re-enamelled, as follows : — 

White. — French chalk, finely powdered, rubbed on 
with chamois leather, then small piece of hard, 
smooth, dry cleaning soap to polish. 

Drab. — Yellow ochre with Prussian blue in very 
small proportion, mixed with French chalk, then 
soap as for white. 

Yellow. — Ochre with chalk and soap over. 

Gray. — Blue with chalk to match. 

Brown. — Burnt umber and chalk. 

For any other color get dry materials to mix with 
the chalk. Painters keep such in a dry state before 
oil is added to it. 

Beeswax may be used in place of soap on dark 
colors, after the wax has been used, by rubbing, 
up to a polish. 

Of course, all of the above have to be used very 
sparingly or it will rub off. Properly done, the 
gloves will not soil so soon as those not so done, and 
certainly look better, for which an extra charge can 
be made of at least five cents per pair for small and 
ten cents for larger. 

Buck and doeskin gloves, etc., if not too much 
soiled will do dry cleaned. If much soiled they are 
cleaned in cold oil soap, with just a little whitening 
in it, for white gloves. For colored ones, use the 



colors in the soap to match the gloves (as described 
before). 

These kind of gloves should be placed on the 
hands of the person cleaning ; or, at least, after they 
are cleaned, to press all the soap out and keep in 
shape, then hang to dry in air, not sun. They must 
not be rinsed after washing, and before quite dry 
must again be put on hands to stretch into good 
shape. 

FELT HATS. 

Any color will clean as described, with benzine 
and soap. Well scrubbed, washed off and rubbed 
up. 

SILK HATS. 

Brush all dust out first ; see that the nap is all 
one way, then use soft sponge well dampened with 
benzine. If very dirty, wet and sponge evenly over 
until clean. Then rub with dark soft cloth till 
almost dry, then finish with soft silk cloth, soft plush 
or cotton wool till quite dry. Fresh benzine must 
be used for every one, as dirty benzine will make 
the nap sticky. 



VELVET CURTAINS. 

The board on trough was made 6 feet 6 inches 
long so that curtains could open out on it. The 
previous process is adopted, only using care to 
handle carefully. Every part will not be soiled alike, 
therefore, some parts will not require as much work 
as others. After they are finished and rubbed up 
with clean hard brush, set the pile all one way, then 
hang straight to dry. 

If lined, that should be cleaned also. The lining 
may require smoothing lightly, but not the velvet. 



If, however, the pile is crushed in places, such 
places will require to be raised on steam table ; fail- 
ing that, place a damp cloth on top of hot iron, and 
hold the places over, and brush pile up as its steams. 



PLUSH CURTAINS, ETC. 

They are done in the same way as velvet, but 
often require finishing. 

This is done by putting a cloth on the face, wrung 
out of water as tight as can be, then, with even 
pressure, pass hot iron on top, and while steaming 
brush up the pile, and so continue until the whole 
is done. 

Much experience is needed to make them look 
like new, but I have seen them so appear. If lined, 
the pile is laid together long ways, so as not to 
tumble it, then the back is pressed lightly, dry. That 
is, no damper is used. 

The above finishing is given for those who have 
not the steam table, which is much preferred. 



CHENILLE CURTAINS. 

These are done in the same way as velvet, care 
being taken to brush pile right away. If marks 
from hanging by hooks, etc., are in them, a cloth 
must be used that is damp and iron on top and 
brush up as the plush. It is better to do it two or 
three times lightly than too heavy at once, to crush 
the pile, or it would look different to the other 
parts. 

SILK AND SATIN CURTAINS 

Often have ily marks on them ; as benzine will 
not remove them, spot liquor must. 



24 



This is done first, and a folded cloth put under to 
absorb any dampness, a dry place being used for 
every spot. 

Make just damp enough to remove it and rub dry 
at once, then dry the curtain before dry-cleaning it. 

VELVET AND PLUSH PIECES. 

After cleaning and dry, finish with damp cloth on 
face. Iron velvet very lightly, then brush at once, 
turn over and iron on backs without damper. Only 
stout velvet will bear this ; this must be raised on a 
steamer which is made shallow, say 4 in. deep, 2 ft. 
long, 1 ft. wide, with perforated top, on the oval and 
quite smooth. Steam can be let in, or water can be 
kept boiling under it, and velvet drawn over. It 
requires two persons, one to draw while the other 
holds, then it is ironed on the back till smooth. If 
it is large pieces and much crushed the third person 
should hard brush it as it is drawn and steamed. 

The steamer here mentioned can be made of tin 
or copper, to stand on a stove for those who have 
not steam. See cut at end of book. 

It is considered that sufficient examples have now 
been given for clothes and draperies to suggest to 
any ordinary person the best way to proceed with 
other articles. With the methods given the writer 
has cleaned from the plainest up to the finest work, 
including a French imported bonnet made on gauze 
frame, with velvet, lace, flowers and feathers, no 
part being taken off. Parasols cannot be considered 
clothing, but they have their place for use and orna- 
ment. For dry cleaning they are held with one 
hand on the table, and with the other well scrubbed 
with benzine and soap, one section at a time, going 
over the central part, where the creases and dirt 
always exist, two or three times. If any section first 
done looks like drying up, throw clean benzine on, 



25 



as it must be kept wet till it is scrubbed all over. 
Then wash benzine over it, rub up and dry open. It 
will be quite smooth and, only need to have the 
trimmings lightly pressed. 



UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE, SCREENS, ETC. 

This class of work gives good results, though 
very few attempt it. 

Saturate with benzine, rub on soap, scrub, and 
repeat till clean. Always commence at top and 
work down. Let one cloth follow another till dry. 
Labor is the chief expense. 

One man can do a large suit in one day, for which 
$10 to §12 is charged. 

Few garment cleaners would think of taking in 
oil paintings to clean. This class of work will pay 
well and look well. Get a dirty one and cut a 
potato in half, and after wiping all dust off the 
painting, rub the juice of the potato on one-half till 
clean, then with a damp, clean cloth wipe it dry, and 
the dirty half will show up the clean. 

There is no danger of the process injuring the oil 
or color or varnish, and $5 can be earned in a few 
minutes on a good picture. 

Before leaving the dry-cleaning department will 
say that in washing or punching goods after scrub- 
bing, give plenty of benzine to wash in, and open 
goods out several times so that all of the dirty parts 
can have a good chance to get clean. 

About live gallons is required to punch one suit of 
clothes in. Of course, the light colors are done 
first, then the darker, then the darkest. One lot, 
with addition, will serve for about three suits, it is 
then put aside or emptied into another vessel to 
settle for a day or so, when, without shaking up, it 
is poured off as long as clean, and the balance cast 
into the drain, taking care to let water run down the 



% 

drain so that the dirty stuff shall not stop there and 
be offensive. 

I have tried to make it all plain, but if not, any- 
one buying this book and sending stamped directed 
envelope with any question, shall get a reply ; and 
anyone wishing to see my plant can do so by paying 
$1 the time of showing it. Any who wish to come 
here and receive practical lessons on their own or on 
our goods can do so at reasonable rates per lesson. 
Or we can send some one to teach parties who desire 
it at their own place. 

FEATHER CLEANING. 

If very little soiled dry cleaning may do, but they 
require mostly the following treatment : — 

Wash in warm bath of oil soap ; have a piece of soft 
flannel, upon which pass some soap, and apply to all 
extra dirty places, holding the feathers in one hand, 
and washing down only, so as not to break them. 
Now prepare a bowl of warm water to wash the soap 
out, throw them in to soak while you get another bowl 
of warm water, containing just enough sulphuric 
acid to taste a little sharp; now wash all of the soap 
out in the warm water, and lift and open out into 
the acid water, and let them lie in for a short time 
to bleach the sunburn and wear marks out. For 
this, some use oxalic acid ; others, salts of tartar. 

While they lie in the acid get a bowl, into which 
place a tablespoonful of dry starch and half pint cold 
water, dissolve, then draw the feathers one at a time 
through the starch, as open as possible, so that it 
will get into all the parts alike. Then draw through 
the fingers to press the starch liquor out, draw 
through a clean cloth once or twice, then, holding 
the stems in one hand, strike the other parts over 
the back of the other hand to part them out. Hang 
up by a string to dry in a place where the wind will 
blow through them. If not much wind, agitate or 



27 

shake them before they get hard dry. While drying 
get some water in a tea kettle ; one made of tin is 
the best, with the spout up higher than usual, so 
that when it boils it will give off steam from the 
spout instead of the top. The top must fit tight to 
prevent steam from escaping there. The water in 
the kettle must never be quite up to spout, or no 
steam will pass through the spout. If a person has 
convenience a little steam jet will do, like a gas 
arrangement that can be turned on or off. The feathers 
are held by the end of stem and tip, and the back 
passed up and down over the steam several times. 
This will blow the fronds out, and open it to its 
fullest extent. Then lay them straight on a table, 
and comb them out. As they are combed, one at 
a time, they can be laid straight in a pile of a dozen 
or so till dry, when they will be curled to desirable 
shape, and wire the stem. 

Light-colored feathers are done in the same way. 

If any light colors are faded, a little aniline can 
be dissolved in boiling water and added to the cold 
starch. The color must be used very sparingly 
or they will get too dark, and they must be kept 
well agitated all of the time they are kept in the 
starch, so the color will take evenly. In this case, 
enough starch and water is made to give them plenty 
of room. The acid left in the feathers (they must 
not be washed from the acid before going into the 
starch) is generally enough to enable them to take 
up the color. If it is found otherwise, add a drop to 
the bath. This process may be termed " tinting." 
It is only light shades that do well in a cold bath, 
but these will wear as well as when done in a hot 
bath, and is less trouble. 

The curling is no use to try to explain, as this is 
an art, and has to be learned. Feather bleaching 
see article on " bleaching." 

Feather dyeing will be treated on in dyeing de- 
partment. 



28 

For further particulars see the Practical Feather 
Cleaner and Dyer, which is devoted entirely to the 
subject, with fifty dyed samples, by Alexander Paul. 
See advertisement at end. 

SCOURING. 

Goods that are too dirty or stained for wet or dry 
cleaning must be treated as follows: — 

Sort out, and if some are likely to be of fugitive 
or poor-set colors get all of the following ready 
beforehand : — 

First — A cold oil soap water to wash or punch 
them in. 

Second. — A cold water to rinse in. In some cases 
two cold waters. 

Third. — Another cold water with one table spoon- 
ful of salt to the gallon. Salt is the only chemical 
that will dissolve equally well in cold or hot water. 
If it is cotton or linen goods with yellow or green in, 
add one teaspoonful of alum to the salt for every 
gallon. The alum must be dissolved in boiling 
water. 

Fourth. — Clean sheets must be spread on a table. 

All things being ready, everything for success 
depends on quick work. If any very dirty places 
are seen, give them a cold soap and brush, 
wash through the soap, wring, wash in cold 
water, in this open out and see if it is clean, 
if not, rub soap on and rub out in the same cold 
water, wring, then put into the salt, open out in this 
so the salt can get to and set all parts, wring as dry 
as can be and fold in the sheets. Wring up in these 
and while wrung up strike with hand all up the 
sheet, this will make the article nearly dry. Then 
shake out and hang up open so they may finish dry- 
ing quickly. 

Silk and thread curtains that have had water 
marks and other things on that dry cleaning would 



29 



not remove have been done this way with much 
satisfaction. Badly-stained ladies' wraps, dresses 
that are taken from the waist band, or not bunched 
up in thick parts, children's clothes, gents' thin 
summer coats, etc., etc., brought in for dry cleaning, 
have at times to be done by this scouring process 
for your own credit. Some thin goods have a little 
stiffening in them when new, to give them body. In 
such cases, thread goods, get a little starch in just 
enough of the salt water to open it out in before the 
sheeting. 

If thin silk goods, they need not go in the salt, 
but in an acetic acid cold bath. A little of this may 
be used with the starch. One teaspoonful of acid is 
about the proportion to a gallon of water. A more 
expensive stiffening can be used with better effect 
for thread goods, viz. : Gum arabic or dextrine, 
dissolved for the purpose. 

For silk, equal parts gum, glycerine and loaf or 
pure white granulated sugar. This is used in new 
goods, and does not rattle, is not harsh, and gives 
body. After silks are washed they lose this and 
become flimsy. This dressing will suit any color, 
and the acetic acid in it prevents the silk from mil- 
dew and gives gloss. Never wash after it, or it will 
wash out, but go straight to the cylinder with it for 
finishing. 

Thick clothes are done in the same way, only, 
warm waters may be used, but not hot, or they will 
shrink. 

Oil soap stock keeps up a surprising lather for all 
cleaning purposes. 

- Thin woolen goods, alpacas, lustres, etc., are bet- 
ter to have just a trifle of stiffening at the finish, as 
it gives back the fullness it had before. Thick 
things, of course, do not require it. After they are 
finished, before hanging up to dry, give a good 
shake and pull well into shape. They will press up 
much better. Some things have cotton in and are 



30 



liable to run in color ; light pants sometimes have 
black linings in the fly, and coats and vests have 
black pockets (shame on the tailor !) in such cases, 
after they are well whizzed it is safe to sheet them, 
but in no case use alum to such, as some do, think- 
ing to fix it ; salt will do that better. Alum, the 
reverse, because of the nature of the acid it con- 
tains, which affects cotton, but not wool. Yet, it is 
not good for cleaned woolen goods, as it makes them 
harsh and whitish looking. 

Faded grays, etc., are improved by having a little 
soluble blue or opal blue, dissolved, and added very 
sparingly with one drop of sulphuric acid, or, better 
still, three drops of acetic acid in the salt bath. Of 
course, they must be well opened out, so it can take 
evenly; by this means a fresher look is imparted. 

BLACK GOODS SCOURING. 

I have found from experience that black shawls 
and open goods are best, when too dirty for dry 
cleaning, to be taken up out of the soap after all 
spots, etc., have been taken out with barely warm 
soap scrubbing and without rinsing; dried openly, 
as the washing after soap decomposes it, causing the 
whole surface to assume a white mottled appear- 
ance. Whereas, if dried directly from the soap 
that does not occur, and the goods receive a fullness 
from the soap which is very desirable. Care must 
however be taken not to get up out of dirty soap. 
If the first is too much soiled give it another 
soaping. 

Made-up goods, of course, cannot be so treated. 
If cloth with a nap or pile is so cleaned, brush the 
pile down before drying. 

White open goods do well the same way, but 
made-up goods are liable to run in the thick parts 
unless they are washed in warm water from the 
soap. 



31 



Colored goods after soap and warm water wash 
should always go into salt water. 



CHENILLE CURTAINS, ETC. 

These sometimes have to be scoured when gone 
too far for dry cleaning. Proceed with them as for 
fugitive colors and before drying brush the pile the 
right way on both sides and dry in air; the sun 
will make them run. After they are dry just fold 
them up quite square and tie the ends; this keeps 
them from getting tumbled. When dry, if the 
pile looks crushed, they must be steamed and 
brushed up as described for plush curtains. 



BLANKETS SCOURED. 

Colored ones, but not often white ones, will do dry 
cleaned. If too dirty for that, then treat them same 
as black goods on previous page, and if the wind is 
good to dry thern quickly (such weather should be 
chosen, if possible) they need not be washed from 
the soap, but must be whizzed as dry as possible. If 
they have to be dressed lay them as soon as taken 
from the whizzer, selvage to selvage on a clean table, 
find the way of pile and brush it quite fiat so that it 
lays down like new, then turn over and do other 
side the same. Some have pile on both sides, and 
if owner wishes dress them both sides. The charge 
is 25 cents for cleaning single blanket, 25 cents for 
dressing one side, 50 cents for dressing both sides; 
so that a single blanket cleaned and dressed, both 
sides, costs 75 cents, which pays very well. A good 
brush made from broom stock is good for setting 
the pile, but a carding handle will set it finer. This 
is wire set into leather, on back of which is a wooden 



32 



back, to which a leather strap can be placed to put 
the hand through. If there is any indication of the 
stripes running into the white, it is best to wash 
from the soap and give a slight souse in cold water 
before wringing. 

Poles strong enough not to sway in the middle 
are used to dry on. If there is no pole a strong 
galvanized wire is the next best thing; some say 
copper wire, but it sways too soon and oxidizes. 
Let care be taken to hang up perfectly straight and 
level, as they look badly out of square. Lift, not 
drag, over pole, or the pile will be all roughed up 
again. The punch, as already spoken of, is the most 
useful thing for all this class of work. Wipe down 
poles and lines with damp cloth before putting up 
light goods. Many forget this and have to go over 
it again. 

In hanging up wet, cleaned or scoured goods do 
not use the wire coat-holder, as goods look badly 
iron molded. Nothing is better than a clean part 
of a wooden hoop. The wire holders are all right 
for dry goods. 



SHEEP SKINS SCOURED. 

Cold soap lather, or, at best, slightly warm, is all 
that must be used. Before commencing, see if it is 
in good preservation, as they sometimes get rotten 
from being on damp places ; if they are inclined to 
crumble have nothing to do with them. If only 
ripped, sew up the rips ; if broken, put a piece of 
linen on the part ; if good, but thin, make a flour 
paste and when cold sponge over and fold together, 
then sew around ; this prevents them parting. 

After the job is finished, take the stitches out, 
open, pull square and dry. 

The soap liquor is poured on one part at a time, 
and if very dirty rub oil soap over it. 



m 



Now with the hands keep working it until clean 
and so on till the whole is done, then turn up sides 
and ends and work at those. 

With the hands or sides of scrubbing brush draw 
all the soap offj and if clean wash in water a little 
warm. Repeat till clean. 

Now whizz it as dry as possible. If it is now clean * 
but does not look a clean white (as white gets 
tanned with wear) then it should be sulphured as 
follows : An air-tight place is put up, say 6 ft. by 
12 ft. according to demand and from 6 ft. to 9 ft. 
high, with sticks across, near the top, to place the 
damp rug on, or lines to place other white woolen 
goods open upon. 

Place an iron pan on floor in centre, with from one 
to two lbs. roll brimstone in it. Put a red-hot poker 
in the brimstone to burn it. 

Hermetically close the door so that no air gets in 
and no vapor gets out. 

The fumes will play upon the goods all night, and 
when opened in the morning you will find them 
bleached white. 

Now this rug is treated on the back the same as 
those that did not require bleaching. That is to 
say, if the back is hard, dissolve two parts alum and 
one part salt together and rub this in, and if when 
dry it is still hard, repeat it until it is soft. 

To rub it with pumice stone or draw the back over 
the edge of a board will help it. 

The following is also good : Two parts of alum 
and one part salt are dissolved and a little flour 
and whitening added, and rubbed in; then place 
the wool part on trestle steps to dry. The air is 
better than sun or heat for this. When the back is 
dry, turn over or hang up to dry the wool, and 
if the back is not soft enough, pumice stone it, and 
if not soft then, go over the back again with the 
above liquor. Finish by combing up. 



34 



SPOTS FROM NEW GOODS. 

Often on the first time wearing, the misfortune 
occurs that goods get dirt on them in some particu- 
lar place. 

First. — To remove this, put a cloth, several times 
double, under and use cold water and hard soap, 
with nail brush It should be done on the end of a 
sleeve board or on end of finger so the wet is con- 
fined to as small a portion as possible, and make it 
no wetter than required. The cloth under will 
catch the dirt that goes through. Rub upper part 
dry, so it does not run. If any mark is left after, 
use crumb of bread. 

Second. — Crumb of bread alone will sometimes 
take it out. Cut the top or bottom of loaf off, one 
inch thick. Cut this again into four to eight pieces. 
Hold the crust part and rub with the crumb part, 
using one piece after another till clean. I once did 
so to a drab coat and with one loaf of bread cleaned 
it all over; but there were no stains on it, or grease, 
only dirt. 

Third. — Bran can be used for it by well rubbing 
on, but it makes more or less mess. 

Fourth. — Ink eraser tablet will often do it very 
well, by using the sand side first and the rubber 
after. 

Fifth. — Where the four foregoing fail because of 
its being fixed too firmly, add a little spot liquor as 
per directions to No. 1. 

Sixth. — If on silk of delicate tint, use sulphuric 
ether, in small quantities, with directness to the spot 
and wipe off with damp cloth. If it leaves a mark 
get a bowl of boiling water and hold it over. The 
steam often removes it. If it still shows, then use 
one of the dry formulas from two to four. 

Seventh.— In place of water, benzine or alcohol can 
be used, but as these scatter so — it is not so desirable. 
I have remedied this, in a measure, by placing small 



35 

crumb of bread outside of the spot, which absorbed 
it so it did not spread so much. 

Before quitting the cleaning and scouring depart- 
ment, I want to say, that some black clothes after 
they are cleaned show faded on shoulders, etc., 
others are whitish and bare on the edges and button- 
holes so that it does not look good to pass. 

To remedy this, boil one pound chip logwood in 
one gallon water till reduced to one-half gallon, then 
add one-half ounce bluestone. It will now be very 
dark brown, drop in powdered sal soda or ammonia 
till it turns black on stirring, then add about one- 
half ounce dissolved dextrine or one five-cent bottle 
of mucilage, this will keep it from rubbing off. Put 
in stone jar for use, as it will keep a long time. 
There is no copperas in it, and it is this that turns 
logwood brown. In bad spots discharged by urine, 
etc., warm it and drop on concentrated. For the 
fades, add one part to four parts boiling water. It 
can then be reduced still farther for the remainder 
of the garment to prevent one part looking different 
to the other. Cotton specks and a lot of imper- 
fections can be cured this way. In pressing up with 
damp cloths it will come off some, but when pressed 
looks well and wears well. I know it takes time, 
but would rather lose time and please a customer 
than have him dissatisfied and tell his friends what 
a poor hand I was. If not revived as here shown, 
many think it actually was made that way by the 
process used, as they do not notice imperfections so 
much before cleaning as they do after. 

DYEING DEPAKTMENT— CLEANSING OF 
GOODS. 

All goods require more or less cleaning before 
dyeing. Even white goods that may not appear 
dirty are safe to be cleaned, especially if they are a 
bleached white, as the bleach is often sulphur, and 



36 



if not destroyed with a soap bath prevents the color 
being as good as it otherwise would be. 

A warm soap liquor, with just enough soda to 
soften it, is all that is required. Work them through 
this for a short time, then wash out in two warm waters, 
and let lie in a sour bath, made with warm water 
and just enough sulphuric acid to taste a trifle tart. 
Let lie in this as open as possible for one quarter 
hour. This will clean and brighten them for the 
dye. If very dirty or spotted lay them on a board 
and scrub all out before they get to the soap bath. 

I object to hot soap and soda baths for cleansing, 
as it not only injures the goods in making them 
tender, but fills them full of creases, so that they 
never look well again. The only case where it is 
allowable is when an article is much faded in one 
part and not in another, and it is desirable to try 
and draw off as much of the old color as possible.. 

Nicholson's or alkali blues are liable to go this 
way ; in this case give them plenty of room so they 
will not crease too much. If the faded blue is for 
any other color, as dark green or seal brown, it is 
better not to put it in a sour bath, as that would 
bring up the color again. 

TO LEVEL COLORS BEFORE DYEING, AND 
HOW TO HANDLE GOODS. 

The acid bath referred to will do this to some 
extent, but if much faded boil in a bath of from one 
to two ounces of tartar and one ounce sulphuric 
acid for one third hour ; this is good for light colors. 

Dark colors can have one ounce blue stone and two 
ounces sulphuric acid, or one chrome and two of 
acid. This quantity is intended for one dress. 
Gents' clothes do not get this, as they are dyed dark 
enough to mostly cover in brown or navy, and if 
much faded only dye them black. Through every 
operation the goods pass see that they are properly 



37 

handled ; that is, kept in an open floating condition. 
Do not have too much in one bath to crease up, and 
when lifted out of dye bath put goods into cold 
water quite open, and out of this spread openly on 
rail or horse. 

I wish to impress this most effectually, as many lift 
the goods from boiling baths on a stick, and so put it 
on a rail or peg all in folds ; this will produce creases 
that will be so fixed with the heat that it will be like 
a crack in a board — bound to show. If it appears 
to come out in the finishing it will show again in 
time, and men's clothes never will press good if so 
served. Goods for brown, navy and black require 
cleansing just the same as for light colors, only they 
do not get soured. Some boil them in soda and 
think it all right. The mistake is, many fall into a 
rut of doing things from seeing others do it, never 
for a moment asking themselves, " Is this the best 
way?" If they considered a moment they would 
see that the boiling in is not only a waste of time, 
but is an absolute injury to the goods, as only the 
surface is softened ; the dirt and grease is still in the 
texture of men's thick clothes. This is easily proven, 
and to do so, when dry, take the parts that were 
very dirty and rub them up a bit ; the dirt will come 
to the surface. 

Moreover, so much is generally stuffed into this 
boiling soda that it gets so creased up, that in thin 
tweed and cloth made-up goods it is quite impossible 
to get the creases pressed out, and coats get all out 
of shape by such usage. Goods get enough creased 
in the proper manner of dyeing without such cruel 
treatment. 

Silks and satin goods, except very soft, should 
not be rubbed and then very softly for two reasons : 
1st, they are liable to fray ; 2d, they get too full of 
creases. If thick silk or satin gets badly creased 
its appearance is forever marred. The proper way is 
to lay them on a table and scrub all the bad parts, then 



38 



give them a soak for a time in good soap or soap 
and soda, as the case may be ; then every now and 
then open out all through and let lay a time longer, 
then wash off in two warm waters. The soap liquor 
being good can be used afterwards for woolen 
goods. 

COLOR MIXING. 

By this is meant taking the primary colors and 
from them producing the shades required. It has 
never been questioned but that the writer was the 
first to get all the colors and shades required from 
anilines. In two distinct classes, viz. : Neutral 
anilines from sweet or neutral colors, for cotton 
and cotton-mixed goods, straw, etc. ; and acid ani- 
lines of the primary colors for all colors and shades 
to dye in an acid bath, fast and bright without pre- 
vious mordanting. I spent the best part of three 
years in laboratory experiments, and published the 
results in the various textile publications at the 
time. I also made pattern books — No. 1, of all the 
cotton goods ; No. 2, cotton and wool mixed ; No. 
3, wool; No. 4, straw; No. 5, leather, etc. 

From four colors I got about five thousand shades, 
all useful for one purpose or another. These achieve- 
ments were copied and circulated all over the world. 
This brought me so many inquiries that I had to 
start in and make the compound colors for sale, as 
in most cases they preferred to have it made to 
hand than to follow instructions how to make it. 
The manufacturers of new goods were benefited 
most by the inventions, as they were able to discard 
the use of other drugs and chemicals and dye all 
wool, worsted, silk, shoddy, etc., in one bath, and 
by running cotton and wool mixed goods through 
Bird's Patent Aniline Mordant for about one-fourth 
hour the cotton and wool could be dyed in one bath 
without washing off or using tin liquor. This 



39 

thoroughly revolutionized the practice of dyeing in 
the large mills of the East. 

From then till now very little of cotton, or cotton 
and mixed goods, are taken in by the garment 
dyer, as the old way was too much trouble, and the 
new way only a few have found out. Hence the 
need of this work, which I have been pressed so 
much to bring out, but for want of time had to 
delay until now. At the popular price at which this 
will be sold I trust everyone will be able to buy it, 
and will find it a great labor saving, and, in many 
cases, at less cost than the old way. I will follow 
the same course here as in the cleaning department, 
viz., use the plainest language in the simplest form, 
so that the whole matter can be comprehended easily. 

A study will be made, also, to condense all the 
plain talk into just as many words as is absolutely 
required to make it clear and plain, and no more, 
as it is not the writer's wish to produce a work to 
impress you by its size, but " rather by its 
usefulness." 

NEUTRAL COLORS— WHAT ARE THEY? 

They are the colors that require no acid, argols, 
bluestone or other mordant ingredients to prepare 
the silk or wool to take up the color, but will in 
warm, hot or boiling bath take up the color as bright 
or brighter than by the aid of mordants. 

The following is a list of the most useful : 
Magenta, fuchsine, rosine, three names for much 
the same article, and dyes a bluish shade of red, 
Violet or Purple. The name indicates the shade 
produced. The dye can be bought on the blue, red 
or medium shade, to suit your purpose. 

Green: In this there is not so much difference in the 
shades as in the names by which it is called. It does 
not, indeed, matter which shade you get — the so-called 
blue, or yellow shade, as it is easy to change the 



40 



yellow shade and make bluer with the least bit of 
violet, or the blue with a little yellow (chrysidine). 
The important point is to get the strongest and 
brighest color. A good brilliant crystal is as good 
color as any of them. 

Yellow: Chrysidine is, no doubt, as strong a 
yellow as any, and for mixing purposes I prefer it. 
There are the yellow and red shades; the yellow 
is to be preferred, as it is a cleaner color. 

Blue: Methyl blue is the only direct blue made 
that is neutral. This I never use ; it is too dear, at 
about $4 per pound. Eight ounces brilliant green 
and twelve ounces six B. Hoffman Violet mixed, 
will produce about the same thing, so I recommend 
this, as it is less than half the price of the former 
and will do just the same work. It is very disagree- 
able to mix, as it gets in eyes, nose, mouth, etc., 
badly ; but those who want it ready mixed can order 
from me at $2 per lb., as I have a machine for this 
work. When mixed I call it Victoria Blue, as it is 
a right royal color. 

Bismarck Brown: This is so generally known 
that nothing need be said, except that there are 
several kinds of it; some being on the yellow- 
shade dyeing, as the name implies, a lighter shade 
than the red one. 

From the four colors named I will now produce 
the colors most useful to the garment dyer. 

The colors will be taken in the order given. 



FUCHSINE— COMPOUND COLORS FROM. 

MAROON. 

3 parts Fuchsine, 
1 part Red Bismarck. 

CLARET. 

3 parts Fuchsine, 
1 part 4 B. Violet. 



41 



CARDINAL. 

3 parts Fuchsine, 
1 part Chrysoidine. 

BROWN. 

A red shade can be made as follows : — 

Fuchsine, 1 part ; 
Chrysoidine, 1 part ; 
Bismarck, 1 part ; 
Green, 1 part. 

Regulate this for any shade of brown. 



VIOLET— COMPOUND COLOES FROM. 

PLUM COLOR. 

6 parts Violet, 

1 part Red Bismarck, 

1 part Green. 

The Bismarck is to darken it ; less of that and more of the green 
will produce a bluer shade. 

WINE COLORS. 

6 parts Fuchsine, 

1 part Violet, 

1 part Chrysoidine. 

If fuchsine and violet alone are used, a fine bluish color is 
produced. 

OLD ROSE. 

Use wine color very sparingly, and vary proportions to suit 
shade required. 



YELLOW— COMPOUND COLOES FEOM. 

OLD GOLD. 

32 parts Chrysoidine, 
1 part Green. 

OLD GOLD-DARKER. 

Add 2 oz. yellow Bismarck to old gold as above. 

YELLOW BRONZE. 

8 parts Chrysoidine, 

2 parts Yellow Bismarck, 

2 parts Green. 



42 



OLIVE. 
Salne as yellow bronze, but use 3 parts green. 

DARK BRONZE. 



4 parts Chrysoidine, 
4 parts Red Bismarck, 
2 parts Green. 



BLUE— COMPOUNDS. 

Victoria Blue, alone produces a full rich shade, fairly fast ; to 
make quite fast, see hereafter. 

NAVY BLUE. 

3 parts Victoria Blue, 

1 part 6 B. Hoffman Violet. 

PEACOCK BLUE. 

3 parts Victoria Blue, 
1 part Green, 
Or use other proportions for other shades. 



BROWN— COMPOUND COLORS. 

GOLDEN BROWN. 

4 parts Red Bismarck, 
1 part Chrysoidine, 
1 part Green. 

MEDIUM BROWN. 

4 parts Red Bismarck, 
1 part Violet, 
1 part Green. 

SEAL BROWN. 

6 parts Red Bismarck, 
IK parts 6 B.Violet, 
1 part Green. 

TERRA COTTA. 

1 part Fuchsine, 

2 parts Chrysoidine. 

MAHOGANY. 

1 part Fuchsine, 

1 part Red Bismarck. 



43 



GREEN— COMPOUNDS. 

MEDIUM GREEN. 

8 parts Green, 

1 part Violet, 

1 part Yellow Bismarck. 

DARK GREEN. 

4 parts Green, 
1 part 6 B. Violet, 
1 part Red Bismarck. 

Having given a general outline of compound 
colors, it will be easy for any person to alter the 
proportions to suit any shade required. 

If any particular shade is required, send pattern 
on ; it can be matched, and the color supplied, with 
instructions for use. 



COTTON AND MIXED GOODS— PEOCESS OF 
MORDANTING. 

All of the neutral colors, as stated, will dye on 
silk and wool, but on cotton, or cotton and mixed 
goods, a mordant is required. 

I will here give the old way of mordanting, which 
I have only three faults to find with, viz., time, 
trouble and expense. 

For one hundred pounds goods, or say thirty-five 
dresses, scald out fifteen pounds Sicily sumac; let 
goods remain in this in as open manner as possible 
all night. In the morning let drain, then enter cold 
bath, in which three pounds muriate of tin or the 
half quantity of crystals of tin is added; well handle 
goods in this for half hour, let drain, and then wash 
off in two waters. 

NEW WAY TO MORDANT. 

To one hundred pounds cotton, or cotton and 
mixed goods, or thirty-five dresses, scald four pounds 



44 



Bird's Patent Aniline Mordant, at twenty-five cents 
pound. Let boil or scald for half hour in four gal- 
lons water. 

Put piece of muslin or flannel over a sieve, or use 
a hair sieve, and strain the liquor off from the 
grounds. Now make bath large enough to open 
goods out in. For all cotton it does not matter how 
hot, but for goods of cotton and wool only, have it 
gentle hand-heat; otherwise the mordant will go on 
to the wool, which is not required. 

For mixed goods, half an hour will answer ; lift 
and drain. 

If they are for different colors, sort them out. 
The light colors of mixed goods require to be dyed 
first. 

DARK COLORS— MORDANTING. 

After they come out of the mordant handle them 
for half an hour in the iron liquor you use, for 
black silk; this will make them a slate color. Wash 
off from this twice ; this makes the goods dark, so 
they will not require so much color. Now dye same 
as for light colors ; on this mordant and iron. Log- 
wood, or other woods, will work on, for very dark 
colors, in with the aniline colors. 

The light and dark colors are now fit for dyeing. 

COTTON AND COTTON-MIXED GOODS. 

Dye Bath. — Take ten per cent. Glauber salts and 
what colors desired. Commence to color at 100° or 
110° F. and handle for one-quarter hour at this heat 
to give the cotton a chance to dye to shade, then 
raise the heat to dye the wool. All cotton can be 
dyed at 150° to 200° F. Goods are not washed off 
from the mordant, but dress goods are best washed 
in cold water till clean after they are dyed. This 
process is followed for all colors in mixed goods. 



45 



TO FIX ANILINE COLORS ON MIXED 
GOODS. 

On New Goods. — They get no more fixing than 
what the mordant does ; but people are more exact- 
ing from the garment dyer than from the dry goods 
store and expect it to be faster than new. Take 
about one pound best starch, make a good clean 
starch liquor, strain it so as to avoid all thick parts. 
At a gentle hand heat all the dresses can be worked 
in this; drain, then dry. About one-half ounce 
starch to each dress will fix it. This does not 
make it too stiff, neither will it daub or gloss it; if 
done cold it may, but warm it will not. Even blacks 
are improved by it; they can be done at a good 
heat. A punch in this liquor is good both as a 
wash off and stiffening. 

COLOR MIXING FOR FAST ACID ANILINE 

COLORS. 

For this purpose the acid colors are used ; that is, 
colors that will not take on alone, but must have 
acid to cause thern to lift or take on. 

At first it was the neutral colors that prevailed in 
anilines ; the chief fault with them was they faded 
too much. Gradually the acid colors appeared, and 
have kept on the steady march until we have them 
in about every shade of straight color, so that I was 
not so far out ten years ago, when, writing on this 
subject, I expressed the opinion that the time would 
no doubt be here when all colors would be dyed fast 
with anilines. Few scarlets are dyed with cochineal 
now, and even indigo blue has found its rival, and 
brilliant black is not beaten in cost, labor, fastness 
to sun and air or any other test. 

None of the colors here used for producing com- 
pound shades, rub or crock at all. 



46 



COMPOUNDS FROM ACID PRIMROSE. 

That very pretty shade of greenish yellow is 
produced from this : — 

30 parts Primrose, 
1 part Acid Green. 

APPLE GREEN. 

1 part Primrose, 
1 part Acid Green. 

OLD GOLD. 

30 parts Strong Yellow. 
1 part Acid Green. 

ACID BRONZE. 

10 parts Strong Yellow. 
1 part Acid Green. 

ACID OLIVE. 

6 parts Strong Yellow. 
1 part Acid Green. 

DARK ACID OLIVE. 

1 part Yellow Acid Orange. 
1 part Acid Green. 

VERY DARK ACID OLIVE. 

1 part Acid Yellow Orange. 
1 part Acid Bismarck. 
1 part Acid Green. 

Any of the above can be darkened with Indigo Induline, Nigro- 
sine or Indigotine, worked in the same bath. 

ORANGE-RED SHADE. 
Used for deeper shades than the other. Per pound, $0.50. 

ACID REDS. 

Scarlets, 3 B. or 3 R., is used by different houses for the same 
shade of bluish tint. 

1 B. and 1 R. are the yellowest shades made. The 3 B. is the 
most desirable to keep in stock, as it is easy to add a little yellow 
shade of orange to it, if required fiery. 2 B. is the medium shade. 
These scarlets equal cochineal in brilliancy. Per pound, $0.50. 



« 



CARDINAL. 

Of this color I believe none will compare to the one I sell in 
brilliancy and clearness of tone ; it dyes quite evenly and keeps its 
color good ; is on the bluish tint. If required bluer, add 6 B. acid 
violet, by which about the same shade can be got as with acid 
magenta, at much less cost. Per pound, $0.75. 

WINE COLOR. 

Darker than Cardinal, and can be used in place of Archil at con- 
siderable saving. $1.00 per pound. 

GARNET. 

This is the darkest shade of red made ; like all the foregoing is 
a straight color. $0.75 per pound. 

DARK GREEN. 

10 parts Acid Green. 
3 parts Strong Yellow Green. 
3 parts Indigotine. $1.25. 

DARKER GREEN. 
Add 3 parts Induline or Nigrosine to Dark Green. $1.25. 

VERY DARK GREEN (BOTTLE). 

Same as above, only darker, with Acid Black instead of Induline. 
$1.25. 

BRILLIANT BLUE. 

A first-class blue can be made with 2 parts 6 B. Acid Violet, 1 
part acid green ; this in one bath produces about the color of 4 B. 
alkali or Nicholson Blue. On colored goods this dyes a splendid 
light navy. $1.50. 

LIGHT NAYY. 

Add Induline to Brilliant Blue ; for dark navy add Indigo, Indi- 
gotine or Nigrosine. 

ACID PEACOCK BLUE. 

2 parts Acid Green. 
1 part 6 B. Acid Yiolet. 
This can be proportioned for any shade of peacock. 

ACID CADET BLUE. 

1 part Acid Green. 

2 parts 6 B. Acid Yiolet. 

ACID DARK NAVY. 

Fast Acid Navy, darkened if required, with Brilliant Black. 
This Fast Acid Navy is Indigo shade and quite as fast. $1.50. 



48 



ACID MAROOK. 

12 parts Fast Red or Cardinal. 
2 parts 6 B. Acid Violet. 
2 parts Orange. $ 1.00. 



ACID CLARET. 

12 parts Fast Red or Cardinal. 
4 parts 6 B. Acid Violet. $1.00. 



WINE COLOR. 

14 parts Fast Red. 
2 parts 6 B. Acid Violet. $1.00. 



ACID ANILINES, SUITABLE FOR GARMENT 
DYERS. 

The following list will be about all that is required 
to keep in stock. From these, by following instruc- 
tions on color mixing, anything can be produced. 

The colors here recommended ought to be kept 
by any good color house at about the price named. 
I sell them at this price. 

By following the rules here given, good, even and 
fast results can be obtained See that the goods are 
thoroughly clean and washed off, as instructed in 
the Dyeing Department, after the warm sour 
bath. From this sour bath lift them into the 
bath of color you require. Let this be just hand 
heat, handle in for several turns, then lift and add a 
little more color and some acid ; handle again, raising 
the heat. This should be repeated two or three times 
in order to get even results, about 10 per cent. Glauber 
salts are used to 1 per cent, of anilines ; this can go 
in at the start, but not the whole of aniline or acid, 
if good, even results are expected. This is why, on 
old and faded goods, uneven results are had that 
the color bath is made too strong and too much acid 
used and the heat too much to start at. 

New Goods. — Even these would be better to get 
half of both color and acid at the start, as the color 



49 

gets into the fibre better. But, as in new goods, the 
facilities are such that the goods can be opened 
rapidly unless the} 7 are thick it is not so imperative, 
as worsted yarns, etc., are dyed all the time in the 
same bath at the spring. 

THE MOST USEFUL ACID COLORS. 

Canary or primrose. No more acid should be 
used with this than just enough to lift it, as the 
name implies. It dyes a light greenish yellow of 
much beauty. Acetic acid is much better than 
sulphuric for this color. Price per pound, $1.00. 

STRONG YELLOW— EXTRA. 

A full, bold color, four times stronger than 
canary, but not so greenish, is good for silk or wool, 
as all of the colors here named are. It will answer 
all purposes. Per pound, $0.75. 

ORANGE— YELLOW SHADE. 

This makes a deeper shade than strong yellow; 
used for window draperies, etc., and for olives and 
bronzes ; also, for dark greens and yellow shades of 
brown, etc. Per pound, $0.75. 

Cardinal and wine color will work together for 
shade between them, as scarlet and cardinal will for 
mid shade. In like manner, wine and garnet can be 
used for all mid shades. Plum color and prune can 
be got from garnet by adding indigotine to shade. 
Per pound, $1.00. 

ACID GREEN. 

This is a more brilliant color than the greens that 
will not work with acid ; as it will not crock ; it 
should be used on woolen goods. It is rather on 



50 



the yellow shade, which gives it life. If required on 
the bluish shade, just a little 6 B acid violet will do 
it. As previously shown, peacock, olive, bronze 
and bottle green are obtained with this color. 
Per pound, $1.25. 

BRILLIANT BLUE. 

For a direct color in one bath I know of nothing 
that will give better results, producing a pure blue, 
not too red or too blue. Can be made redder with 
6 B violet, or greener with acid green. Per pound, 
$1.50. 

JSTAVY-BLUE ECLIPSE. 

All other brands are discarded for this one, for 
the following reasons : — 

First. — This does not smut or crock. 

Second. — It will dye evenly. 

Third. — Is a true indigo shade. 

Fourth. — Will wear well. 

Fifth. — Is very strong, therefore cheap. 

Per pound, $1.50. 

SCARLETS, 

For wool, are made in three shades, yellowish or 
fiery, denoted by different makers as Y. R. B., all 
which stand for the same shade. 

Medium denoted by BB or RR ; by others, as the 
most sensible, 2 B or 2 R. 

Bluish denoted by BBB, or RRR, or 3 B or 3 R, 

They are all as strong one as the other, although 
the last named looks the strongest, from the fact of 
its being the bluest, and is mostly used. 

They will all dye as bright as cochineal at much 
less cost, and, like cochineal, will dye from delicate 
pink to full scarlet. Per pound, $0.50. 



51 



CARDINAL. 

This color is now far superior to fast red or 
rocceline, as it is quite strong and much finer 
shade, and, what is of great importance, dyes quite 
evenly, and does not crock. 

It will dye equally well on silk or wool. Per 
pound, §0.75. 

P. S. — This color can be used in place of acid 
magenta, if blued to shade with acid violet. 

IEDIGOTINE. 

The coloring matter of indigo extracted and so 
treated that it is as strong as aniline colors, and is 
put up in the same form so that it can be used like 
it. Is mostly used for darkening olives, bronzes, 
greens and browns. Per pound, §2.25. 

INDULIKE. 

Is very useful for dyeing grays, Goods so treated 
are better than those dyed with archil and blue. 
Drabs can be obtained from it by adding strong 
yellow, acid Bismarck, etc., to shade, it works evenly; 
but for such light colors, quite clean, and not sun- 
burnt or faded goods, are required. For light shades 
dissolve colors separately, and add sparingly, to 
prevent getting too dark a shade. Per pound, $0.75. 

Yellow with it makes olive. Acid Bismarck 
makes bronze, varying the proportion to suit. 

As it is a mild color, it can be used to darken any 
dark color. 

ACID BROWNS. 

ACID GOLDEN BROWN. 

5 parts Acid Bismarck. 

1 part Acid Green. 

ACID MEDIUM BROWN. 

6 parts Acid Bismarck. 

2 parts Acid Green. 



52 



!NIGROSINE. 

This is on the same order as indnline, but is 
redder and deeper in shade. Per pound, $0.75. 

ACID MULBERRY. 

10 parts Fast Red or Cardinal. 
3 parts Acid Bismarck. 
3 parts 6 B. Acid Yiolet. 

Per pound, $1.00. 

ACID PLUM COLOR. 

Add three parts acid green to last in place of 
Bismarck. A straight, very fast and strong color I 
now have. Per pound, $1.25. 

If expense is no consideration, archil can be used 
in place of fast red, as it will produce good results 
on much faded and worn goods for any shade of 
red. 

As indigo paste or indigotine will produce good 
effects on covering all bad goods for blue green, 
olive, etc. 

For such work less aniline can be used in the 
same bath with archil or indigo. 



ACID BISMARCK 

Is a good shade of leather brown ; will mix with 
garnet and navy blue for making many shades of 
dark brown. Per pound, $0.75. 



ACID VIOLET 

Will stand much better than Hoffman or neutral 
violets ; for compound colors its use has already been 
shown. Per pound, $1.75. 



53 

FOR BRILLIANT BLACK. 

(See particulars, page 72). 

From the above acid colors an ordinary dyer 
should be able to get any desired shade. ¥e can, 
if desired, send any color to match pattern sent. 

ALKALI OR NICHOLSON BLUES. 

There are many shades of these, but, as brilliant 
blue will dye in one bath, these are not so much 
used now, as they require three baths to dye them 
perfectly. 

First. — One part color, three parts soda. Bring 
this up to a boil, handling goods all of the time for 
one half hour. 

Second. — Take out from this into cold water. 
This is not done by many and they wonder why it 
gets spotted and striped at times ; it is because going 
direct from the dye bath into the acid more of the 
liquor is held in one part than the other, and pro- 
duces the stripes, and the scum rests on parts which 
the acid fixes so fast it will not move. The wash 
in cold water removes this. After the cold wash it 
is only a gray color. 

Third. — Make up a warm water, add enough sul- 
phuric acid to just taste a little sharp. Handle in 
this quite open, it will spring or develop it to a good 
blue. The lightest shade of this one, called " baby 
blue," is 6 B. The darkest shades are guernsey. 
They are all dyed in the same way; 4 B. is the 
medium shade and most kept in stock. 4 B., per 
pound, $2.75. 

Silk and wool are both dyed in the same way, 
except that silk is only dyed at the spring. 

This class of blues are called fast. As far as smut- 
ing goes they are fast, but will fade quite light. 



54 



They staud washing very well as far as this, the 
color considerably lightens by it, as it loses the acid 
that developed it ; and has, therefore, to get another 
acid bath after the soap has been well washed out in 
warm water. If, however, other colors are in com- 
bination with it, that will not stand acid, alum may 
be used in its place ; in which case it will require to 
stand in the liquor longer than in a sulphuric acid 
bath. 

NEUTRAL OR SWEET COLORS. 

I will name those that ought principally to be 
kept in stock. No acid should be used with them. 
Will dye on silk and wool without a first mordant. 
Cotton, or cotton and mixed goods, must be mor- 
danted. See Mordants. 

SAFFRANINE. 

Use for cotton and silk. Pinks will take with- 
out a mordant on both, but will be faster on the 
cotton with a mordant of tin. See Mordants. 
There are three shades of saffranine, from bluish 
to yellowish. Per pound, $1.50. 

EOSINE. 

More on the salmon shade of pink. Dyed in the 
same way. Per pound, $1.75. 

PHLOXINE. 

More bluish. A fine color, dyed in same way. 
Is more bluish, and by far the finest pink out. Will 
dye on silk and wool with alum, but is little used on 
the latter. On silk, feathers, and flowers it is much 
used. On cotton it requires the usual mordanting. 
Almost the same shade can be gotten with the 
bluest shade of cotton scarlet, which can be dyed 



55 

with alum in it, only as a mordant. This costs less 
but is not so fast, as, if water touches it, it runs. 

CHRYSOIDINE. 

Will dye on wool or silk, but is mostly used for 
cotton and mixed goods, which require mordant. 
See Mordants. It is used in place of fustic and 
turmeric. Per pound, $0.75. 

BRILLIANT GREEN. 
The best of all neutral greens. Per pound, $1.50. 

BISMARCK BROWN. 

Some new goods are dyed this direct color, but it 
is mostly used for shading purposes by garment 
dyers. Per pound, $0.75. 

BROWN (MEDIUM). 

A compound color (see compounds) ; will dye on 
wool or silk ; requires mordant for cotton and wool 
mixed. Can be made lighter with chrysoidine or 
Bismarck, and darker with seal brown. Per pound, 
$1.00. 

SEAL BROWN. 

Will color silk and wool, but cotton and cotton 
and wool mixed must be mordanted. See Mor- 
dants. Per pound, $1.25. 

FUCHSINE. 

Will dye wool and silk, cotton and cotton and 
wool mixed must be mordanted. Chrysoidine used 
with it will make goods cardinal Per pound, $1.25. 



56 



PONCEAU. 

Deeper yellow shade than fuchsine; in other 
respects the same and dyed the same. A strong 
color. Will mix with Bismarck for yellower shade, 
and with violet for bluer shades, or all three for 
dark shades of maroon and garnet. Per pound, 
$1.25. 

Wine color and garnet can be had ready mixed, if 
desired. Per pound, $1.25. 

COTTON COLORS DYED WITH ALUM IN 
ONE BATH. 

As many garment dyers take in cotton yarns, jute, 
etc., to dye, I will give a few examples of the 
cheapest and quickest way of dyeing these. 

ONE DIP COTTON YARN DYEING 
ORANGE. 

Either yellow or red shade (yellow is preferred) is 
dyed in a bath at a little under the boil. To 100 
pounds goods start with five pounds orange, 10 
pounds Glauber salts, 4 to 5 pounds alum; work 
half hour, drain, wring and dry. Second and follow- 
ing baths, 2 pounds orange, 10 Glauber salts, 4 
alum. Cotton orange, per pound, $0.50. 

Note. — None of these cheap alum colors must be 
washed off, or the color would partly go. 

BLUE— 100-POUND COTTON. 

6 ounces cotton blue, 10 pounds Glauber salts, 
6 pounds alum; work to shade, drain, wring and 
dry. Second lot takes only 3J ounces blue to pro- 
duce a good shade of color. Will dye silk a splen- 
did color with sulphuric acid from the pale shade to 
light navy. Per pound, $1.75. 



57 



SCARLET 

Dyed the same as orange. "Will dye pink and 
scarlet on silk with acid. Cotton scarlet, per pound, 
$0.75. 

COTTON PINK. 

Dyed same as orange, only use from 2 to 4 ounces 
and 3 pounds Glauber salts and 1 pound alum. 
Send shade required, as there are seven shades. 
Per pound, $1.00. 

SHRIMP COLOR. 

This is obtained with the scarlet and orange. 
Dyed same as pink. 

CARDINAL. 

Dyed same as orange, only use cotton cardinal. 
Per pound, $1.00. 

BROWN. 

4 pounds Cotton Brown, 4 pounds Alum, 10 pounds Glauber 
Salt ; second lot, 3 pounds Brown, 4 pounds Alum, 10 pounds 
Glauber Salt ; third lot, 2 pounds Color ; fourth and after lots, 
IK pounds Color, 4 pounds Alum, 10 pounds Glauber Salt. 

Per pound, $0.75. 

This colors much darker than Bismarck, and colors 
quite evenly ; is fairly fast as regards smutting, but, 
like the rest, w T ill not stand wetting. The same 
remarks refer to the following seal brown. 



SEAL BROWN— CUTCH SHADE. 

First lot, 5 pounds Cotton Seal, 5 pounds Alum, 10 pounds 
Glauber Salt ; second lot, drop 1 pound Color ; third lot, drop 1 
pound Color ; fourth lot, drop 1 pound Color ; fifth lot and after, 
2 pounds Color. 4 pounds Alum and 10 pounds Glauber Salt is 
used in each lot. 

Cotton seal, per pound, $1.00. 



58 



COTTON MAROON. 

Dyed with cotton cardinal, darkened with cotton 
brown. 

COTTON GARNET. 

Dyed same as cardinal ; darken the cardinal with 
cotton seal. 

BRONZE AND OLIVE. 

All shades can be got with chrysoidine, yellow, 
orange, Bismarck and green, with alum and Glauber 
salts, varying the ingredients to suit your shade. 
All the above are as bright as any colors on silk or 
wool, and will wear well, but will not bear wetting, 
as they run easily. 

Piece goods that get stiffening enough to hold the 
color can be dyed by this method at a cheap rate. 
The colors in awnings, bed ticks and lots of things 
are dyed this way, but they ought not to be. 



JUTE DYEING. 

Unbleached jute will take up any of the neutral 
colors, without mordant, dyed at about a spring 
heat. Four ounces of many of the colors will dye 
50 pounds. 

The acid colors can be used if about 4 pounds 
alum to 100 pounds of yarn is used in with the 
color; no acid should be used with jute, as it soon 
rots it. 

BLEACHED JUTE DYEING. 

Bleached jute is used to imitate linen. To dye 
this it requires first to be mordanted and dyed same 
as cotton. See Mordants. 



59 



FLAX DYEING. 

Follow same instructions for mordanting and 
dyeing as for cotton. 

STRAW DYEING. 

I claim to be the first to introduce the one-dip 
dyeing of straw, and have thereby helped to build 
up several large firms by learning them this quick 
and easy process. In their cases I made and sold 
the colors that required compounding, they prefer- 
ring to buy it so for the sake of conformity. 

For the first time I here publish the method, or 
to be more exact, the quantities, of each color that 
was used for each shade. The reader can mix it 
according to the proportions given, or can send 
here and get it prepared at the prices given. 

SILVER GRAY. 

30 parts Induline, 
1 part New Cardinal. 

It will be understood that in every case a small 
quantity will produce a light shade, and larger 
quantity darker, so that fully six good* shades can be 
got from one color. Per pound, §1.00. 

DARK GRAY. 

Same as silver gray, with one ounce indigotine 
added. Per pound, $1.00. 



LIGHT DRAB. 

20 parts Induline, 

1 part New Cardinal, 

2 parts Strong Yellow, 
1 part Acid Bismarck. 



Per pound, $1.00. 



60 



DARK DRAB. 

20 parts Induline, 
2 parts New Cardinal, 
2 parts Acid Bismarck. 

Per pound, $1.00. 

STONE COLOR. 
Silver gray and dark gray in equal proportions, 

LIGHT SLATE. 

30 parts Nigrosine, 
1 part New Cardinal, 
1 part Acid Bismarck. 



Per pound, $1.00. 

DARK SLATE. 

15 parts Nigrosine, 
1 part New Cardinal, 
1 part Acid Brown, 
1 part Indigotine. 

Per pound, $1.10. 

ECRU. 

On top of mordant, chrysoidine in small quantity 
will produce this shade. 

BEIGE. 

On top of mordant, give yellow, nigrosine, and 
cardinal, each very sparingly to shade. 

CADET BLUE. 

On top of mordant, color with 4 R. alkali blue, 
wash oil in slightly acid water. Red shade navy 
blue may be used instead of alkali blue. 



61 



ECLECTIC BLUE. 

On top of mordant, color with fast greenish blue. 
Per pound, $1.25. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Per pound, $1.50. 

All the above colors, as, indeed, all light colors, 
require a mordant. 

The best in all respects is patent aniline mordant, 
as it is clean, bright and cheap. 

PRIMROSE OR CANARY. 

By some, this is dyed with picric and little acid ; 
have seen men's hands badly poisoned by it; 
besides it does not keep an even color long if the 
damp gets to it, I therefore recommend aniline 
primrose for it. Per pound, $1.00. 

APPLE GREEN. 

This is got by adding green to shade to aniline 
primrose. 

YELLOW. 

Straw yellow is dyed with strong yellow. Per 
pound, $0.75. 

DARK YELLOW. 

Dyed with Chrysoidine Y., darker shade with 
Chrysodine R. Per pound, $0.75. 

OLD GOLD. 

Straw yellow shaded with green ; for darker shade 
add a little Bismarck. 



62 



STRAW MORDANT FOR LIGHT COLORS. 

To 100 pounds straw take 2 pounds mordant in 
boiling water. It is a good plan to beat it up first 
into a thin paste. Boil braid in this from | to 1 
hour, according to thickness of same. Second lots 
only require 1 pound to 100. 

The mordant gives a body, brightens the color 
and holds it, beside the fact that it causes the braid 
to take a level color; no wash required from mor- 
dant. Per pound, $0.25; in barrels, $0.18 per 
pound. 

STRAW MORDANT FOR DARK COLORS. 

All tbat is required for the following colors is to 
soak the braid in boiling soda liquor till they are 
thoroughly soaked through ; from this let them 
drain, no wash is required. All the following 
colors will then take quite through the thickest 
plait. 

BRIGHT RED. 

New cardinal is by far the best for this, it will dye 
from pink to cardinal, is very clear and bright. 
Per pound, $1.00. 

DARK RED. 

Straw garnet, about 7 ounces to the bale. Per 
pound, $1.25. 

MULBERRY. 

12 parts Straw Garnet, 
2 parts Violet, 
2 parts Bismarck. 



Ready mixed, per pound, $1.25. 
PLUM COLOR. 

12 parts Straw Garnet, 
3 parts 4 B. Violet, 
2 parts Bismarck. 

Ready mixed, per pound, $1.40. 



63 



GREEK 

No better green can be used than brilliant crystal. 
Per pound, §1.50. 

PEACOCK 

3 parts Crystal Green, 
2 parts 6 B. Yiolet. 

This can be varied to any shade. Kept mixed, 
per pound, $1.75. 

BRIGHT BLUE. 

4 B. Nicholson or alkali blue is used. Brilliant 
blue produces a good shade, as it is as strong at less 
cost. Per pound, $1.75. 



NAVY BLUE. 

1 part Green, 

2 parts 4 B. Yiolet. 

Ready mixed, per pound, $1.60. Nigrosine will 
darken. Per pound, $0.75. 

YELLOW BROWN. 

8 parts Chrysoidine, 
4 parts Bismarck. 

GOLDEN BROWN. 

8 parts Chrysoidine, 
8 part Bismarck, 
1 part Green. 

BRONZE. 

10 parts Chrysoidine, 
1 part Green, or vary it to suit. 

DARK BRONZE. 

Add as much green as desired to yellow brown or 
golden brown. 



64 



DAEK NAVY. 

3 parts 6 B. Violet/ 
1 part Green. 

Brilliant aniline black will darken if required. 
~No other method will equal this for a good, solid, 
cheap color dyed easily. Per pound, $1.75. 

MEDIUM BROWK 

8 parts Bismarck, 
1 part 4 B. Violet, 
1 or two parts Green, according 
to shade required. 
Per pound, $1.00. 



Per pound, $1.00 



DARK BROWK 

6 parts Bismarck, 

1 pg^t Green, 

1 part Violet, or vary to shade. 



SEAL BROWN. 



4 parts Bismarck, 

iy 2 parts Violet, 

1 part Green, or vary to shade. 



Per pound, $1.25. 

DARK GREEK 

8 parts Green, 

2 parts 4 B. Violet, 

2 parts Chrysodine. 

Ready mixed, per pound, $1.60. This is a first- 
class color. 

BOTTLE GREEK 

8 parts Green, 

4 parts 6 B. Violet, 

2 parts Bismarck. 

Will give good results. The amount of aniline 
for dark colors is about seven ounces to a bale. 
Per pound, $1.75. 



(30 



REMARKS ON STRAW DYEING. 

The light colors can be dyed in one hour; the 
medium require longer. The dark ones are boiled 
in from one to two hours, and, in the case of thick 
braids, they are allowed to cool down and stop in 
from four to eight hours, or all night; they do not 
get uneven by this, as the color has been already 
taken up, but stopping in the liquor causes the sur- 
face to give out part of its color to the inner part, 
so that if it gets dyed through, it will soak in 
and be thoroughly colored through. 

BLACK ON STRAW. 

It is very easy to dye a black, but the sort of 
blacks some get bothers them a good bit. I think 
the following will please everyone, as it is not 
expensive at the start, and, as the bath can be used 
several times, about one-third less drugs can be used 
for after lots. 

Logwood chips (best), 9 lbs.; 

Patent mordant, 2 lbs. ; 

Turmeric, 9 oz. 

Boil two hours, steep in bath of acetate of iron at 
4° B. till black. The proportion of drugs are given, 
but, as braids differ in weight, the dyer must regu- 
late that point. 

WASHING AFTER DYEING. 

As scum, etc., gets fixed on in dyeing, all colors 
should have a good cold wash off. 

PATENT MORDANT AND SUMAC COM- 
PARED. 

Sumac has been a good servant, but for delicate 
colors it gives too much stain. Its worst feature is 
its dust. This causes much trouble to wash of, but 
can be avoided, however, by using extract of sumac. 

5 



66 



But, where the room for bulky articles is a consider- 
ation, patent mordant is preferable, and, as it is 
many times stronger, it is cheaper than sumac, and 
has very little sediment. The little it has can be 
easily strained from it, so for straw it is much 
cleaner. 

BLEACHING STRAW. 

After a soda liquor, wash oiF, and give a weak 
chloride of lime. After this, if not white enough, 
give it the sulphur chamber. 

Second. — After the soda wash off, and pass them 
into a weak muriatic warm bath and wash out. This 
will make speckled braid much cleaner at small cost. 

This acid is the mildest, and does not make it 
brittle like sulphuric. 

Third. — Salts of sorrel, used in same way. 

Fourth. — Salts of lemon, used in same way. 

Fifth. — Oxalic acid, used in same way. 

YELLOW TINT ON STRAW. 

This is green with aniline primrose, or picric 
acid, after the bleach, in the wash-off water. 

COTTON DYEING— FAST COLORS DYED 
IN SOAP. 

These new colors are useful to the garment dyer 
in case he gets theatrical work, as they will dye fast 
colors on cotton tights, etc. 

SOAP YELLOW. 

Dissolve the color and add it to a warm soap bath, 
and handle in till deep enough ; then wash in cold 
water. 

FLESH AND SHRIMP COLOR. 

Soap B. Red, dyed in the same way as yellow. 



67 

SOAP PINK 
No 4 B. red dyed in same way. 

CARDINAL. 
4 R. red dyed in same way. 

NAVY BLUE. 

There are three shades of blue. They are used 
in same way. 

SOAP GREEN. 

Soap green is made with the yellow and blue, and 
b}' varying them olive can be made. 

BROWN. 

With yellow, red and blue different shades of 
brown can be got. 

PLUM COLOR. 

This is obtained with red and blue. 

DRAB AND SLATE. 

Can be produced from yellow by adding blue or 
red, or both, to shade. 

The yare expensive colors, ranging from $1.50 to 
$2.50. For light colors they are very cheap, but for 
dark, unless there is a run on them, they are dear, 
as the bath has to be strong, but by adding a little 
every batch can be used many times. It will dye 
the shade of turkey red fast. 

They cannot be kept but a few days when dis- 
solved in a soap bath, or they will turn mouldy, so 
if you have not a run on it, it may as well be cast 
away at once after using. 



68 



ONE-DIP WOOL VEGETABLE BLACK. 

To one hundred pounds liquid extract of logwood 
add ten pounds bluestone and six pounds copperas, 
both finely powdered, well mixed; it is then ready for 
use. To color one hundred pounds of white wool, 
dissolve forty pounds of paste, add enough oxalic acid 
or sulphuric acid to turn the bath a seal brown. 

Enter the wool and boil about two hours ; if black, 
lift and wash ; if it has not oxidized or turned good 
black, add a little soda or ammonia to kill the acid ; 
this will produce a good black that will wear well. 
Second lot, twenty pounds paste; third lot and 
after, sixteen pounds paste. 

For old rags or dark colors, one-half quantity will 
do. 

Considerable of the above has been used to advan- 
tage, but the introduction of brilliant black will put 
all other methods in the shade. 



ONE-DIP VEGETABLE COTTON BLACK 

To one hundred pounds liquid extract of logwood 
add twenty pounds extract hemlock, ten pounds 
finely powdered bluestone, well mixed into paste. 
About sixty pounds of this is required to start 
first bath for coloring one hundred pounds. When 
dissolved it will be seal brown. Add just enough 
soda to make the bath good black, enter and 
bring up to boil. As soon as it is a good black 
it can be lifted and aired out, as it will jet on 
exposure deeper. It will then be well washed off. 
Garments, etc., so dyed require a good soap liquor 
to cleanse them. 

This is called a fast black, because a soap wash 
improves it if done at only hand heat. Second lot 
use forty pounds, third lot use thirty pounds, fourth 
and after lots, twenty pounds. 



69 



ONE-DIP NAVY BLUE. 

Good indigo shade can be got on cotton or mixed 
goods by using about twenty pounds of the paste 
and four ounces of 4 B. violet, which can be used in 
the same bath. 



ONE-DIP VEGETABLE BOTTLE GREEN. 
Done the same way, only use four ounces green. 

ONE-DIP VEGETABLE SEAL BROWN. 

Done in same way, only use four ounces to eight 
ounces cotton orange. 



DYEING SILK BLACK. 

Out of all the processes I know, I will only give 
two, for the reason that they are as good as any that 
can be found, and will save confusion of choice. 

First. — All drab silks, stripes and checks espe- 
cially require, after cleaning in soap and soda and 
washed off, to pass through a hot bath of nitric 
acid, composed of one pint acid to one gallon of 
water. This will, in about ten minutes, clear off all 
the old colors, and make them a yellow bottom, so 
striped goods will dye alike, and the sumac or tan- 
ning cut down that may be in the silks, and which 
prevents them taking a good color. Wash in one 
cold and one warm water, then lay down open in 
cold nitrate of iron bath all night. 

To make the iron liquor, use one gallon nitrate 
iron to eight gallons water, and add about one- 
quarter of iron every lot after. Rinse well out of 
this in two cold and one lukewarm waters. 



70 



To Dye. — in a strong decoction of logwood, made 
from chips, add oil soap to soften, handle in this as 
hot as the hands will bear; when black pass them 
through a clear oil soap to clear them, then hang 
without a wash quite open in hot stove-room. All 
silks are much more glossy if dried in a hot room. 
If a jet black is required, four parts logwood, 
one part of fustic is used. Of course, all light 
colors go in dye first, and the others follow in order ; 
faded blacks last. 



TO DYE SILK SPLENDID BLACK IN TWO 
HOURS. 

TO COLOR TWO HUNDRED YARDS, OR 
SIXTEEN POUNDS OF SILK. 

Prepare a hot solution of nitro-sulphate of iron, 5° 
Twaddle (150° F.), work in this one-half hour, then 
wash in two cold and one warm waters. Have ready 
and enter under the boil a fustic bath, made with 
eighteen pounds. In one-half hour lift, and have 
ready a logwood bath of sixteen pounds; enter this 
under the boil, after adding one pound oil soap 
previously dissolved. Winch or handle in this for half 
an hour, lift and dry in hot room. Nitro-sulphate 
of iron is made as follows: Dissolve four pounds 
copperas in five pounds nitric acid, by adding more 
copperas as fast as it dissolves. When dissolved, 
add it to two gallons water. Two gallons of this 
to twenty gallons of water will give good results. 
About two quarts of the iron liquor can be added 
every time it is used. 

.Anyone can make this iron liquor, as it does not 
fume like nitrate of iron, and is much cleaner, 



71 



ONE-DIP ANILINE BLACK ON SILK, 
PERFECTLY FAST. 

I do not give this as superior to or cheaper than 
the two formulas from logwood above given. It is 
a fair color, and dyed in one bath, and that, to "a 
busy man, is something. 

Experience is the principal thing to assure suc- 
cess. Dissolve brilliant silk black, and add it to a 
bath of water as hot as you can bear your hands in 
it, the usual quantity of Glauber salts, and just 
enough sulphuric acid to lift the color. There is 
no loss in making a strong color, as after the silk is 
dyed the balance will help the wool blacks. When 
finished the silk can pass through a hot soap bath 
and dried in a hot room quite open, or it can simply 
be washed off in water. 

The operation will take from one to two hours. 
When complete to look through it, the same appear- 
ance of bluish slate black will be seen as'in logwood 
and soap bath. 

SHEEPSKIN DYEING. 

For cleaning them, which they require before 
dyeing, see page on cleaning. 

They are dyed in three different ways : — 

First — Dissolve the color and add it to a bath 
which is kept at about 100° F., handle in for a time, 
then let them remain awhile, handle again, and so 
on, till they are the color required. 

Second. — Add dissolved color to square wooden 
shallow trough, the liquor can here mark 1 50° to 175° 
F. Let one man be at each end, each holding two 
corners. Let one gradually lower until the wool 
which is undermost touches the liquor. Now one 
slowly lowers and the other slowly raises quite evenly 
until all has passed through without touching the 
back. Keep repeating until nicely dyed. 



72 



Third. — A frame is made of wood 1 inch thick by 
2 inches wide, in the centre of which holes are 
pierced ; this frame should be about the size for the 
skin to fit inside. Lay the frame on a table and the 
skin inside. Then get needle and twine, stick the 
needle into the skin with the wool under. When 
the twine is fixed to the skin, thread it through the 
nearest hole in the frame, then in the skin, and so on 
until it is sewn all round and tight like a drum. 
Now cords and pulleys are arranged so that the skin 
can be lowered down to a kettle, the correct size, 
with the color in, when the steam is turned on until 
it reaches about 150° F. The wool is thus dyed 
without touching the skin. When dyed, wash off 
with it still on the frame and dry it on the frame; it 
will then be straight. 

Any of the colors mentioned for wool will dye 
them ; the acid colors, however, are the best, as they 
do not rub, and wear better. 

TO MAKE SKINS AS SOFT AS KID. 

After dyeing or scouring, if the skin is, when dry, 
found to be hard, the following will render it quite 
soft : — 

Pour two quarts of bran, that has been scalded, 
into a flat-bottomed tub large enough to hold the 
skin ; when lying open add to this a handful of salt 
and a tablespoonful of alum. When cold see that 
there is just enough liquor to cover the skin and lay 
in flat three days, then lift and dry, not wash. Pro- 
portions given are for about 30 x 18 inch size. 

SPECIAL TO GARMENT DYERS. 

Brilliant black. Fast acid aniline in one bath. 
Dyed sample : — 

This aniline is not to be confounded with any 
other aniline black on the market. Not one of them 
can touch it for its fine qualities. 



73 



It is not a mixture, but a direct color. It is not 
called fast and then instructions given to soap, wash 
or lime it to make it so. But is absolutely fast, only 
requiring to be washed in cold water, when it will 
stand acid, alkali, sun, air, and wear well in every 
particular. 

This is not the color sold at 50 cents per pound 
with instructions to use from four to six pounds 
to one hundred pounds of goods ; when ten pounds 
will be required to dye one hundred pounds. But 
this will color one hundred pounds of goods at 
from three to four per cent., according to color of 
goods at start and the quality and nature of the 
goods. 

It is not called black and yet requires other drugs 
with it ; but is the most brilliant black ever seen, and 
will make every color a real good shade. Even 
plaid goods and stripes come a good even color. 

This black does not turn green like others. 

DIRECTIONS FOR USE. 

Dissolve the color in boiling water, then add one 
per cent, of sulphuric acid as of color used, and two 
and one-half times the weight of Glauber salts. 
Enter goods at hand heat, well open out and bring 
slowly to boil. Boil till color is taken up, as this 
color will take up to a clear liquor just the same 
as any other good acid aniline. Lift into cold water, 
open out, put up smooth to drain, then dry. Now 
see if you ever saw a better black in your life. It 
is equal to the world-famed blacks dyed in Europe 
from an indigo bottom. 



SPECIAL ADVANTAGES. 

First. — It is dj^ed in less than half the time of any 
other black, and other lots can be dyed in same bath 
by adding required color and sulphuric acid. 



74 



Second. — It requires no cleaning off or limeing. 

Third. — The linings are clean, only a pale silver 
shade of gray. 

Fourth. — It covers the button-holes and silk 
stitchings and silk linings better than any other 
black. 

Fifth. — Goods of silk and wool mixed, if a stronger 
color is made up, and the silk dyed in it before the 
heat is raised much, will come black. Then add more 
water and raise the heat to dye the wool. 

Sixth. — At first cost it is cheap, and, all things 
considered, is really cheaper than logwood black. 

Seventh. — The garment dyer will find it agreat boon, 
from the fact of the goods requiring no mordanting 
and only the one boiling. They do not curl up 
and twist all out of shape, so will press up in half 
the time, and not have half the creases in of any 
other process, and takes through seams good. 

U, B. — My reputation and veracity I prize, but am 
prepared to stake it all on the representations I have 
made with regard to this wonderful black. I certainly 
consider it one of the greatest achievements of 
modern chemistry. Unlike most inventions, having 
their merits and demerits, this has no drawback, and 
leaves nothing to be desired. Having most thor- 
oughly tested it, I am placed in a position to con- 
fidently affirm all I have stated, and the testimony 
of every one to whom I have sold it confirms my 
own in every respect. 

Send for trial sample to F. J. Bird, 

2106 Columbia Avenue, 
Philadelphia, Pa. 



EIGHT SPLENDID COLOES IN ONE BATH. 

Eight new colors after the nature of brilliant black 
can be dyed in the same bath on woolen goods, one 
after the other, as follows : — . 



75 



BRILLIANT BLUE— FIRST DYED. 

Just the same as instructions for black, namely : 
one"; part blue, three parts acid, ten parts Glauber 
salts. No blue surpasses this in shade, and it is quite 
even and fast. Can be made any shade of navy by 
darkening- with brilliant black. 



BRILLIANT GREEN— SECOND DYED. 

Dyed the same way. This can be darkened, if 
required, with the black. 



BLACK— THIRD DYED. 

Follow instructions for brilliant black. 

GARNET-FOURTH DYED. 

Use brilliant garnet in same way, as the black 
exhausts all the color. The garnet will be just as 
bright as though it had a fresh bath 

BROWN— FIFTH BATH. 

Use brilliant brown or brilliant seal, according to 
shade required. Dyed same as others. 

All are warranted fast colors. 

After the last, if there are olive browns or bronze 
greens to be dyed, do them in the same bath by 
giving yellow with brown and indigotine to shade. 
For the bronze, add strong yellow to the green. 

ONE-DIP BOTTLE GREEN. 

Done in the same way, only use four ounces 
green, 



76 

ONE DIP SEAL BROWN". 

Done in same way, only use four ounces to eight 
orange. 

VELVET AND PLUSH DYEING. 

More significance is attached to the proper hand- 
ling of these in the cleansing and dyeing than is 
generally imagined. From first to last they should 
not be doubled or crushed. If they are, when wet, 
they will show it when dry. 

If it is in small pieces, tack them together strongly, 
not by the ends, but by the long way, aud as much 
as possible into squares, so they can be handled by 
the straight edge or selvage, and floated with both 
hands backwards and forwards in cleansing, wash- 
ing off and dyeing. Each time they are lifted out 
lay the back of the first piece down; the face, of 
course, is now up. Second piece face down on top 
of first face, etc., till all is out. 

After they are finished let them so drain for a 
time; then turn them so all parts can drain alike. 
Before they get dry take one piece at a time and 
shake it on all sides; this will both raise the pile 
and free it from wet, so the pile will not fall again. 
Then pin it up out in the air, so that the air blowing 
through will still help to raise the pile. 

For finishing same, see page on finishing. 

Valuable velvet, however, should be finished as 
follows : Lay each piece down on a table, and tack 
cloths on to fill out all parts into a square. Now 
with hard brush pat it on to a hand-frame, which 
is made as follows : Take four strips smooth wood, 
6 feet long, 2J inches wide, J inch thick; pierce 
holes in this, two and one-half inches apart ; then put 
square pieces, f inch thick, on each end and one in 
the middle, having one of the pierced pieces under 



77 



and one on top; now screw them so, and the other 
pieces the same. Now make two more pierced 
strips, say 3 or 4 feet long. The two long ones 
must have frame pins in, and the short ones will 
slide in between, so that the velvet can be stretched 
into full shape and kept tight by nails being dropped 
into the holes. 

The velvet has the under part down, which can 
be sponged with size, only not enough to wet the 
pile ; then held over charcoal fire or other heat to 
cause steam to rise through. Any part that may be 
crushed should be brushed while steaming. 

All garment dyers in the old country finish their 
velvets so. 

The same frame could be made do for small crape 
shawls, and can be made large enough for large 
ones. In that case they have to be made stouter. 
I had three sizes, as I prefer them framed to cylin- 
dered. 



PROCESS OF BLEACHING OSTRICH 
FEATHERS, ETC. 

By means of peroxide of hydrogen, fifteen volumes 
capacity. 

First. — Wash the feathers with castile soap, and 
rinse them thoroughly with lukewarm water in 
order to remove all the grease and soap which may 
stick to the flue. 

Second. — Soak feathers in a bath composed of one 
gallon of ammonia 20° Be. to every eight gallons 
of plain water for about eight to ten hours. 

Third. — Take feathers out of this bath and squeeze 
out the excesss of ammonia which is in the flue by 
passing feathers through a wringer. 



78 

Fourth. — Put feathers in a bath composed of five 
gallons peroxide of hydrogen, with addition of 
twelve to sixteen ounces of ammonia ; let it work 
slowly, stirring feathers from time to time for about 
six hours; after six hours working, put feathers in 
one side of the bath and add five gallons peroxide 
of hydrogen and three to four ounces of ammonia. 
Stir the bath well so as to insure the mixture of the 
peroxide with the ammonia. Then let the bath 
work for nine to twelve hours more ; after that time 
add again two or three ounces of ammonia. The 
peroxide will work yet for twelve hours more until 
it gets exhausted, and you may ascertain the fact by 
the following process : — 

Take a small quantity of the bath in a tumbler 
and throw in a few crystals of permanganate of 
potash; should bubbles of gas appear, it is proof 
that the peroxide is working ; yet, if none appear, it 
is proof that the peroxide is exhausted. 

Then the feathers have to be rinsed three or four 
times in lukewarm water, and then to be put in a 
second bath of peroxide of hydrogen, which has to 
be prepared as follows : — 

To two and one-half gallons peroxide of hydrogen 
add two and one-half or three gallons plain water 
and eight ounces of ammonia, and put in the feathers. 
Let the bath work so for ten hours, and after add 
again two ounces of ammonia as before, and it will 
then work twelve hours more until it is exhausted. 

Everyone who will follow carefully the above 
directions will succeed to make white the darkest 
gray feathers, say ten pounds of feathers by using 
about seven to seven and one-half gallons of peroxide. 
After the feathers have been taken out of the 
peroxide bath they must be rinsed thoroughly with 
lukewarm water two to three times, and after soak- 
ing them again in a soap solution for six to eight 
hours, rinse them in lukewarm water in order to 
remove all soap and dirt remaining in the flue. 



79 



TO BLEACH FEATHERS WITH BIOXOLATE 
OF POTASH. 

To one gallon of cold water add from one-sixth, to 
one-eighth of an ounce. Let them lie in from 
fifteen to twenty minutes, then rinse in cold water. 

For feathers which have to remain white, the bath 
should be composed of one and one-quarter ounces 
bioxolate of potash and one and one-eighth ounces 
oxalic acid to one gallon of cold water; lay down 
in it till perfectly white. Wash off in warm water. 

TO MAKE CLEAR WATER FOR BLEACH- 
ING, ETC. 

Put a faucet four inches from the bottom of any 
ordinary clean barrel, in which let water stand until 
it has settled clear. 

When this is used, wash out and fill again. If 
it happens to be in a dusty place, of course, it 
requires covering over. If it does not get clear 
without, add one grain of alum to every gallon of 
water, or from two to three drops of muriatic acid. 

BLEACHING LIGHT-COLOR FEATHERS 
WHITE. 

(From Practical Feather Cleaner and Dyer. ) 

Old, faded light colors that you are desirous of 
bleaching white can be accomplished in the follow- 
ing way : — 

Wash thoroughly in warm water, using soap. 
Add a small pinch of soda, after which rinse in 
three warm waters. Dilute in clear bowl or basin 
one-quarter ounce of permanganate of potash in one 
gallon of boiling water. Enter feathers and let 
remain in bath about one minute, continually 



80 






agitating in bath with clean glass stick ; after which 
you will notice that the feathers have assumed a 
light, full brown color. Take out of the bath but 
do not rinse them; let the loose color drain off for 
a few seconds, meantime empty bath and rinse 
your bowl thoroughly; then dilute half an ounce of 
oxalic acid or sulphurous acid in one gallon of 
boiling water. The water must be absolutely clean. 

Enter feathers, and let them remain in until all 
the color has entirely disappeared, gently agitating 
while in bath. After the bath has become trans- 
parent and the feathers white, which will take 
about two minutes, empty out about two-thirds of 
the bath, and add cold water to reduce to hand heat, 
then add a small handful of starch and a drop of 
delicate violet, and enter your feathers and let 
them remain in about one minute ; squeeze out and 
dry in starch. Blue you will generally find the 
hardest of all light colors to remove for white. 
The moment it enters the oxalic bath, it generally, 
to a more or less extent, developes the color again. 
Such being the case, after rinsing in lukewarm 
water to remove acid, return to a weak soda bath 
for a minute, and then rinse and return to perman- 
ganate bath, rather weaker than the first one; in 
other words, repeat tne first operation all through, 
only in weaker solutions. 

This process can be used successfully in bleaching 
all light colors white. In bleaching natural blacks, 
however, it would not be practicable. 

FEATHER DYEING. 

Feathers, like silk, will take on most of the aniline 
colors. For cleaning, lay them down in warm soda, 
with a little soap in the liquor. Keep them warm 
in this for one hour, then gather them up in the 
hand by the stems and work them backward and 
forward to free them from all impurities. Then 



81 



wash in several warm waters. Now give them a 
warm sour of sulphuric acid, just enough to make 
it taste tart. 

While they lay in this sour bath get all your 
things on table to dye them. The lightest shades 
commence first. 

The dark ones can be dyed best in copper or 
glazed ware. Dissolve the color and add it to the 
warm water by degrees to prevent their taking on 
unevenly, which they will do in too strong a liquor, 
without washing from the sour, only drain them. 
Then enter dye-bath, and with the hands and a 
glass rod keep them in motion so that the color will 
get into all of the parts. Get them even in color 
in this dip, then lift and add a little more of the color, 
If it is a neutral color you are using add no acid, 
but if an acid color, add a little to it now before 
entering them again. Always stir up the color and 
acid before entering the feathers. Now work again 
in same way. 

For dark colors the bath will require to be 
stronger than for silk or wool dyeing, and they often 
require to lie in under boil for one hour, to get the 
color even and dark and the stem to match. If it is 
a thick, hard stem that does not take, dip a finger 
in ammonia and rub it on : this will soften it, then 
let it lie in till dyed. When dyed, wash off till 
clean and finish up. 

Strong colors will keep several days for re-use by 
adding to them. 

Any of the neutral or acid colors as described in 
this book, both straight and compound, can be used 
on feathers. 

Colors are so cheap that most people can keep 
a one-pound can of each desirable color from which 
they can dye the straight colors and make the com- 
pounds. If, however, the purchaser of this book, 
who only uses the colors in a very limited quantity, 
desires to be supplied with 25-cent boxes, on receipt 
6 



82 



of P. 0. order or cash, I will send as many or as few 
lots as requested. Patterns should be sent of the 
shades required, and if any questions are asked with 
the order an answer will be sent with the colors. 

I wish it to be distinctly understood that goods 
thus matched to order expressly for a customer will 
not be shipped on credit or on C. 0. D., for the 
reason that no time can be given to the booking and 
looking-up of such small sums ; and many compound 
colors have to be mixed to shade and would not suit 
others' trade, so if returned the mailing and the color 
would be lost. 

WONDERFULLY QUICK WAY FOR DYEING 
FEATHERS BLACK. 

(From Practical Feather Cleaner and Dyer. ) 

Clean off, then prepare by diluting a quarter 
pound of turmeric in a gallon of boiling water and 
bring to a boil ; after which enter your feathers, and 
let remain in bath about five minutes, keeping them 
well under the surface, and gently moving while in 
bath ; after which take feathers out and rinse twice 
in clear cold water. Meantime dilute one pound of 
logwood in about one and a half gallons of boiling 
water, and boil for about fifteen minutes, after which 
take feathers out and rinse twice in clear cold water. 
Meantime dilute one pound of logwood in about one 
and a half gallons of boiling water, and boil for 
about fifteen minutes, after which enter your 
feathers, and let them remain in bath about four 
minutes, then take out and rinse thoroughly in two 
waters. Dilute one ounce of bichromate of potash 
in one gallon, more or less, of boiling water, enough 
to completely cover up your feathers, dissolving 
bichromate of potash thoroughly. Enter your 
feathers, let them remain in bath about three min- 
utes, after which take them out and rinse thoroughly. 



83 



Meantime have logwood bath boiling, and return 
feathers to it. Cover up, and let them remain about 
eight minutes ; take out and rinse twice as before. 
After rinsing, prepare a bath of about half an ounce 
of bichromate of potash and salts of tartar, about 
the size of a pea, in a gallon of boiling water ; 
dissolve thoroughly. Let them remain in bath about 
three minutes ; after which take out and rinse thor- 
oughly in cold water. Then mix a bath of hot soap- 
suds, and enter feathers ; wash well and rinse in luke- 
warm water. The washing and rinsing is not abso- 
lutely necessary; in fact, it cannot much improve what 
is already a clean, glassy black. Washing, however, 
if productive of a change at all, must be beneficial. 
Then proceed to mix a small handful of starch in a 
small quantity of cold water, pass feathers through 
and dry. While your feathers are in the bichromate 
of potash bath, they must be kept moving in bath 
constantly and well under the surface. There is 
nothing to be added to make a successful result, 
except it be to caution you to adhere as closely as 
possible to the recipe. 

It often occurs that feathers are brought in to be 
clipped over that have faded out, or have grown 
rusty-looking from exposure to light and long wear. 
The color can be restored by simply passing them 
through the last two baths for the same length of 
time that is allowed to the regular recipe. During 
the process of drying black be sure to have the 
starch beaten out as fast as it dries. It is best to 
dry them in the open air, and, if possible, allow 
them them to hang in the sun for a while, as it 
improves the color. One especial advantage this 
black has over most others, is that it improves with 
age, and the black grows more intense. 

For those who wish a good book, devoted entirely 
to feather cleaning and dyeing, I refer them to 
the Practical Feather Cleaner, Bleacher and Dyer, 
by Alexander Paul. Published by Mrs. Dr. M. 



84 



Frank, Textile Colorist office, 506 Arch street, Phila- 
delphia, Pa. Price $10.00. 

It is quite a valuable work, of one hundred and 
ninety pages, and treats of the new and old methods, 
giving fifty dyed samples of the new. Having ex- 
amined the same, I take pleasure in recommending 
it, and on receipt of price will forward it, post paid, 
to any address. 



WHY USE ANILINE COLORS. 

The reasons for confining the formulas to aniline 
colors are as follows : — 

First. — The old plan of boiling out woods and 
mordanting almost everything is too tedious and 
expensive for this progressive age. 

Second. — Quite as fast colors can now be obtained 
in one-quarter the time at less expense. 

Third. — Good, even results can also be attained it 
my instructions on treatment of fast acid colors are 
followed. 

Fourth. — The acid colors are so little known to 
the garment dyer that, as a general rule, they 
thought them applicable to new work only or 
mostly. 

Fifth. — The few anilines they did use, as violet, 
fuchsine, green and Bismarck, smutted or rubbed oft 
if dyed heavy. 

This prejudiced them against anilines, and the 
fact that the above colors faded easily, helped to 
increase this feeling, and this objection certainly 
was well founded, and not at all confined to the 
garment dyer. 

Everything has its use. Even this objection is no 
exception, as the chemists set to work to produce a 
new class of dyes that would not rub, and that 
would bear exposure, be as bright as the former, 
stand careful washing, and be cheaper in use. 



85 



All these conditions have been accomplished, and, 
to such an extent, that some of them will stand 
alkali, acid, sun and air as well as any of the old 
colors, and much better than some. 

Sixth. — Manufacturers have found out the facts of 
all I have stated and are generally, yea, universally, 
adopting them with perfect satisfaction. I do not 
mean those who mix seventy per cent, cotton with 
thirty per cent, wool and tear it up together to make 
it into one soft thread to make all wool (?) blankets ; 
or put it to fill up backs of all wool (?) heavy goods 
and dye the same with bright cotton colors just 
stuck with alum, that even rain will wash out. 
There is so much of this carried on in America that 
it is time a law was passed to prohibit it ; and those 
who violated it ought to have a tag put around their 
necks stating their crime and put them in a public 
place till the Day of Judgment or until they made 
restitution and engaged to call " a spade a spade." 

Such persons I know, and have seen in their mills 
labels with actual fac similes of European celebrated 
manufacturers of all pure wool goods, and theirs 
were being put on as their importations. I asked 
how this came about, and received the answer that 
the wholesale house for whom they made it sup- 
plied the labels and requested them to put them on. 
Shame on the manufacturer ! Shame on the whole- 
sale house ! Shame on the retailer or jobber ! As 
they all know the " dodge." England never would 
have built up her export trade, and could not now 
maintain it if she lent herself to such tricks. 

I have done all I could to encourage domestic 
manufacture and will still do so ; but I have no 
charity (if I have, it is a very red-hot sort) for frauds 
of this kind. Domestic industry, in the long run, 
is not helped but retarded by the few who do such 
dishonest trade, as even the McKinley Bill will not 
prevent the introduction of foreign goods unless as 
good is made here. 



Please pardon this digression, and allow me to give 
one deep, long sigh in parting with those " hounds " 
that I cannot " metaphorically " give them a fatally 
twisted neck. 

I will then proceed to my sixth reason for confin- 
ing myself to these fast acid colors. 

My sixth reason is, if they are so good for all 
departments of new goods they ought to bring some 
sunshine by way of desirable help to the garment 
dyer. I know it is hard to get garment dyers to 
change off from what they have been brought up to. 
One reason is, they do not get much time for experi- 
menting, and they cannot take everyone's word. I 
don't blame them for this, as some of the big houses 
represent things falsely. The German, especially, 
is very hard to turn ; he is a jolly, good-natured 
fellow, but you cannot stuff him much. When a 
boy, I saw the head of a goose held up and beans 
dropped in its throat; they just stuck there — then 
a stick forced them down. I said, " What do you 
do that for?" The answer was, " Want to fatten 
them and they won't take them any other way." 
All right; now I have got some beans and I want to 
fatten the garment dyer, so look out, you have to 
take them. As they sugar-coat pills to make them 
pleasant, so you see I have coated my beans with 
six good reasons and will yet add another. 

Seventh. — What would have been the use of filling 
this book with the old way of doing things ? All 
of the old people would have said, with a knowing 
wink, " He copied that from our great grandfathers." 
And the young men would say, " Why, he has been 
asleep for ten years or more." My father was in the 
business before me. I succeeded him and built a 
house and factory in the west of England, which is 
one of the best businesses anywhere about there at 
this day. I followed it for twenty years, and then 
sold out, and have devoted the last fifteen years to 
the study and development of mordants, colors and 



87 



machinery for the perfecting of the art. I call it an 
" art " as distinct from a trade, as the latter you can 
be taught and followed mechanically; the other is 
never learnt, but is always developing into some- 
thing of present value and of future hope. 

I am one of those who believe largely in the pos- 
sibilities. Xot that sort of possibility of getting 
knowledge without application, for nothing good is 
born but of pain ; nor of getting rich without 
working for it. There are only three ways of get- 
ting money : 1st. Have it left you. 2d. "Work for 
it. 3d. Steal it by fair means or foul. 

I did not have it left me, I did not like to steal, 
so I settled clown to work. Fitted up a laboratory 
and gave about three years to the investigation of 
the aniline colors, fixing them and making one-dip 
dyes. I must have been successful, for I was the 
first to do this in every midshade or compound color 
or one-dip vegetable dye, with one exception, that 
of one-dip wool vegetable black — that was a French 
invention, or, to be more exact, I was first told of it 
by a Frenchman. All others were, and are to-day, 
only following me. Am satisfied with variety and 
practical utility of my inventions, and, without 
egotism, I simply claim to be the father of these 
children. I do not look upon it either as good luck ; 
for, like some pleasant fairy vision, they did not come 
in my way. I had to do a lot of comparative waste 
work for every tangible good result. "When this 
was done and became known, as it did, I could get 
my §80 from a paper for an article, and had more 
communications than I could answer. I had to settle 
down and write the Am. P. Dyers' Comp., as 
already referred to, to satisfy progressive people the 
world over. I had then to put machinery in factory 
to manufacture my inventions. 

Then came the experience of many inventors. 
Analyses were made, and lots of others commenced 
to manufacture. 



Through failing health I sold out, went to old 
country, after a time came back and commenced my 
old business again as dry cleaner and garment dyer. 

The cleaning is done on the premises here, under 
my superintendence. The dyeing is done away by 
those who follow my instructions, and the colors 
here recommended are used. So, I think, if any- 
one is entitled to the confidence of his readers in 
recommending what is to their interest to adopt, I 
shall be judged as being that man. 

This work will, therefore, be seen to be the con- 
densed experience of thirty-five years into one small 
book, containing all the information the garment 
dyer requires. 

I do not question the good qualities of lots of 
drugs, especially archil and indigo. They have done 
and still are doing good service. The two men- 
tioned cannot be beaten by any of the anilines 
except as to cost, and, as money counts, the anilines 
are there. Just a few lines, not to those who know 
me, but to those who do not. Please send me your 
trial order, and follow my instructions, and if the 
goods do not give satisfaction you can return them 
at my cost, and I will refund your money. 

A word to my old friends. Since my return from 
the old country, I found that some of my patrons 
had written several times to my old address in 
Brooklyn. These letters never reached me, or they 
would have been answered. I have had no time to 
give them all my present address, and hope this 
means will find them, and I shall be glad to hear 
from them again. 

INFORMATION ON ANILINE COLORS. 

I will give advice to all the subscribers to this 
book, or to all who buy aniline colors from me. 
How to produce all midshades or mixed colors on 
any material of animal or vegetable fibre, in neutral 



89 



colors for mixed goods, of cotton and wool, and acid 
fast colors for silk and wool, in every shade. Send 
stamped directed envelopes, or no notice will be 
taken. 

Will send quotations for any color needed (men- 
tion how much is bought at one time). 

I will send pattern card of all the compound 
colors mentioned in book for fast acid colors on 
wool and silks from page 119, being forty shades, 
on receipt of 25 cents in stamps, and will send 
pattern book of ninety-six colors, in most of the 
desirable shades, dyed by me, on woolen yarn, all 
cotton and cotton and wool mixed yarns, showing 
fair samples of one-dip colors. The copies of this 
book cost 75 cents each. Some of them are slightly 
soiled on outside only. These I will sell at 25 cents 
each; perfect ones, 75 cents each. 

FELT, FUR AND WOOL HAT DYEING. 

REMARKS ON DYEING EELTS. 

Felt-dyeing is essentially the same as wool-dyeing, 
though in practice certain modifications are rendered 
necessary by reason of the different nature of the 
hairs of the rabbit, the camel and the beaver, which 
are finer and smoother than wool, and consequently 
assimilate mordants and coloring matter less easily. 
Nevertheless, the mordants must not be too energetic 
as the felt would otherwise lose its natural lustre 
and its solidity would be greatly affected. This 
condition requires that the dye-beck should be kept 
at a well-regulated temperature, lest the solidity and 
the brilliancy of the shades should be impaired. 
For reds, felts are generally dyed with cochineal or 
red woods, but the preference is given to cochineal 
as yielding shades finer and more durable. The 
process is concluded with sanders or Brazil-wood, 
according to shade. 



90 



The use of bichromate of potash offers certain 
advantages in dyeing felts brown. The felt is boiled 
gently in a solution of this salt mixed with argol 
and sulphuric acid. The process is completed in a 
new beck containing fustic, sanders and Brazil-wood. 
Bichromate of potash alone gives fine brown reds 
on dyeing up in sanders. 



BLACK FOR ONE HUNDRED FELT HATS. 

First bath of fifty-six gallons water at 100° F., 
add one and three-fourths pints of extract of chest- 
nuts and eighteen ounces soda and heat for three- 
quarters of an hour, but do not boil. Take out the 
hats and turn them inside out and put them back 
into the liquor for half an hour, then take them up 
and let them air half an hour. 

Second bath of boiling water, dissolve dry extract 
logwood, six and one-fourth pounds ; verdigris, two 
one-fourth pounds ; copperas, eight and three-fourths 
pounds ; extract dry fustic, seven ounces. When 
all are dissolved take three parts of it out and fill 
into the bath the same quantity of water. When at 
100° F., the hats are turned right side out and entered 
for one hour. The heat is not allowed to exceed 130° 
F. ; it is then raised to the boil, the hats receiving 
two turns and then left in for one hour, at which 
time they are taken out and aired. Cool the bath 
and put in half of the reserved liquor. They are 
now entered and turned every half hour for two 
hours, when the rest of the reserve liquor is added 
and the bath raised to the boil for a short time. 
They are then taken out and aired. When cold, 
wash the thin ones in cold and the thick ones in 
hot water. They will then be passed through an 
acid bath of seventy grains (two and forty-five one 
hundredth ounces) of muriatic acid to every gallon 
of water, to remove every excess of copper. 



91 



The object of starting with weak liquors is to 
prevent hardness before the dye has penetrated. 
The proportions given are for medium quality ; best 
felts require less than poor felts, as they are more 
porous. For hard hats the soda will be omitted. 
If very deep shades are wanted, let them lay in the 
last bath dye till cold; if blue shade is required, 
leave out the fustic. 

MAROON ON ONE HUNDRED FELT HATS. 

Dissolve one and one-half pounds carbonate of 
soda in sufficient water to soak the hats, in which an 
extra pound of carbonate of soda is sprinkled as the 
operation proceeds. This hot bath neutralizes any 
acid in them. 

Second bath, dry, extra fustic, three and one- 
quarter pounds; ground bark, eighteen ounces; 
extra dry madder, eighteen ounces ; copperas, three 
and one-quarter pounds; verdigris, ten and one- 
half ounces. 

The other ingredients should be boiled before the 
copperas and verdigris are added. Then add nine 
pounds blue archil. 

Before dying, take out four pails of liquor and fill 
up with cold water. Enter at 112° F. They get 
two dippings inside and two outside ; then raise the 
heat gradually to the boil; then take out as many 
only as can be opened before they get cold, for they 
will oxidize if left lie in heaps. The balance of the 
dye should be put in at each turn of the hats. 

If not bright enough, add more archil ; then wash, 
first in cold, then wth hot water ; raise with acid if 
too dark. 

GREEN. 

Felts are dyed green more easily than blue. A 
green is produced by means of extract of indigo, 
or by prussiate of potash. The extract of indigo is 



92 



dissolved, then boiled for ninety minutes with alum 
and tartar. The felts are lifted, and a larger or 
smaller quantity of flavine is put in the same beck, 
according to the tone of green desired. The goods 
are then boiled together for about an hour. The 
flavine may be replaced by a decoction of bark or 
fustic. All shades of green may thus be obtained, 
by adding to the dye-beck, in the needful propor- 
tions, extract of indigo and a yellow coloring 
matter. 

TO PRODUCE A PRUSSIATE GREEN. 

The felts are first dyed blue, as previously directed 
for green, then rinsed and plunged into a solution of 
nitrate of lead and tartaric acid, in which they are 
boiled for about two hours. The dying is completed 
in a fresh beck, made up of red chromate of potash 
and a small quantity of nitric acid, which is heated 
until the required shade is produced. The propor- 
tion of chromate of potash to be used on the shade 
required. 

BROWNS 

may be produced in a variety of ways, but San- 
ders and Brazil, with galls and sumac, are most 
commonly used. 

For fawn shades, the goods are boiled in a beck 
of sanders and fustic in the proportion of three to 
two. 

DEEPER SHADES 

are produced by mixing with this beck a weak 
solution of copperas, and steeping the felts for 
fifteen or twenty minutes. 

The deepest browns, and even blacks, may be pro- 
duced by varying the proportions of sanders and 
fustic. The felts may be previously boiled in a solu- 
tion of alum, argol, and a little bluestone, adding a 



93 



decoction of fustic, and boiling the felts gently in 
this beck for two hours. They are then lifted, let 
cool, and drained for twenty-four hours. It is best 
to rinse in the washing machine and finish in a 
decoction of Brazil-wood, one part; logwood chips, 
four parts. 

DARK BROWN ON FELT— TWENTY-FIVE 
POUNDS. 

Chrornate of potash, seventeen and one-half ounces; 
oil of vitriol, three and one-quarter pounds. Boil 
for thirty minutes ; lift, and add extract of logwood, 
four pounds six ounces ; acid Bismarck brown, eight 
and three-quarters ounces. Boil for one hour, lift, 
and air. 

YELLOW 

of all shades presents no difficulty. The felts are 
boiled in a mixture of alum, tartar and a solution 
of tin, and then rinsed and dyed off in a flavin e 
beck. We may obtain another yellow in a beck 
of alum and tin with a decoction of fustic, but the 
shades are too pale for most purposes. 



BRONZE, ALL SHADES, 

as well as other colors, are now dyed in one dip by 
my special aniline, prepared for this kind of work. 



SILVER GRAYS 

are obtained by boiling for half an hour in a solu- 
tion of tartar, gallnuts and extract of indigo, sad- 
dening afterwards, more or less, with copperas. 



94 



COMMON GRAYS 



are obtained by increasing the proportions of gall 
and copperas. For yellowish or reddish grays fustic 
or archil should be added. 



A GOOD BLACK 

is obtained by chromate of potash, two pounds three 
ounces; red argol, one pound; sulphuric acid, two 
ounces. When it has boiled well the felts are en- 
tered, turned and boiled gently for two hours; then 
in a bath of five pints fustic, twenty-one logwood, 
to shade. 

RED. 

The process of different reds is carried on as fol- 
lows : A beck is filled with water, a solution of tin 
added, and the whole heated to a boil. The felts 
are then steeped in this for half an hour; then taken 
out and the requisite quantity of finely-ground 
cochineal, with a suitable dose of flavine, put in. 
The mixture is allowed to boil well, and the felts are 
re-entered and boiled gently and steadily. Lastly, 
they are washed. By working in this manner a fine 
scarlet is produced, and time, labor and fuel is econ- 
omized. For bluer shades, leave out flavine. 



CERISE. 

For a cerise tone the felts are boiled gently for 
two hours in a solution of tartar, tin and sulphuric 
acid, and the dyeing is effected in a cochineal beck 
as above. Rose shades may be dyed in an old beck 
which has served for scarlet or cerise, adding, accord- 
ing as a lighter or fuller shade is required, more or 
less of tartar, solution of tin or cochineal. 



95 



ROSE. 



A finer rose may be also produced by the use of 
alum and the finest quantity of tartar, and giving 
the color with ammoniacle cochineal. It will be 
understood, to succeed with the reds just mentioned, 
it is necessary that the felts should be washed and 
bleached. For the lighter shades yellow, red and 
flame color, garnet, orange and gold, the becks may 
be used which have served for scarlet or cerise, by 
adding a little young fustic and cochineal mixed 
with a solution of tin. These colors are rarely ap- 
plied to felt, and we only mention them in passing. 

REDS. 

The shades obtained with red woods are very 
beautiful, but little used in felt dyeing, on account 
of their want of solidity. To obtain full reds of the 
woods, the felts are boiled in alum, free from iron, 
to which a little bluestone has been added, rinsed 
and entered in a decoction of Brazil-wood. Ma- 
genta may be used for topping. 

BLUE 

should be very fine quality to be suitable for felts- 
It may be produced with a red prussiate, along with 
tin crystals and oxalic acid, to which is added, in a 
wooden beck containing pure water, a very little 
sulphuric acid. The felts are then plunged in and 
energetically agitated in the beck. They dye up 
first a light green, then a deep green, then a bluish 
shade, which changes gradually to a deep blue, when 
the felt no longer must be touched. 

During the latter part of the process, which lasts 
about an hour, the temperature is gradually raised. 
As soon as the goods have taken a deep blue, the 
beck is brought to a boil, and kept gently boiling 



96 



without interruption for another hour. At the end 
of this time a fine blue is obtained. 

According to the tone desired, either magenta or 
methyl blue, may be mixed with water. For dyeing 
felts an aniline blue, the same methods may be 
followed, as for wool. 

Indigo carmine is very seldom used for dyeing 
felts bine. If it has to be employed, they are boiled 
for a quarter of an hour with alum and tartar, and 
dyed aftewards in the same beck with successive 
additions of dissolved extract of indigo. 

Felt, fur, etc., have thus been treated as the 
standard methods adopted for a number of years, 
and is being followed largely to-day. Many, how- 
ever, have gradually shifted their moorings, and 
have gradually introduced the quicker and less ex- 
pensive method of aniline colors, as also of alizarine 
colors, both of which I will now treat upon. 

ANILINE COLORS. 

For felt, fur and wool hats. 

Black, being the principal color in demand, will 
have priority. Aniline salts, or oil, has been used 
successfully, but as this requires about as much 
operation as the foregoing processes, it would be 
simply futile to give the formula here, especially as 
a straight black aniline is now made brilliant fast 
black that will work with simply 2 per cent, sul- 
phuric acid and 10 per cent. Glauber salts to 4 per 
cent, of color. Entered at 150° F., and gradually 
brought to the boil, fr©m 4 to 6 per cent, will color 
one hundred pounds of hats, as good black as can 
possibly be dyed with any process ; the results are 
always certain and really beautiful, and by far 
cleaner than by any other method, and stand fulling 
and pouncing splendidly. Four per cent, will color 
hats wool, 6 per cent, felt and fur. This color 
penetrates very well, and will exhaust or take up 






97 

clear; can be used for other lots, or other colors 
can be dyed in the same kettle, as per instruction on 
wool dyeing eight different colors from one liquor. 
See wool dyeing. 

For further particulars of this black and price, see 
advertisement at end of book. 

!No one who tries this ever wants any other 
process, as it is in every respect a perfect boon. 

In reference to other colors, what may be said of 
one can be said of all, which is this — there is no 
color or shade but can be obtained with very little 
practice, but will equal, if not surpass, any of the 
old methods, and at less cost in much less time. 

I will mention a few as a criterion for the rest. 



FELT-HAT COLORING. 

Cost of dyeing with anilines as against old 
methods. 

BLACK. 

Brilliant fast black stands unrivaled, as one pound 
will color twenty-five pounds of dark stock; and 
one and one-half pounds will color twenty-five 
pounds of white stock. 



FAWN, TAN, DRAB, ETC. 

One pound color will dye about one hundred 
pounds. Price of color, $1.00. 



DOVE COLOR, PEARL, SILVER GRAY, ETC. 

One pound will color one hundred pounds full 
shades, and in light shade even two to three hundred 
pounds. Price of color, $0.75. 

7 



V8 



DARK DRAB AND LIGHT SHADES OF 
BROWN. 

One pound will color one hundred pounds. Price 
of color, $1.00. 

CANARY OR LEMON COLOR. 

One pound will color from fifty to seventy-five 
pounds. Price of color, $1.00. 

YELLOW OR FLAVINE COLOR. 

Strong yellow, which is four times as strong as 
some yellows on the market, and intensely bright, 
will color from one hundred to two hundred pounds. 
Price of color, $1.00. 

ORANGE, ErjHER YELLOW OR RED 
SHADE. 
Will color fully one hundred pounds. Price, $0.50. 

SCARLETS. 

All shades are the same price and strength, are 
equally bright as cardinal, and much cheaper. Price, 
per pound, $0.50. 

GOLDEN AND ALL OTHER SHADES OF 
LIGHT AND MEDIUM BROWNS. 

From one to one and one-half pounds will color 
one hundred pounds. Price of color, $1.00. 



99 



LIGHT SEAL BROWN. 



One and one-half pounds will color fifty pounds 
full shade. Price of color, SI. 00, 



FULL SEAL BROWN. 

One pound will color from twenty-five to thirty 
pounds. Price of color, $1.00. 
Red or yellow shades, same price. 



OLIVES AND BRONZE MODES. 

One pound will color from thirty to fifty pounds. 
Price of color, $1.00. 



MODE GREENS, ALL SHADES. 

Oue pound will color from twenty-five to thirty- 
five pounds. Price of color, $1.25. 



BOTTLE AND DARK GREENS. 

One pound will color about twenty-five pounds. 
Price of color, $1.25. 



LIGHT BLUE IN ALL TONES. 

One pound will color about two hundred pounds", 
or, if very light, as much as four hundred pounds. 
Price of color, SI. 50. 



MEDIUM AND NAVY BLUE. 

Iu greenish or reddish shade, or pure blue, are all 
one price. Price of color, $1.50. 



100 



CARDINAL. 

Have a new color, which dyes equal to cochineal, 
very bright, and even far better than fast red or 
rocceline ; indeed, it stands unequalled for its strength 
and brilliancy of tone. One pound will color about 
seventy-five pounds. Price of color, $0.75. 

MAROON. 

A good solid color is produced by this of desir- 
able shade, that stands far better than any made 
from woods, archil, etc. One pound will color fifty 
pounds or over. Price of color, per pound, $1.00. 

GARNET AND MULBERRY. 

Two good shades ; will color about fifty pounds 
each. Price of color, per pound, $1.00. 

PLUM COLOR. 

This is a new straight color, very strong and will 
dye evenly, as light as heliotrope and all the way 
down to a rich blooming plum color. Is quite fast. 
Price of color, per pound, $1.50. 

Mode colors are mostly compounds ; that is, two 
or more colors are blended into one. This is all 
explained and the proportions given for each and 
all in the articles on color mixing. 

Those there given in acid colors are to be pre- 
ferred to the neutral colors, as being much faster. 

All the formulas given for the straight and com- 
pound colors of wool, will also do for felt, fur and 
wool. 

And the same remarks apply to hat dyeing. That 
any particular shade of sample sent can be matched 
and the color sent w T ith instructions. 



101 

Modifications can be made to formulas given and 
any anilines'; that is to say, acid or neutral ones in 
connection with woods and other drugs if so desired 
can be used by first giving the following mordant : — 

TO MORDANT FELT, FUR AND WOOL HATS 
SO THEY WILL TAKE ANY DYESTUFFS. 

Prepare a bath with two pounds bichromate of 
potash, two pounds bluestone or sulphate of copper 
(which is both the same thing), three pounds argols 
and from three to four pounds sulphuric acid. Boil 
in this from one to two hours according to thickness 
of hats. From this no wash off is given ; simply 
drain. 

In the bath used for dyeing no acid must be used 
with the neutral colors or with woods. 

ALIZARINE COLORS IN FELT, FUR AND 
WOOL HAT DYEING. 

Alizarine colors may all be dyed on wool from 
the liquid or powder after mordanting, as follows : — 

To one hundred pounds of hats, for alizarine red 
and S. B. in powder, prepare in bath five pounds 
sulphate of alumina, neutralized with a little soda 
and two pounds acetic acid 90° F. ; enter goods just 
under boiling point and keep them at that for one and 
one- quarter hours. 

DYEING. 

Three to four pounds of color and two pounds 
acetic acid; enter cold and gradually raise tempera- 
ture to the boil, and boil one hour and a half. 

The mordanting and color can be done in one 
bath if a little duller color will suit. All bright 
shades of red and orange are brightest with this 
mordant. 



102 



ALIZARINE MORDANT FOR DARK SHADES. 

The same mordant does for all dark colors in 
alizarine, namely : From two and one-half to three 
pounds bichromate of potash, one and one-half 
pounds tartar or one-half pound tartaric acid. Boil 
in this for one and one-half hours. 

No goods are washed from the mordants, but are 
kept from air and sun as much as possible. 

All colors and shades can be got from alizarine, 
as one color will mix and work with the other. 
The only skill is in mixing proportions to shade and 
seeing that the heat is not raised too quickly, or it 
will take on unevenly. And, if the color is taken 
up before the one and one-half hours have expired, 
the goods must boil in that time to even them and 
fix a firm color. 

Dry alizarine is about 90 cents per pound. It 
will therefore be seen that it is much more expensive 
than anilines, without any corresponding advantage. 



RE-DYEING AND FINISHING CRAPE VEILS. 

They can be cleaned and dyed in one bath, by 
adding to the soap bath logwood and a little blue- 
stone, just enough to turn the logwood bluish. 
When black enough, well wash off. Then stiffen 
with glue, into which a little logwood is added to 
color the glue, so it will not look shiny. 

Well wring out, then lay in dark linen cloth and 
roll up, and pat it all over; this will take all the 
excess of dampness out so no shiny places can 
appear. 

Now put it on a frame, stretching it to the same 
size it was before; when dry, fold it down the 
centre, and put thin cloth or piece of paper over 
and press it over, just heavy enough to make it lay flat. 



103 



SECOND WAY. 



Take it from the glue liquor, and finish it on the 
cylinder, taking care to fix it to size. 



THIRD WAY. 



Pin it out on sheet, or on a board, carefully 
smoothing all pin marks out after. 



FOURTH WAY. 

After they are strained and dry, some put them 
in the press without heavy pressure ; in this case, 
they have to be changed like a shawl to get the 
edges that lie outside the press pass inside with 
another press. 

SPOT-REMOVER. 

This spot liquor should be in use by every cleaner, 
as it will do more for them than all other things put 
together. 

Spot-liquor formulae will here be given for the use 
of those who purchase this book, and for their use 
only, as no one will be permitted to make it for 
sale, or for presents to others, as the proprietor 
reserves all rights to himself, which are protected. 
As it is put up in one-gallon jars at $2, half-gallon 
jars at $1, one quart at 50 cents, safely packed and 
delivered to express office at that price to the trade, 
or in three-dozen-bottle cases, of the price named 
on label, which label is on every jar and bottle, 
this case will be sold to the trade at one-half price, 
so they can retail it without interfering with their 
business, as customers are likely to use it only on 
small jobs the cleaner would be as well without. 
And a good bit maybe made by its sale. For those 
who do not wish to make it themselves, the one- 
gallon jar will be likely to last them the season. 



104 



TO MAKE ONE-QUART SPOT-REMOVER. 

Take one-half ouDce each of glycerine, alcohol 
and sulphuric ether and pure oil soap, with two 
ounces aqua ammonia, with one quart of distilled 
water. Agitate the whole from day to day until the 
whole is one aqueous liquid, with the soap fully dis- 
solved. In many cases the cleaner will find that 
one part spot-remover and four parts water will be 
quite strong enough, so that it is an exceedingly 
cheap as well as useful article to have by one. 

Since the preliminary announcement that this 
book was about to be published I have had inquiries 
on all hands to know if a good cotton black will be 
there, showing that such a thing is needed. 

Up to the time of going to press a good, cheap 
aniline black has not transpired ; failing to find 
such, just as soon as I get the time, after getting a 
rest from the publication of this book, I will turn 
my attention to a method of fixing my brilliant wool 
black on cotton. If I can get as good color on 
cotton as it does on wool I shall be pleased to make 
it known to my friends. Till then I can only refer 
them to the formula given for one-dip vegetable 
cotton black, that will produce a good color on 
cotton or mixed goods, but requires a lot of washing 
off to clean it. 

The fast cotton black on my list at $1.75 per 
pound is too expensive for the garment dyer on his 
ordinary work, but if he has absolutely fast blacks 
to dye on cotton goods he must charge such a price 
that will pay. I will here give two formulas for it. 
The price one firm, who is doing this work in this 
city, asked for the formula was $350, and they 
would take no less ; neither of the others would sell 
it at any price, so the purchaser of this book will 
get it cheap. 



105 



ABSOLUTELY FAST COTTON BLACK FOR 
ONE HUNDRED POUNDS. 

Prepare a bath of five pounds each carbonate ot 
potash and common salt and five pounds benzo 
black; enter yarn and boil one hour; lift, wash 
and wring. 

Prepare second bath of thirty pounds extract of 
sumac; boil one hour; lift, cool and wring. 

Prepare third bath of twelve pounds nitrate of 
iron ; enter cold, give four turns ; lift and wring. It 
does not say wash off. I think this must be an 
omission. 

Add fifteen pounds more extract sumac to second 
bath; enter, give six turns at the boil; lift, wring 
and return to third bath cold, give four turns, wring 
and soften in a fresh bath at 130° F. of ten pounds 
turkey red oil, wring and dry. 

For all succeeding lots use only one-half the 
quantity of carbonate of soda and salt, and three and 
one-half pounds benzo black. It is said fresh sumac 
must be used every time. I should think that if it 
was washed from the iron baths, the same would do 
with one-half the quantities added, as the iron must 
kill the sumac. — Textile Colorist, April, 1889. 

SECOND PLAN. 

ANOTHER FORMULA FOR BENZO BLACK, 
ONE HUNDRED POUND GOODS. 

For Blue Black. — Prepare a bath of four pounds 
carbonate of potash, two pounds oil soap, three and 
one-half pounds color; enter goods at the boil, and 
boil one hour, then wash off thoroughly. 

For Jet Black. — Pass the above through a cold 
bath of six pounds nitrate of iron and twenty-five 
pounds sumac. 



106 



THIRD PLAN. 



After the dye bath pass into bath of cold water, 
into which six pounds nitrate of iron has been 
added, let lie in this for one and one-half hours, 
giving a turn now and then ; well wash off. Then 
make a bath of twenty-five pounds best sumac, let 
lie in this all night, lift in the morning, and handle 
again in the same iron liquor. Then, without rinsing, 
enter again the same sumac bath, give several turns 
and well wash off. 

A deeper black still is gotten by adding some 
extract of fustic to the first sumac bath. 

Remarks. — The second plan given would be rather 
expensive to the garment dyer, but if the same can be 
borne for fine work, it will look well, as benzo black, 
does not take on wool. 

Cotton in wool goods can be filled up a navy blue 
by only using the first bath of the second formula, 
leaving out the iron and sumac. 

DYEING SILK BLACK WITH ANILINE. 



FRIEDR. BAYER & CO., ELBERFELD. 

One Hundred Pounds Silk.— Prepare a bath with 
ten pounds Glauber salts, one and one-half pounds 
diamond black and one and one-half pounds diamond 
green. It does not s&y what heat. I therefore infer 
good hand heat ; as hot as can be borne is best till 
the color is taken up. 

Then prepare a bath of bichromate of potash two 
pounds ; enter at boiling and turn for one-half 
hour. 

FOR BLUE BLACK. 

Use three pounds diamond black and no green. 

FOR GREEN BLACK. 

Use diamond green and no diamond black. 



107 



THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 

To Cure Chrome Goods Over-mordanted. — After too 
much chrome is in woolen goods they will not come 
black. To cure this, add small quantity of chromate 
of potash to the logwood and bath and re-enter 
goods. 

lo Cure Button-holes, White Threads, etc., on Dyed 
Goods. — Dip the end of a match in ink and go over 
till they are a good color. Do this after pressing ; 
your damper will not then get stained. 

To Improve Dyed Black Velvets and Velveteen. — Often, 
when dyed or re-dyed, they have a poor, h angry 
look. To remove this, when they are finished give 
them a good brush down with benzine of 65 
gravity, this has less gas but more oil than the 
higher grade. It is a good dressing and cures that 
hungry look. Sweet oil is used by some, but lints 
and clust will stick after it and in time turns offensive. 
Benzine has only a good effect. 

To Prepare Wool or Woolen Goods so they will Dye 
in the Sweet or Neutral Colors and be Perfectly Fast. — 
A most valuable recipe. — Neutral colors to stand full- 
ing, etc. : For one hundred pounds of goods, prepare 
with eight pounds spirits of salts, eight pounds hypo- 
sulphate of soda, at 180° F. for one hour. Drain, 
but not wash. Then enter bath of four ounces of aqua 
ammonia cold, well open, then drain; no need to 
wash. Then dye in the usual manner with Victoria 
blue, fuchsine, green crystal, Bismarck or neutral 
brown and violet. None of them will crack after 
this preparation. It will fix all the mixed neutral 
colors just the same. 



108 

Bleaching with sulphur has already been given. 
For those who have no sulphur-house I give the 
following process : — 

To Bleach White Goods without Sulphur. — For twenty- 
two pounds wool or woolen goods: To a beck of 
sufficient size to handle in, three parts fill with 
water, add four and one-half pounds spirits of salts, 
and eleven pounds bisulphate of soda. This creates 
a sulphurous acid when well stirred up; into this 
enter the goods and open well; some let remain in 
for six hours, but less time will do. Tint it with 
indigo and 6 B violet which has been dissolved and 
well strained through flannel. This is a good 
imitation of the sulphur process, with this advantage, 
it has no disagreeable odor, and there is no fear of 
injury. The same bath will do for other lots by 
adding to it, each lot. 

KID-GLOVE DYEING. 

See that all holes are stopped up, then fix the 
tops by using a thin gum or white of an egg. This 
will stick them closed so the dye does not get into 
them. Boil one pound logwood in two quarts of 
water until it gets one quart. To this add a little 
oil soap, and when blood heat brush it over. Hang 
up to dry and go on with the others; when through 
commence again, and repeat till black; when dry, 
brush over with black pyrolignite of iron or chrome. 
When dry open them, and dress them with beeswax 
or oil very lightly, then rub clean with soft cloths 
till nothing comes off. There are many other ways 
of doing them, but the best way is to send them out 
and get them done by regular glove dyers. They 
can be done at 15 cents a pair, you pay mailing one 
way and they back. If you have no one to do them 
I will recommend A. D. Eyre & Co., Jersey City 
Heights, K". J. They have done mine for some time 
past with perfect satisfaction. See advertisement. 



109 



FINISHING COMPOUNDS. 

It is well known that silks, when washed, are not 
nearly so stout and full as before, but the cause ia 
not well known. It lies here — new silks gets 
stuffed. 

lirst. — It is dyed, or, if white, finished off in 
cleaning in a soap bath. 

Second. — White and all light goods are given a 
compound of glycerine, sugar, and gum. This gives 
the fulness without the rattle. Equal parts of each 
may be used and the same fulness restored. As this 
compound is transparent, it can be used for any 
color. Gum alone makes it too stiff, but sugar 
makes it less so ; the glycerine perfects it, as that 
always keeps supple. Gum alone is preferable to 
glue, as this is too brittle and easily creases. Dextrine 
is also superior to glue, as it will give more body and 
yet be softer. As this has some color, is does not do 
so well for light shades as first compound. Linseed 
meal, boiled and strained, gives a good body and is 
soft. 

TO IMPROVE BLACK SILKS OVER-DYED. 

First. — Give them a weak sour in warm water. 

Second. — Beat up sweet oil in soda liquor until it 
becomes a white liquor, then add a little oil soap and 
wash through at a hand heat ; squeeze out, but not 
wring. 

Third. — Fresh milk in warm water will produce 
good effects; about one pint milk to four warm 
water ; it will also stiffen it at the same time. Cotton, 
or cotton and mixed goods, over-dyed, comes up 
good this way. 

See also starch process for finishing. 



110 



TEST FOR SOAP. 



Twenty p^rts are dissolved in water, and then 
mixed with five parts of dilated sulphuric acid. 

The fat will then rise to the top, and the mineral 
impurities fall to the bottom. In this way the most 
flagrant adulterations can be detected. 



FINEST ELASTIC STARCH. 

You can buy it or make it as follows : Melt one 
pound stearine, and when cold powder it, and mix 
with fifteen pounds of starch. 



BERLIN BRILLIANT DRESSING STARCH. 

Mix from two to two and a half pounds of borax 
with one hundred pounds of starch made from wheat. 



TO EXTRACT PAINT AND TAR. 

Benzoline is no doubt as good a solvent as can be 
found. If woolen goods, moisten the spot, then 
rub, and moisten and rub again until out. For 
silk, lay it on a tea tray and sponge it out, or use a 
hand brush. If there is much on the garment, it 
may first be plastered over with fresh butter or lard 
to soften it. Spirits of wine, or methylated spirits, 
is used by some in lieu of benzoline. Pure naphtha, 
or benzine, is the same thing as benzoline. 



TO EXTRACT WAX TALLOW SPOTS. 

Dip in benzoline, and rub them, and they will 
quickly disappear. Alcohol may be used instead of 
benzoline. 



Ill 



SCORCHING 



white goods. Rub well with linen rags dipped in 
chlorine water. Colored cottons, re-dye, if possible, 
or in woolens raise a fresh surface. Silks, no 
remedy. 



TO REMOVE NITRATE OF SILVER STAINS 

from woolen or linen cloths of any kind. Iodine, 
one drachm; iodide of potassium, one ounce, mix. 
Dab the stains with the above mixture, and in about 
half a minute wash with one ounce of cyanide of 
potassium, in five gallons of water. 



SURE TEST FOR ARCHIL. 

The best re-agent for the detection of aniline red 
is picric acid, in extract of archil diluted with water. 
It occasions no precipitate, but, if aniline red has 
been added, it gives a strong brown precipitate, the 
picrate of rosaline. In this way very small per- 
centages of aniline red or violet may be detected. 

If the proportion is very small, the precipitate 
remains suspended for a long time, and the liquid 
appears almost clear by transmitted light. But by 
reflected light, the precipitate appears as a turbid 
brown, which does not subside for some days. 



WATER TESTS. 

As good results in cleaning, bleaching and dyeing 
depend so much upon the quality of the water em- 
ployed, care should be taken before locating to fully 
test it. 



112 

The following tests may, therefore, be helpful : — 

Test for Hard or Soft. — Dissolve a small quantity 
of good soap in alcohol. Let a few drops fall into 
a glass of the water. If it turns milky, it is hard ; 
if not, it is soft. 

Test for Earthy Matters or Alkali. — Take litmus 
paper, dipped in vinegar, and if on immersion the 
paper returns to its blue shade, the water contains 
earthy matter or alkali. If a few drops of syrup of 
violets be added to a water containing an earthy 
matter, it will turn green. 

Test for Carbonic Acid. — Take equal parts of water 
and clear lime-water. If combined, or free carbonic 
acid is present, a precipitate is seen, to which, if a 
few drops of muriatic acid be added, an effervescence 
commences. 

Test for Iron. — Boil a little nutgall and add it to 
the water; if it turns gray or slate-black, iron is 
present. 

Second. — Dissolve a little prussiate of potash, and, 
if iron is present, it will turn blue. 

Test for Copper. — If present, it will turn a piece of 
bright polished steel a copper color. 

Second. — A few drops of ammonia will turn it blue, 
if copper be present. 

Test for Lead. — Take sulphurated gas water and 
equal quantity of water to be tested ; if it contains 
lead, it will turn a blackish brown. 

Second. — The same result will take place if sul- 
phurate of ammonia be used. 

Test for Sulphur. — In a bottle of water add a little 
quicksilver; cork it for six hours, and if it looks 
dark on the top, and on shaking looks blackish, it 
proves the presence of sulphur. 



113 

Test for Magnesia. — Boil the water to a twentieth 
part of its weight, and then drop a few grains of 
neutral carbonate of ammonia into a glass of it, and 
a few drops of phosphate of soda. If magnesia be 
present, it will fall to the bottom. 

Test for Lime. — Into a glass of the water put two 
drops of oxalic acid, and blow upon it; if it gets 
milky, lime is present. 

Test for Acid. — Take a piece of litmus paper ; if 
it turns red, there must be acid. If it precipitates 
on adding lime-water, it is carbonic acid. If a blue 
sugar-paper is turned red, it is a mineral acid. 

TO SOFTEN HARD WELL WATER. 

Hard lime containing w T ater for washing, bleach- 
ing and dyeing factories, is easiest made soft and 
free from lime by the addition of spirits of sal- 
ammoniac. For each one thousand litres (two hun- 
dred and sixty-four gallons) water take one-quarter 
litre (0.52 pint) spirits of sal-ammoniac of a strength 
of 0.960. Let the water settle over night, and next 
morning, by a faucet, drain off the clear water above 
the sediment. 

An excellent water for dyeing, also, is obtained by 
passing steam through a vessel half filled with 
water, and heating it to 60° R, (167° F.). The 
carbonate of lime will deposit, in a short time, and 
a good water, pretty free from lime, is obtained by 
the use of the condensed steam. 



WASTE OCCASIONED BY HARD WATER. 

It has been found that one part of lime in soft 

soap, containing silicate of soda and starch, occasions 

the loss of 52.08 ; soft soap, containing 36.9 per 

cent, of water; neutral tallow curd soap, 19.80; 

8 



114 



cocoa-nut oil soap, watered, 61.40; glue soap, con- 
taining glycerine, 24.48. 

This shows that one-third cubic yards of ten 
degrees of hardness, or, what is the same thing", 
containing three and one-half ounces of lime, dis- 
solved, will destroy eight pounds of soft and two 
and one-half pounds of dry curd soap. 



PURIFICATION" OF WATER. 

It has been very aptly said a child may ask a 
question that would puzzle a philosopher to answer. 

This is apropos to the question of the purifica- 
tion of water, as so many attempts have been made 
to solve this knotty question, so as to render it fit 
for dyeing purposes, with only partial success. I 
say partial, as the ingredients used for the purpose, 
even supposing that they gain the end they are used 
for, yet leave something of their own presence 
behind, so that at best it is getting rid of the larger 
for the lesser nuisance, which, no doubt, is some- 
thing to be thankful for. I will, therefore, give my 
readers the benefit of the best-known plan for this 
purpose, and wait further developments, as — 

For every evil under the sun 
There is a remedy, or there is none. 
If there's one, try and find it, 
If not— never mind it. 

The first is chloride of iron and milk of lime. 

To prepare the chloride of iron take spirits of salts 
and add scrap iron as long as it dissolves without 
sediment, then pour off the clear liquor and use one- 
quarter pound of it to thirty-five cubic feet of the 
water or to about two hundred and ten gallons ; 
then about twelve ounces of lime are added, which 
will make it clear and transparent. The cost of this 
process may be partly recovered by using any 
deposits formed as manure. 



115 



Use one-quarter pound green copperas in place of 
the above. It is not generally known, but green 
copperas is a most excellent disinfectant, with this 
additional advantage, that it has no offensive smell. 
Throw it into a cesspool, or other nuisance, and it 
will soon neutralize it; moreover, it is a very chegp 
as well as safe remedy. Alum may be used in place 
of either of the foregoing, or conjointly with the 
copperas. Alum, dissolved in proportion of one 
grain to one gallon water, if let stand some time, 
will make it quite clear, fit for white goods or drink- 
ing purposes. 

Muriatic acid alone, will, in many cases, render 
good service in the proportion of two fluid ounces to 
one hundred gallons of water. Water that has been 
used at one factory and reaches the next, impure, 
even supposing it to have contained tannin or other 
dye washes, can be so treated by the above processes 
as to become quite usable. There is a more expen- 
sive process, namely, filtering all that is required. 
This may be done by several means, but, perhaps, 
the best is to erect clams and let the water flow over 
from one into the other. By this means it gets the 
opportunity to settle off much of its impurities, so 
that the last clam will be much cleaner than the first. 
Precaution must, of course, be taken in either case 
to remove all deposits as often as is required. 



FIRE-PROOF BUILDINGS. 

With ordinary care very few fires would occur, 
but the trouble is, you cannot get many employes to 
take just ordinary care, even though their own lives 
are in jeopardy by neglect thereof. Hence the 
necessity of providing buildings, especially for dry- 
cleaning and stove rooms, fireproof. It is well known 
that many buildings supposed to be fireproof proved 



116 



to be just the opposite. In most cases the cause oj 
failure was in the iron pillars, etc., getting heated, 
and instead of their resisting they actually accumu- 
lated and then communicated the heat, as iron will 
get and retain the heat for a long time, even till it 
becomes so warped that it falls and brings the build- 
ing down w T ith it. And then, if not before, setting 
everything combustible on fire, and being coveied 
up and thus protected from wind and water it still 
retains its heat and is the cause of after-outbreaks, 
when it was supposed the fire w r as out. 

Good, hard lumber is, therefore, to be preferred, 
as in very serious fires it has been found that such 
lumber has been only charred, and could be used again 
by being scraped, and if it fell while burning, the 
falling is likely to stop its going any farther. If 
possible, it is desirable to have a brick building for 
dry cleaning, separate from other buildings — the 
insurance will be less and the danger to other 
property less. The hard wood, as already referred 
to, should be used, and for further protection any 
exposed parts can be covered with Portland cement, 
which will considerably protect from flames. The 
other parts, if painted with silicate paint, which is 
made of ground or dissolved glass, will afford much 
resistance. If only a lumber building is used, it 
should be built of prepared lumber as follows : — 
Make a lumber trough the size of the lumber to be 
used, in which make" a preparation as follows : — 



Sal-ammoniac, 15 parts, 
Boric acid, 6 parts, 
Borax, 3 parts, 
Water, 100 parts. 



Make enough of this to lay your lumber in. Place 
rods on bottom, lay lumber on rods, then rod again, 
the lumber, etc., till nearly full ; then turn steam on 



117 



to the boil. Cover up and let boil for one hour, 
which will be time enough, for one-inch board, 
for superheated steam to penetrate it. When finished 
lay them as lumbermen do to dry ; now go on with 
another lot, etc., till you have enough. The same 
liquor will do many times with the chemicals added 
to it each time. Wood so prepared positively will 
not flame, so a fire could easily he put out, if it did 
occur, without communicating to other parts. If a 
fire does occur, shut all doors so that the draught 
shall not fan the flame, throw r sand, dirt, or ashes 
on; this will absorb benzine, oil or such things and 
so extinguish the flame. Don't pour water on, as 
that will not put it out but only scatter it, with the 
danger of setting other parts on fire. 

The fault of the preparation is, if it gets wet it partly 
loses its property of being fireproof. To prevent this 
paint over with the silicate paint as before men- 
tioned. It will then be waterproof and fireproof. 
If it is desired to use a lumber building already up, 
the hot solution can be applied several times with a 
brush, then when dry paint it. 



FIRE-PROOF BUILDINGS. 

Buildings used for dry cleaning should be of brick, 
with as little woodwork in them as possible, and 
separate some distance from other buildings, so that, 
in case of fire, less damage will be done. 

Iron pillars, girders, etc., should be avoided, as it 
has been found that oak and other wood will stand 
more heat and resistance than iron, which gets red 
hot, doubles up, and the building collapses. In the 
case of wood it more often gets only charred than 
burnt through, therefore, supports the building from 
collapse, and often such woodwork can be used 



118 

If exposed woodwork gets a casing of sand and 
cement plastered on, this affords very great resistance, 
and, apart from chemical preparations, is undoubt- 
edly the best protection. 

Silicate paint, being made from water glass, 
affords considerable resistance. It is applied like 
ordinary paint. 

INCOMBUSTIBLE WOOD. 

Few people want to build substantial stone or 
brick buildings upon other people's property. In 
such case lumber should be prepared as follows : — 

In large wood tank to every one hundred parts of 
water add fifteen parts sal-ammoniac, six parts 
boracic acid, three parts borax. Bring on steam to 
a boil till dissolved, lay lumber in so the liquor can 
get to all parts of it, fix a cover over and get up all 
the heat you can for one-half hour at least. Then 
take out and lay it in dry place like a lumber mer- 
chant would for drying; use same proportions in next 
and following lots. Posts, etc., require longer 
preparation. 

When dry you can put such prepared wood on a 
red-hot fire and prove that it will not flame. So it 
would never scatter or communicate to any other 
part of the building, as under the greatest heat it 
will only char and crumble away, but not flame. 

The greatest drawback to it is, if it gets wet it 
partly washes out ; to prevent this, paint it inside and 
out with the silicate paint; it will then be fire and 
waterproof. 

If the lumber building is already up, good effects 
can be obtained by using the liquor described boil- 
ing hot with a whitewash brush, going over two or 
three times from each drying. 

For drying rooms and lots of purposes the above 
formula is invaluable, and lessens insurance charges. 



119 



USEFUL COLORS FOR GARMENT DYERS. 

Neutral or Sweet Colors. 

Fuchsine Best Crystals $1 25 

Chrysoidine, Y or R 75 

Neutral Cardinal (darker 
and yellower than Fuch- 
sine 1 15 

Garnet (darker than Car- 
dinal) 1 25 

Bismarck (Red or Yellow) 75 

Neutral Brown 1 10 

Seal Brown 1 25 

Brilliant Green (Neutral).. 1 25 



Violet $1 50 

Olive Green 1 25 

Bronze Green 1 25 

Plumb Color 1 50 

Bright Blue (on green a red 

shade, will dye from 4 B 

to dark shade) 1 50 

Navy Blue 1 50 

All the above will dye on 
silk and wool. 

Cotton must be mordanted. 



FAST COLORS FOR SILK AKD WOOL. 



Fast 

Scarlet, any shade $0 

Cardinal (has no equal)... 

Canary Color 1 

Strong Yellow 

Orange (any shade) 

Wine Color 

Mahogany and Terra- Cotta 

Garnet , 

Green (fineshade) 1 

Medium and Bottle Green.. 1 
Olive and Bronze Green.... 1 



Acid Colors. 

50 Blue 4 B Shade $1 50 

75 Navy (any shade) 1 50 

00 Golden Brown (fine) 1 00 

75 This is an extraordinary good 

50 thing, as it will dye a fine tan 

75 color, golden brown, medium 

75 brown, down to a full yellow 

75 shade of seal brown. Please 

25 try it. 

25 All the above dye in an acid 

00 bath. 



TO CLEAN COLORED FELT HATS 

proceed in the same manner as for white, only use 
dry bran or naphtha, and holding the hat over the 
bowl, with a sponge keep going over it, allowing 
it to drip off back into the bowl. When clean take 
cloths and rub till dry. Then expose to sweeten. 



TO CLEAN DARK OR BLACK FELTS OR 
SILK HATS, 

well wash them with benzine, a sponge, or if very 
dirty, with a hard brush till clean, and wipe them 
dry with a colored cloth so as not to get lint into them. 
Hang them up for a time till the scent is gone. 



120 



TO CLEAN WHITE FELT HATS, 

keep rubbing them with dry magnesia or plaster of 
paris. Some use flour or pipe clay. They are 
rubbed till quite clear, taking care to retain the 
shape. Then pat the dust out. 



GOOD SCOURING SOAP. 

Take fifty pounds of Greenbank pure caustic 
potash in an earthen or metal vessel with nine gal- 
lons of water (ninety pounds), stir it twice, it will 
then become quite hot; let it stand till cold. Place 
in another vessel twenty-two and one-half gallons 
of cotton-seed oil, pour the dissolved potash very 
slowly upon the oil, well stirring it all the time till 
they are perfectly combined, and in appearance like 
honey. Now cover it up andjput it in a warm place 
till next day ; then stir up again and let it stay three 
days, when it will be quite even. The result yield- 
ing about three hundred and forty-five pounds of 
very stifl potash soap, more concentrated than fig 
soap. 

TO MAKE SOFT SOAP. 

Take two hundred pounds of the above soap, add 
to it seven gallons (seventy pounds) water, put it 
into a pan and gently heat it up, stirring it all the 
time. When well-mixed add seven pounds of 
crystal carbonate of potash ; this will remove all 
stringiness and produce a clear homogeneous soap. 

The above cold process is both simple and effect- 
ive ; any one can make either small or large lot by 
it. It is in all respects far preferable for wool scour- 
ing than the ordinary soda soap, as the wool scoured 
by it will be both whiter and softer. 

Linseed oil, tallow or grease can be used in part 
or entire in place of cotton-seed oil, if any of the 



121 

others are handier to get. One part of hemp-seed 
oil and one part of the cotton-seed oil will produce 
a color like olive oil soap. Potash, not soda, should 
be used both in making and using soaps for wool 
scouring. 

WASHING CRYSTALS. 

Many different preparations are sold under the 
above name, and a great deal is claimed for them. 
After giving a general outline of what they are 
composed of, I will then let the reader judge if they 
are of any value to him. 

Virmmelbern's Wool-/ cashing Composition. — Thirty- 
five parts of dried soda, ten parts of soap powder, 
ten parts of sal-ammoniac. 

Ward's Woo! Washer. — Ninety parts of effused 
soda crystal and ten parts of soap powder. 

The Universal Washing Powder. — A water glass 
containing soda with a small percentage of tallow 
soap and starch. 

Several, well advertised, are simply washing soda 
with from one to five per cent, of borax, while some 
even contain Glauber salts and others common salt. 

CURTAIN CLEANING. 

After they have been washed and limed in the 
wash-off water add just a few drops of sulphuric 
acid ; this will set the chlorine free so that they will 
not have so much scent left in them. And in the 
starch add a little borax; this will give them a 
better finish and neutralize any acid that may be 
left in them. 

TO STAIN CURTAINS BUFF, ECRU, ETC. 

If buff is required, add very sparingly No. 4 
orange and alum to the starch. For darker add 
boiled coffee, or No. 4 orange and Bismarck. 



122 



WONDERS OF ANILINE CHEMISTRY. 

Aniline colors are manufactured by treating one 
or more of three substances, viz., benzole, anthra- 
cine and naphthaline, with salts of copper, salt and 
other chemicals and acids, under various conditions 
of pressure and temperature. The benzole, anthra- 
cine and naphthaline are obtained from the decom- 
position of coal tar in the following proportions : 
From one hundred pounds of coal tar there are 
derived, benzole two and one-half to three pounds, 
anthracine one-quarter to one-half pound, naphtha- 
line six to eight pounds. 

There are thus derived from each one hundred 
pounds of tar from nine to twelve pounds of prod- 
ucts available for the purposes of aniline manufac- 
ture. Of these the most important is benzole, 
which is composed of twelve parts of carbon and 
six of hydrogen. It, therefore, offers the two fun- 
damental elements in proportions which, when 
combined with other elements by chemical pro- 
cesses, produce a great variety of brilliant coloring 
matters and practically perfect substitutes for 
numerous organic materials of large commercial 
value. 

Thus far in Europe the distillation of coal tar and 
the manufacture of aniline colors have not been 
combined by any one establishment. The manufac- 
ture of aniline materials from the tar is one branch 
of business; the production of colors from these 
materials is quite another. Aniline color-makers 
prefer the English benzole as being more rich and 
productive, although benzole is largely manufac- 
tured in France and Germany. The English prod- 
uct costs in London from $1 to $1.10 per gallon; 
that made on the Continent is somewhat cheaper. 

From anthracine, the second product of coal tar, 
is manufactured alizarine, the substance which has 
almost entirely superseded madder and destroyed 



123 



the profitable culture and sale of that comparatively 
expensive vegetable clyestuff throughout the world. 

From naphthaline is made the beautiful variety of 
light albo-carbon colors, so important in the reper- 
tory of modern dj T estuffs. 

There are now manufactured in the four large 
aniline color laboratories within the district of 
Basle, Switzerland, between forty and fifty different 
dyeing materials, which are variously used for color- 
ing silks, cotton, leather and other substances, as 
well as for the manufacture of colored writing and 
printing inks. Many of these colors are readily 
soluble in water, and unite perfectly with the goods 
without the use of a mordant; others are soluble in 
alcohol or water impregnated with acids, and still 
others require the use of mordants to render the 
color clear and permanent. The strength of color- 
ing capacity of some of these dyes is wonderful, a 
single grain or crystal of the solid pigment being 
enough to make a dve sufficient to color a large 
quantity of textile material. Another noticeable 
quality is the superior affinity of the aniline color 
for the fabric to be dyed. This is so positive that 
in many aniline dyes repeated immersions of silk, 
cotton, or wool take up the whole amount of color, 
leaving the water or spirit in which it was dissolved 
almost transparent and pure. 

The value of the recently discovered indigo sub- 
stitute will be apparent when it is remembered that 
while vegetable indigo costs at wholesale in Europe 
$3.20 per pound, this aniline substitute for it, which 
produces a scale of perfectly solid, permanent colors, 
can be created in exhaustless quantities and sold at 
a profit for 14 cents per pound. Even in India, 
where the culture of vegetable indigo has long 
been an important branch of agriculture, and in 
China and Japan, where the populartaste for color 
amounts to a passion, these aniline dyes are rapidly 
superseding all others, and a large proportion of the 



124 



colors manufactured in the district of Basle are sent 
directly to the remote East. 

From the American standpoint the whole subject 
of aniline chemistry is undoubtedly of the highest 
interest and importance. Coal tar, as well as the 
fuel and other materials used in the distillation of 
benzole, anthracite and naphthaline from that sub- 
stance, are all more cheap and abundant in the 
United States than in any part of Europe. The 
acids and chemicals required in producing aniline 
colors from the three products named may be some- 
what more costly at home than abroad, but the high 
duties which are at present levied on imported 
aniline colors will far more than compensate for 
this slight disadvantage. It is simply a question of 
how soon American capitalists will see their oppor- 
tunity, and by engaging practical and competent 
European chemists, establish this wonderful branch 
of manufacture on a large and profitable scale in 
our own country. In order to attain the best results 
the scope of a single firm should include the pro- 
duction of aniline materials from the tar, as well as 
the manufacture of colors from these materials by 
the methods already in use. 

The production of benzole from the refuse of 
petroleum was discovered about three years ago by 
a professor of chemistry in the Polytechnic School 
at Zurich. His process consisted in passing the 
petroleum vapor over a surface of heated bricks 
or tiles; but just at the moment of success the over- 
worked brain of the chemist became deranged, and 
in a fit of temporary madness he committed suicide, 
leaving the only knowledge of his discovery with a 
clever young student who had served as his assist- 
ant in the laboratory. The student resumed the 
experiments, attained what was regarded a practi- 
cally successful result, patented the discovery in the 
United States, and has recently established a labora- 
tory there with capital furnished from Basle, to 



125 



develop his process on a commercial scale. It is 
believed by those in the best position to know all 
the facts that the success of this enterprise is already 
demonstrated. 

Within the past few months some notable dis- 
coveries have greatly enlarged the scope of aniline 
production. From benzole, as derived from petro- 
leum, there are now produced, in experimental quan- 
tities, extracts of vanilla and cinnamon, which are 
chemically identical with the same extracts produced 
from natural vegetable materials. Not only this, 
but the German chemists have essayed to produce 
quinine by similar methods, and have already 
attained results that warrant their confident expecta- 
tion of early and complete success. 

There is now in process of organization in Central 
Europe a company with large capital to establish in 
the United States a manufactory of flavoring extracts 
and substitutes for various vegetable drugs from 
aniline materials. 

The circumstances under which this information 
has been obtained preclude a more detailed allusion 
to the subject in this connection, but the mere state- 
ment of the fact should be sufficient to show the 
rapidly broadening field of aniline chemistry and 
indicate its future possible importance as a source 
of wealth in the United States. All these discoveries 
are of vast commercial value, and are, as a matter 
of course, carefully guarded. 

The earliest fruits of such inventions will be 
inevitably harvested, even in the United States, by 
European capitalists and their chemists, who are so 
far in advance of their American competitors in this 
whole field of research ; but it is contrary to the 
traditions of American enterprise that our country 
should remain permanently dependent upon foreign- 
ers for what can readily be manufactured at home. 
It is asserted, with what truth I am unable to judge, 
that in so far as the manufacture of aniline colors 



126 



has been attempted in the United States the result 
has been more or less unsatisfactory, the home-made 
dyes being inferior in quality to those imported from 
Europe. If this is true, the only cause for it must 
be want of experience and skill in the process of 
manufacture. — Report of Consul Mason. 

The author can now add it is a pleasing fact that, 
after several defeats, some anilines are now made 
in this country equal to any imported. 



THE SO-CALLED DRY DYEING WITH 
BENZINE. 

Patented by Messrs. Armand & Berton. 

Take oleic acid, stearic acid, margaric acid, or the 
acid used by the inventors, add the desired aniline 
dye, and shake the mixture until the aniline dye 
dissolves. According to the nature of the dissolved 
stuff, next add a certain quantity of volatile alkali, or 
a concentrated solution of soda or potash, or 
sulphuric ether, and pour the mixture into benzine, 
whereby most admirable colors are obtained. The 
same purpose may also be obtained in the following 
manner : — 

The oleic acid and the dissolved color are poured 
into benzine, which has previously been saturated 
with volatile alkali, a solution of potash or soda, or 
sulphuric ether. 

[The aniline factory of Berlin prepares aniline 
dyes only soluble in fats or oils, benzine, etc.] 



MORDANTS AND DYE WARES. 

Pity it is that so much confusion arises from the 
numerous names given to the same dye wares, and 
to the same shades of colors. Surely it is high time 
that some joint action was taken by the leading 



127 



technical schools to correct the mistake of having 
so many names to one thing, or one shade, or if there 
must be a plurality of names at least let them refer 
to the one thing or one shade. As it is, one may 
read a formula for cardinal, and unless it is accom- 
panied with the shade it produces, it may mean any- 
thing from a ponceau to a claret. So much 
divergency of opinion exists, even in the United 
States that I often have to send and ask what shade 
is meant by the name employed. That some diffi- 
culty would be met in the task I am willing to 
grant, more especially in reference to the shades, 
yet that it is insurmountable I cannot accede to, as 
take blue for instance, which I here select because 
of its more numerous shades than perhaps any other 
color. Yet the difficulty could be gotten over by 
numbering the shades, so as to make a standard of 
reference, it may be from 1 to 100, or even to 1000 
if the case required it, the same to be recognized at 
least in the same country, if practicable for every 
country. It would then be easy to say No. — in 
blue can be dyed by such and such means. Every 
one could then look and see if that was the shade 
he required. I believe the paint trade has a stand- 
ard of colors. 

Every one has not had the advantage of a chemical 
education who even against this disadvantage have 
by dint of perseverance made their mark; the fact 
being that a chemical knowledge was not considered 
essential to a dyer by the majority of the trade thirty 
years ago. It is quite true a man may make a good 
dyer without it, but the same man would have 
made a better one with it, and be saved many annoy- 
ances of trying this and that formula which, contain- 
ing no true assimilation or agreement, therefore 
proved abortive. As it would also often save one 
the bother of finding out what a certain chemical 
means, as an example I will mention two cases. A 
formula called for half an ounce of hydrochloric 



128 



acid (the term often used in bleaching), the man 
went to his druggist and paid twenty cents for it, 
afterwards finding that he had plenty of it in his 
store, only called by the less pretentious names of 
muriatic acid or spirits of salts. The other called 
for a few drachms of muriate of soda. For this he 
had to pay fifteen cents, and afterwards was morti- 
fied to find it was only common salt. Thanks for 
the fact, chemistry is now appreciated as a help to 
dyeing, and those who avail themselves of it will be 
employed for their brain power, while those who do 
not will be employed for their machine power. Let 
any young man who may read my book remember 
that when house is gone and money spent then learn- 
ing is most excellent. American young men would 
make good chemists if they only liked application 
better. Why is it that nearly all the chemists here are 
Germans ? For the reason that the American boy 
loves play and going around better than reputation 
for practical study. If this state of things continues 
it will be very mortifying to find in a few years that 
the born American has allowed the strangers to fill 
all the best positions in the technical arts and 
sciences of his own native land. To be well warned 
should be to be well armed. 

" Scarcely a European exchange comes to us," 
says an American textile journal, "in which we do 
not read of the wonderful results attained year after 
year, generation after generation, from the excellent 
technical schools, which are patronized by so many 
thousands of intelligent young men. Germany, 
particularly, seems destined to be Europe's industrial 
teacher. More than ever, a large number of foreign- 
ers participate in the practical studies. Belgium 
comes next ; recent statistics show that she has 
rapidly developed her industrial schools and counts 
now fifty-nine technical and thirty-two industrial, 
not mentioning her commercial high schools. Surely 
some one of our philanthropists and wealthy textile 



129 



manufactures could immortalize his name by giving 
a foundation to such an institute. When are we going 
to learn?" 

MORDANTS, THEIR NATURE, AND HOW 
TO MAKE THEM. 

OIL MORDANTS FOR ANILINE COLORS. 

Say two pounds of oil are agitated with seven and 
one-half of alcohol, seven and one-half water are 
added and one-half sulphuric acid. The whole must 
he thoroughly mixed to an emulsion before use. In 
France, where alcohol is dear, the acid is added 
directly to the oil, then the water poured in, and 
the whole agitated. 

TANNIN AS A MORDANT, AND HOW TO 
MAKE. 

Tannin, as Dr. K. M. Kurtz observes in the Wurt 
Groltt, came largely into the dyeing trade as a mor- 
dant for cotton, union cloth, silk, mixed silk, arti- 
ficial wool, etc., and justly so, for while the dyer, 
by using other tannin materials as sumac, galls, 
myrobalans, divi divi (articles of which the value 
varies according to the degree of maturity, the time 
of plucking, the method of drying, etc.), is com- 
pelled to crush, grind, powder, sift, boil and filter 
them. Tannin, which is a constant product of uni- 
form composition, can be dissolved in water without 
further preparation. Tannin is certainly not cheaper, 
but much time, labor, and other incidental expenses 
are saved by its use, and it works cleaner. One 
pound of tannin represents the effect of about forty 
pounds of sumac, eighteen pounds of myrobalans, 
fourteen pounds of divi divi, and eleven pounds of 
galls, besides which from five to seven per cent, of 



130 



dyestuff is economized ; hence, it arises that upon 
tanned goods the color comes out purer and brighter 
in an unequalled degree. Commercial tannin is now 
prepared chiefly from so-called Chinese and Japan- 
ese galls (from sumac). These are well dried, con- 
verted in a stamping mill to the finest powder, 
which is extracted four times systematically with a 
mixture of three or four times its weight of the best 
rectified alcohol and ether, in small or large cylin- 
drical vessels of tin plate, kept in agitation by hand 
or mechanical means. The alcoholic solution is 
then distilled off by steam in a copper retort, and 
the remaining tannin taken up in about double or 
three times the quantity of hot condensation water, 
and set aside for a day. There now separates a 
rather considerable quantity of a green, resinous 
body insoluble in water, on the surface of the tannin 
solution, from which it is drawn off. If the solution 
is not clear, it may be passed through a charcoal 
filter. It is now evaporated in a double-cased boiler 
in the steam bath till the water is driven off. As a 
tannin solution in the air, particularly if hot, 
darkens strongly, the access of the air is to be 
restricted as much as possible, and for this a copper 
vacuum apparatus is recommended. When the 
water is driven off the thick fluid tannin is poured 
into moulds of tin plate, where it is left to stiffen, 
after which it is powdered in the so-called indigo 
mills with cannon-balls and sifted, as it is usually 
required in commerce, as a fine powder, which 
quickly dissolves. The more ether is employed in 
the extraction of the galls in proportion to the 
alcohol, the whiter is the tannin. Alcohol alone 
dissolves a considerable amount of dyestuff. Water 
cannot be used for a first extract, as it dissolves too 
much dye and other foreign substance, which can- 
not then be separated from the solution. For many 
technical purposes a tannin prepared alone with a 
spirit of high degree is as valuable as that prepared 



131 



with alcoholic ether, to which a smell of ether obsti- 
nately adheres. The consumption of tannin besides 
being largely used in pharmacy, in the wine and 
beer pathology, is at present very much on the 
increase, and its production is a very profitable 
branch of many chemical manufactories. Many 
dyers combine with the employment of tannin that 
of so-called oil or animal mordants (olein sulphate 
of ammonia) which gives more fire to the color, 
especially carmine, and thus leads to an economy of 
dyeing material. The preparation is simple. In a 
large dish, to about sixty pounds of best cottonseed 
oil are added thirty pounds of sulphuric acid, at 
66° B. with gradual stirring. The mass be- 
comes heated, evolves much sulphurous acid, and 
is stirred till it becomes quite homogeneous, when 
the mixture (the olein sulphuric acid) has cooled 
again, so much dilute spirit of ammonia is added 
with continued stirring, that the remaining liquor 
smells of it, weighs about five cwt., and presents a 
homogeneous bright, yellow, soapy paste, but whether 
the above preparation, in proportion to its effect, 
will not become too dear. Dr. Kurtz cannot decide. 



THE APPLICATION OF TANNIC ACID AND 
GLUE FOR FIXING ANILINE COLORS. 

The fixing of aniline colors on vegetable fibres is 
far more difficult than on animal fibres, as in the 
former case mordants are always requisite, but in 
the latter they are mostly unnecessary or of secondary 
importance. Wool is often more beautifully and 
vividly dyed with aniline colors, without mordanting, 
and the mordants are used chiefly either for the 
purpose o± attaining a higher temperature in the dye 
bath, or to give the dyestuff greater permanency, 
but especially also to avoid the unevenness which so 
easily occurs with aniline dyes upon wool. 



182 



Cotton and linen fibres will not combine with tar 
colors without a mordanting medium; and it is 
necessary, in all cases, to look out for materials 
which are capable of rendering the soluble aniline 
dyes insoluble on the fibres. The series is by no 
means small, and it is only a question to decide 
which of the mordants used in practice is the most 
advantageous, and will yield at the same time the 
finest and cheapest colors. This question cannot 
well be decided by experiments on a small scale. It 
is only by operating with large quantities, and by 
manufacturing processes, that results are obtained 
which lead to a correct decision. The dyer in fine 
colors will, for the most part, have no opportunity to 
decide which is the most suitable method for fixing 
aniline colors upon cotton. In this question the 
productiveness of the bath employed must be well 
considered, and their value be deducted from the 
total cost in the calculation of the materials used. 

It would lead too far to discuss here the various 
methods of fixing aniline colors. They have nearly 
all been displaced by the method of mordanting with 
tannic acid ; and many expert practical men have, 
by this time, decided that tannic acid is the medium 
to be preferred to all other mordants for dyeing with 
aniline colors on cotton. This is specially the case 
with magenta and aniline green (iodine green). 
These two dyestuffs yield, with tannic acid, beauti- 
fully-colored and completely insoluble combinations; 
and thus tannin answers most fully the purpose of a 
genuine mordant. Tannin is, nevertheless, a tol erably 
expensive preparation, and, consequently, an effort 
should be made to find a substitute for it — a mordant 
which either renders it quite superfluous or admits of 
some economy in its use. The materials hitherto 
proposed — oleic and stearic acids in soaps, etc. — do 
not satisfy the requirements, and it is not likely that 
a substitute will easily be found to displace tannin 
entirely. A long series of experiments on a large 



133 



scale has led to the conviction that tannin (either 
pure or in sumac) is, temporarily at least, indispen- 
sable. On the other hand, tannic acid may he 
considerably economized by combining it with size 
before dyeing, and thus using tannin and size at the 
same time as a mordant. In order, then, to produce 
a certain tint with magenta or iodine green, or any 
other aniline color, far less tannin is required. In 
fact, the same result may be obtained with half the 
tannin which is obtained with double the quantity, 
without the use of size, as the following experiment 
will illustrate : In the first place the cotton was 
dipped in a tannic-acid bath, then divided into two 
parts, the one drawn through a weak solution of size 
or gelatine, and the other dyed directly in a bath of 
known concentration at a certain temperature. The 
portion drawn through the solution of size was then 
dyed in a bath exactly similar, and the two samples 
were then compared. 

The cotton mordanted with tannin and size was 
by far more fully and deeply dyed, and it may be 
affirmed that, by using a size bath after the tannin 
bath, the latter may be used much weaker than when 
tannin alone is used for fixing the dyestuff. In this 
way tannic acid may be economized to a considerable 
extent. By diluting the tannic solution more and 
more, and comparing the results with tannin and 
size, and with tannin alone, a point is reached in 
which both operations yield exactly the same shades. 
When this point is reached, by comparing the degree 
of concentration of both tannin baths, it may be 
determined what the saving of tannin has been ; this 
depends much upon the quality of the tannin, so 
that the experiments have not yet yielded a result 
which could be reduced to figures. The samples of 
tannin obtained from different sources gave different 
results ; and, in one case, a greater saving could be 
effected with the use of the size bath, and in another, 
comparatively less, Evidently a combination takes 



134 

place between the size and the tannic acid, which 
then acts on the dyestuff of the aniline differently 
from the tannin alone. 

The following extract from the Chemical Review 
shows that a much cheaper mordant than tannin has 
been found, as follows : — 

MORDANT FOR ANILINE COLOKS ON 
COTTON. 

Until recently, aniline colors have been fixed on 
cotton by treatment with animal matter, as albumen, 
gelatine, or with galls, sumac, tannin, as well as by 
the use of mordants of acetate of alumina, soap, and 
oil. Dr. Reiman, however, directs attention to the 
peculiar power possessed by starch of abstracting 
aniline colors from solutions. This is not due to the 
gluten it contains, since this property is shared 
equally by wheat and potato starch ; and he founded 
upon this a beautiful method for fixing aniline colors 
on cotton. It is immaterial whether the color is 
attracted by the starch suspended in the liquid or 
attached to the fibre. If the cotton is saturated 
with a thin paste of potato or wheat starch and 
steeped in a dye bath of aniline color, it will receive 
the corresponding shade. 

MORDANTS FOR ANILINE COLORS. 

Many things have been introduced from time to 
time, with more or less success, to enable cotton 
goods to take up the colors quickly and brightly. 

The following are the various mordants and their 
results : Sumac has always found more or less favor, 
and questionably it has its advantages. It is cheap, 
the liquor can be used for other purposes; and most 
dyers know how to use it, but are afraid to discon- 
tinue its use in favor of a new thing of which they 
know but little. 



135 



Stannate of soda ; the principal advantage claimed 
for this is that it leaves the goods whiter than sumac, 
it does not require much, or, indeed, any rinsing. 
On the other hand, it is considered dearer than the 
former, and it does not stand exposure well. In 
articles of dress, garment dyers are often requested 
to retain black stripes and spots that may be in the 
goods, which stannate in a great measure discharges. 
It certainly rots the work to some extent, and I have 
found in its use black spots formed upon the work, 
similar to those found occasionally by the tin process 
in cochineal scarlet dyeing. 



METHYLATED SPIRIT AS A MORDANT. 

As this takes about eight cents' worth to about 
twelve yards of dress material, it is generally con- 
sidered too dear. But it is clean, works tolerably 
even, and it retains stripes, spots, etc. 

N. B. — Methylated spirit is much cheaper in 
England than alcohol, from which it is made by 
adding a portion of shellac to prevent its being used 
for anything other than manufacturing purposes. 



TANNIC ACID AND ITS ADVANTAGES. 

This unquestionably is superior to all the fore- 
going, and is applicable to all purposes where any of 
the former can be used, and in many instances where 
they would not avail. The chief argument against 
it is its price, although it is affirmed by some prac- 
tical men, considering all things, to be as economical 
as either of the foregoing, as it is quite soluble, 
easily fixes itself, and one pound will mordant one 
hundred pounds of goods in half an hour. 



136 



IMPROVED ANILINE MORDANT. 

This differs from all the foregoing in several 
important respects, it is about one-quarter the price 
of tannic acid, while its results are similar in every 
respect, it is a much brighter and cleaner mordant 
than sumac, and has none of the disadvantages of 
stannate of soda. Indeed, it strengthens the work 
rather than otherwise, it is half the price of methy- 
lated spirits, it works evenly, and requires no rinsing. 
Goods can be mordanted with it from five to fifteen 
minutes; it is chiefly recommended for red, violet, 
brown, green, slate, grays, etc., on cotton or mixed 
goods. 

The inventor is a practical dyer, supplies printed 
instructions, and may be communicated with on any 
points relative to his invention. Some think it a 
saving to use half the quantity of tannic or aniline 
mordant, and about three times its weight of 
glycerine ; others use about two parts of mordant 
and two parts of best starch; whilst others still 
recommend to mordant in a prepared oil bath ; and 
others consider oil and glycerine combined to be an 
improvement. 

STARCH VALUABLE TO FIX COLORS. 

All loose colors, especially anilines on mixed 
goods, should be passed hot in a clear, well-strained 
starch liquor. It fixes the color and gives substance 
to the goods; it should of course be boiled and then 
used thin ; it hurts no color. 

ALEPPO GALLS AS AN ANILINE 
MORDANT. 

There are many kinds of nutgalls, but the above 
are the best. As they are so well known it is only 
requisite to say that they are of a greenish blue tint 



137 



and should be free from worm holes. As a mordant, 
they are quite valuable and only require bruising or 
grinding, and boiling. Decant the clear liquor and 
steep the goods in them. From one to eight pounds 
are required for one hundred pounds of goods 
according to shade. 

CHINA GALLS AS AN ANILINE MORDANT. 

They are of a much later introduction in the dye- 
ing trade. Instead of being a nut in the proper 
sense of the term, they are not, as they much more 
resemble a bony-looking hollow shell, of all conceiv- 
able shapes ; no two excrescences form alike as they 
ooze from the tree in the form of gum. They are 
much the color of dry bones. They are reduced to 
a fine powder, and used in the same way as nutgalls. 



MYEOBALANS 

are also of recent introduction into the dyeing 
trade. They are more of the egg shape than other- 
wise, and are much the same color as low quality 
nutgalls — a yellow drab. No doubt they had been 
used some time for tanning purposes before they were 
much thought of for dyeing purposes. For both 
they are very useful. Like galls, the quality varies 
very much, and it requires much judgment in their 
selection, as some are very valuable, while others 
are not much stronger than sumac. They are used 
in the same way as sumac, and should at least 
be double its strength. 

SUMAC. 

An article so well known and so easily obtained 
only requires a passing word for the sake of the 
uninitiated. 



138 

The best kind has always been claimed as the 
Sicily, but at the present time a counter claim is 
put in for that of South American growth as being 
often as good as the Sicily. It is sold invariably in 
a ground state as a greenish-drab powder, and if 
good, as soon as a barrel is opened it emits a scent 
quite strongly resembling whiskey. Eight to one 
hundred pounds suffices for some colors, while 
scarlets and other spirit colors require even forty to 
one hundred pounds. I have seen as much as sixty 
pounds recommended, as the passage through the 
tin liquors cuts it considerable. 



CUTCH 

is the name used for catechu, and is well known as 
a drug for fast brown. It has likewise been used as 
a mordant for aniline colors. That it does contain 
a large amount of tannin is quite true, but it gives 
a deep body or color to the goods, it can only be 
used to advantage as a mordant for dark colors. 
But as other mordants can be used for light or 
dark colors, this finds but little favor as an aniline 
mordant. 

VALOSTIA. 

This is a nut containing a considerable amount of 
tannin, and for that reason has been used to some 
extent for leather, and to a less extent for mordant- 
ing purposes. I, however, find nothing in it to give 
it a preference over some of the other drugs as an 
aniline mordant. 

There are many other things that have been used, 
and which I might have described did I attach suffi- 
cient importance to them, but, as I have given the 
best, let that be a sufficient reason for omitting 
them, 



139 



As other mordants, with their auxiliaries, are 
treated upon in the article on dyestuffs and chemi- 
cals, I shall now leave this special branch, which 
maybe called the dry mordants, for the other branch, 
which may be called the wet mordants. 

SCARLET SPIRITS. 

Three pounds muriatic acid, three pounds pure 
double nitric acid. Add two ounces sal-ammoniac, 
and feed with one and one-half pounds granulated 
tin. 

LAC SCARLET SPIRITS. 

Three gallons muriatic acid, one gallon nitric, 
two gallons water ; kill with six pounds of tin. 



SCARLET SPIRITS, ANOTHER WAY. 

Put any quantity of nitric acid and the same of 
clear water into a stoneware pot, the water first, 
then one pound of muriatic acid to every five pounds 
of the above, and give two ounces of tin to the 
pound of spirits. Add it very slowly for two or 
three days, otherwise it may fire, which would pre- 
cipitate the nitric acid, when you would lose the 
spirit. 

SOLUTION OF TIN FOR GENERAL 
PURPOSES. 

Nine quarts muriatic acid, one quart nitric; give' 
as much feathered tin as it will take, the tin to be 
added at several times. 



MURIATE OF TIN. 
Same as lac scarlet spirits, without the nitric acid. 



140 



DOUBLE MURIATE OF TIN. 

Take muriatic acid in a strong stone pot, and, in a 
warm place, gradually feed it with as much tin as it 
will take, which should be at least three ounces to 
the pound suitable for cotton. 

CRIMSON SPIRIT FOR CARDINAL SHADE. 

Three quarts nitric acid, Rye quarts muriatic acid, 
one pound salpetre ; give as much tin as it will take. 

NITRATE OF TIN 

is aqua-fortis killed with tin, which is used in dyeing 
yellows, buffs, scarlets and crimsons. 

NITRIC ACID OR AQUA-FORTIS. 

This spirit is much used in dyeing. It is made 
from nitrate of potassa, or nitrate of soda and sul- 
phuric acid. It will dye silk yellow of itself, but is 
generally killed with tin for worsteds and wollens. 

NITRATE OF IRON 

is aqua-fortis killed with iron or copperas. It is 
used for dyeing buffs upon cotton, and as a mordant 
or preparation for other colors. 

NITRATE OF COPPER 

is aqua-fortis killed with copper (sulphate of copper). 

OXALIC TIN. 

This is a most valuable spirit for dyeing all grain 
colors, brighter colors being obtained by it than by 
either nitrate of tin or muriate of tin. It is the 
best destroyer of gum sometimes found in lac, and 



141 



which is very injurious in dyeing. In woolens it is 
very penetrating, dyeing the piece through, however 
strong, without leaving any white appearance. As 
yet it is only partially known by the dyers, but much 
approved by those who have tested its excellency. 

Note.— If not convenient to make your own spirits they can be 
bought ready prepared in most large cities. 



SUBSTITUTE FOR CREAM OF TARTAR. 

A mixture of thirty parts Glauber salts with 
twenty parts sulphate of zinc will be in many cases 
an excellent substitute for cream of tartar. 



MORDANT IN LIEU OF TARTAR IN WOOL 
DYEING. 

The following mixtures are employed : — 

No. 1. Alum, twenty -two pounds; water, eleven 

quarts. 
No. 2. Oxalic acid, seven and one-half pounds ; 

water, five and one-fourth gallons. 
No. 3. Acetic acid, four and one-fourth pounds. 
These three liquors are then mixed together pro- 
ducing a mixture which only costs 3J cents for two 
pints, or about half the price of the ordinary tartar 
bath. 

CHROME, OR BICHROMATE OF POTASH. 

This is a red orange crystal, and is of very great 
use as a mordant in dyeing blacks and other dark 
colors upon worsted and woolen goods, giving greater 
permanency than any other mordant previously em- 
ployed. Its excellent properties, in this respect, have 
only of late been appreciated, and it is now becom- 
ing generally used. It effects a great saving of time 
and expense, etc. (See article upon its proper use.) 



142 



BLACK MORDANT. 

Sometimes called black iron liquor, is made thus: 
Forty gallons of water, two pounds copperas, one- 
half pound argol, two ounces bluestone; dissolve 
each separately, then add them together, and when 
settled pour off the clear liquor for use. 

PYROLIGNITE OF IRON. 

Dissolve ten pounds of pyrolignite of lime in 
fifteen gallons of water, and proceed in the same 
way as with the acetate of iron. This method is 
intended for consumers. 

ACETATE OF IRON. 

Dissolve ten pounds of lime in fifteen gallons of 
water, then add to it gradually a solution of copperas 
(sulphate of iron) as long as any precipitate is per- 
ceivable. The clear liquor is the acetate of iron. 

SULPHATE OF IRON". 

Gradually dissolve four pounds of copperas in five 
pounds nitric acid, then add two gallons of water ; 
one quart of this solution to ten quarts of water (as 
a stock tub) will produce good results. The solution 
should be added as the tub weakens; next to no 
inconvenience is occasioned in the making of this, 
as it does not fume like nitrate of iron. 

NITRATE OF IRON. 

Two gallons aqua-fortis, five and one-half pounds 
old iron hoop with the rust beaten off; add the iron 
by degrees, after putting the above into a six-gallon 
pot (stoneware). In cold weather it will be required 
to be kept warm until dissolved. 



143 



RED LIQUOR. 

Mix sulphate of potassa or ammonia with a solu- 
tion of tersulphate of peroxide of iron. See also 
preparation of the acetate of alumina or red liquor 
and acetate of alumina or red liquor. 

A NEW MORDANT FOR DYEING ANILINE 
BLUE ON COTTON. 

Prepare the cotton with double muriate of zinc, 
and, without washing, take it to the dye bath, which 
also contains a small quantity of muriate of zinc, 
then add to the bath gradually the aniline blue dis- 
solved, and heat the bath gradually up to boiling 
point. 

LIQUID TARTAR, 

Dissolve twenty-two pounds of alum in thirty-five 
quarts of water, and seven and one-half pounds of 
oxalic acid in seventeen and one-half quarts of water; 
mix the two, and add four pounds six ounces of 
acetic acid, stirring carefully. One pound of this is 
equal to two pounds of tartar. 

LIQUID TARTAR. 

White argol, ten pounds ; sulphate of soda, ten 
pounds; single sulphuric acid at 90° F., six quarts. 
Set it at 17° F. 



PREPARATION OF THE ACETATE OF 
ALUMINA OR RED LIQUOR. 

Dissolve one hundred and twenty parts of alum 
in five hundred parts boiling water. When dis- 
solved add a solution of one hundred and five parts 
acetate of lead (sugar of lead) with five hundred 



144 



parts of water. Filter, and add water to the clear 
liquor until it marks 5° B. This clear liquor is the 
pure solution of acetate of alumina. 



ACETATE OF ALUMINA OR RED LIQUOE. 

Dissolve four parts of pure alum, and in a separate 
vessel three parts of sugar of lead, then add together 
and when settled pour off the clear liquor. 

ACETATE OF ALUMINA. 

Dissolve separately forty parts sulphate of alum, 
fifty parts sugar of lead, three and one-half parts of 
sal-soda (washing soda), then add together and 
either filter or pour off the clear liquor. 



SULPHATE OF ALUM, 

Alum prepared with sulphuric acid in its manu- 
facture. 

STAGNATE OF SODA. 

A preparation of tin and alkali, used as a cotton 
mordant. After which a run through a sulphuric 
acid bath standing at 2° B. is good for it. 



RED LIQUOR, 

otherwise called acetate of alumina (see former 
description). 

TARTAR EMETIC. 

A preparation of double tartrate of antimony 
and potash. 

For methyline blue and marine blue on cotton, 
mordant with tannin and tartar emetic. 



145 



REMARKS OX DYE WARES AKD CHEMI- 
CALS AND THEIR USE. 

Alum. — This salt is prepared from certain clays 
containing pyrites. It is used very extensively in 
dyeing, in consequence of the attraction which 
alumina has for coloring matter. It is used as a 
mordant or base for mock crimson, maroon, claret, 
purple, etc. Alum is sometimes used after chrom- 
ings, when the color is too full, being made lighter 
by adding a little. When the shade is too blue, a 
little alum will redden it. 

Annotia. — This is obtained from an American tree, 
called Bixa orellana, and is imported in the form of 
a paste, of a brick-red color. It is soluble, or 
spent by pearlash at boiling heat. It is used in 
dyeing various colors upon cotton and silks, viz. : 
buff, salmon, flat yellow, orange, and some fawn 
shades of drab. The colors may be raised by 
running in weak acid. Annotta was at one time 
extensively used, but is largely discarded for the 
aniline colors, which are far preferable. 

Archil. — This is a blue-red or violet paste, obtained 
from the Lichen orchella, grown in the south of 
France, and in the Canary Islands, where the best 
is produced. Alone, it produces a ruby color, and 
a very light violet by adding a little ammonia, or 
other alkalies. It reddens indigo blues, and, com- 
bined with logwood, produces purple, or with acids, 
red. 

Ammonia. — Liquid ammonia is generally distilled 
from gas liquor. It is sometimes made from 
ammoniacal salts and lime, but the best for dyeing 
purposes is made from urine. It is used by dyers 
for the purpose of bluing crimsons, clarets, etc., 
dyed with archil, and for cleaning purposes. 
10 



146 



Argol. — It is obtained from the juice of the grape, 
and is a crystallized incrustation generally found in 
wine casks. It becomes white when purified by 
solution and crystallization, and is then called cream 
of tartar. In dyeing, argol combined with alum is 
generally used in the preparation or boiling of 
mock crimson, maroons, clarets, and purples. It is 
excellent in giving solidity to these and other colors. 
Being a weak acid, it is the best for dyeing bright 
greens, working well with extract, sulphate of 
indigo, and is not destructive to fustic. It is 
frequently used in dyeing the spirit colors, as scarlet, 
orange, and grain crimson, but cream of tartar is 
preferable for yellows, pinks, salmons, and other 
light spirit colors. 

Prussiate of Potash. — This is made from pearlash 
and animal substances, as horns and hoofs. It is 
used for dyeing Prussian blues, varying from a sky 
to a royal blue, upon cotton and silk to a very 
limited extent. 

Quercitron Bark. — This is obtained from the yellow 
oak (Quercus infectoria), growing in North America. 
It furnishes an excellent yellow color. Alum and 
muriate of tin are the principal mordants employed 
in dyeing woolen and cotton, but oxalic tin is the 
most effective. It produces brilliant drabs upon 
cotton with nitrate of iron. It is often only 
referred to as bark. 

Safflower. — The flowers of the Carthamus tincto- 
rius, grown chiefly in Spain, contain two coloring 
matters, yellow and red. The yellow is carried ofl 
by well washing in water until the flowers assume 
a bright crimson appearance. The red coloring 
matter is extracted by steeping in pearlash and 
water, with occasional stirring. The liquor is then 
pressed from the flower, and is ready for dyeing 
pink upon cotton fabrics combined with a little 



147 

tartaric or sulphuric acid. It is little used since the 
introduction of safTVonine and eosine. 

Super Argol. — It is made from sal-enixum, or 
sulphate of soda, and sometimes from common salt 
cake. As an acid, it is used for dyeing drabs, and 
greens when turmeric is used instead of fustic ; also 
for olives and browns. It is much cheaper than 
argol or brown tartar, and in some cases is 
preferable. 

Camwood and Bancood are dark red woods con- 
taining strong coloring matter, which is of a per- 
manent nature, and is generally used for dyeing 
browns and reds upon wool and cotton goods. They 
are most soluble in sulphuric acid diluted with 
water. In the dyeing of woolens, it is sometimes 
employed as a substitute for red sanders, producing 
a more fiery appearance in browns of light and 
middle shades. 

Catechu. — Catechu is an extract from the heart- 
wood of the khair tree of the East Indies. The 
coloring matter is extracted by sulphate of copper. 
Bichromate of potash is used to darken it. It is 
used in dyeing cotton a variety of shades, varying 
from a light drab to a dark brown. 

Chemic or Sulphate of Indigo. — This is blue paste 
prepared from indigo, and contains more indigo in 
solution than any other preparation of it whatever. 
For dyeing purposes it is thus made : Put into a 
stone jar thirty-six pounds of sulphuric acid, to 
which add twelve pounds of ground indigo gradually ; 
stir well for one hour. After standing for a few 
hours it will be fit for use. This chemic is much 
cheaper than extract of indigo for dyeing some 
colors, as greens, olives and browns. Extracts of 
indigo are only modifications of this chemic, being 
partly neutralized and filtered. 



148 

French Berry, or Persian Berry. — This is the fruit 
of the Bhamnus infeciorius. It yields a bright yellow 
coloring matter, which is employed in dyeing light 
yellow shades upon cotton; also, for light greens, 
with either extract of indigo or prussiate of potash. 
It also gives the fawn shade to drabs. Combined 
with alum or crystals of tin a line golden yellow is 
obtained. 

Saunders, or Bed Sandal — This is the wood of the 
Pterocarpus santalinus, grown in India. It possesses 
deep red coloring matter, and is used chiefly in 
dyeing woolen goods. It is more permanent than 
peach wood, though not of so bright a color. 

Sapan Wood. — This wood produces a red color 
similar to that obtained from peach wood, but it is 
not much used for dyeing purposes. It is generally 
sold in the liquid state, and is used in padding and 
printing. 

Sumac. — This astringent vegetable production is 
extensively used, chiefly for cotton dyeing. It is 
used as the base of many colors. The best is that 
imported from Sicily. It has great affinity for iron, 
which, when combined with sumac in certain pro- 
portions, imparts to cotton a variety of shades from 
silver drab to black. It is sometimes spelled sumack, 
and often in the old country abbreviated to mack 
and mac. 

Fustic, or Young Fustic. — The best old fustic is 
imported from Cuba, and yields a permanent yellow 
coloring matter, when combined with alum and 
argol, in dyeing various shades of greens. It is 
also used after chroming for olives of different 
shades. Young fustic is chiefly used in dyeing 
yellows, oranges and scarlets. It gives a bright 
yellow when combined with nitrate, muriate or 
oxalic tin, the last being the most effectual. The 
young dyes brighter shades than the old. 



149 



Galls. — The gall nut is chiefly imported from 
Aleppo. It yields an astringent black coloring 
matter when combined with copperas and logwood ; 
and it is generally employed in dyeing silver drabs 
upon cotton, when combined with nitrate of iron. 
As a dyewood it gives greater solidity than sumac 
for those light shades. 

Indigo is produced from the leaves of Indigofera, a 
plant cultivated in South America, East Indies, etc. 
It is a very permanent coloring matter, employed in 
dyeing the majority of colors, varying from a drab 
to an indigo blue. The color produced by it is often 
imitated by dyeing with logwood, worsteds, and 
woolens which have previously undergone the 
chroming process. 

Kerrnes or Lac Dye is obtained from an insect 
deposited on different species of trees in the East 
Indies and other places. It contains red coloring 
matter, very like that of cochineal, and was fre- 
quently used as a substitute for it, being thought by 
some chemists to possess more permanence. It 
dyes good scarlets along with nitrate of tin, or oxalic 
tin and tartar. This dye is much cheaper than 
cochineal, and the difference of color is only slightly 
perceptible. Like cochineal, it is now little used. 

Logwood. — This is a dark-red dyewood, and is 
much employed in dyeing black upon silk, cotton, 
and woolen ; also for blues and many other colors. 
Logwood, on first being introduced into England, 
was denounced by the cultivators of the native 
wood, and even prohibited in England by Queen 
Elizabeth. All imported was to be destroyed, nor 
was it allowed to be used until the reign of Charles 
the Second ; thus proving that zeal is often blind. 

Peach wood, Lima wood and Brazil wood. — These are 
used for dyeing mock crimsons, maroons, and 
clarets, upon worsted, woolen and cotton goods. 



150 



They dye bright colors, after a preparation of alum, 
and darker shades of the same colors, after a prepara- 
tion of chrome. Hypernic is the American name 
for them. 

Madder. — This is obtained from the root of the 
Rubia tinctorum, which grows wild in the south of 
Europe, etc. It is an article of great importance in 
dyeing. Madder possesses five distinct coloring 
principles, viz., madder red, madder purple, madder 
orange, madder yellow, and madder brown. These 
colors are of most use to calico printers. It is also 
used by dyers to deaden drabs. The brighter the 
color, and stronger the scent, the better the quality. 

Cochineal is a small Mexican insect containing 
strong coloring matter, very permanent. It is used 
in dyeing pinks, rose colors, oranges, scarlets and 
crimsons. The mode of extracting the coloring 
matter is by means of nitrate of tin and muriate of 
tin; oxalic tin gives the brightest color. These 
acids for bright shades are combined with white or 
brown tartar. It is largely replaced now by coal- 
tar color. 

Cudbear (see also Archil). — Cudbear is a dry 
powder of a fine blue-red color, and will dye a ruby 
itself, either upon silk, worsted, or woolen ; a violet, 
with a little logwood ; a purple or adelaide, by pre- 
viously undergoing the chroming process. It is 
used in dyeing lavenders, drabs and various other 
shades for the red part of the color. 

Tumeric. — This is the root, of a plant cultivated in 
the East Indies, and contains much yellow coloring 
matter. It is frequently used instead of fustic, but 
is not so permanent. 

Myrabolins. — An egg-shaped nut with much the 
same properties as galls, though not so strong but 
much stronger than sumac, otherwise used the 
same. 



151 



Glauber's Salt and its Use in Dyeing. — Neutral 
sulphate of soda is mostly known as Glauber's salt 
and sold in white crystals. It contains remarkable 
chemical properties rendering it very valuable in 
woolen dyeing. By combining with acid the 
neutral sulphate is transformed into bi-sulphate, 
rendering it very valuable in the tinctorial art, not 
only in aniline colors, but if introduced into archil, 
cudbear, redwoods, turmeric, madder, logwood, 
fustic, etc., much more of these baths are exhausted 
and utilized. With soluble indigo equally good 
results are obtained, though by an opposite principle, 
namely, preventing a too rapid or uneven fixation. 
It solubility presents a singular phenomena, as at 
32° F., with one hundred parts of water only five 
per cent, is dissolved. The solubility then com- 
mences and rapidly reaches its maximum at 90° F., 
when one hundred parts of water will dissolve three 
hundred and twenty-two parts of the salt, and at 
higher temperature the solubility lessens. About 
ten pounds may be used with advantage to one 
hundred pounds of woolen goods, whether dyed 
with aniline or woods. 

Ammonia Paste. — Strong ammonia, one quart ; 
water, one quart; ground cochineal, two pounds; 
stir them all well together in a stone pot, tie up the 
mouth of it tightly, and set it to work in a slightly 
warm place for two days, when it will be fit for use. 
This will dye much bluer and deeper shades than 
cochineal. 

Green Ebony appears to be little known in the 
United States, but it is to be preferred to fustic for 
yellows and greens, as it is bright and stands the 
acid better. It is also used for best blacks on silk 
in place of fustic, as not being so harsh. 

Bi-sulphate Soda, used in place of Glauber's salt; 
it contains more acid than Glauber's salt, and will, in 



152 



some cases, cause the color to be taken up without 
additional acid. 

Many of the mordants here given are little used 
now. But this book may not be considered perfect, if 
not given, by those who still have a preference for 
the good old ways. 

COLORS.— PRIMARY OR ELEMENTARY 
COLORS. 

There are three elementary colors, termed " pri- 
mary," from which all other colors are derived, and 
there are three composite colors, termed " second- 
ary," formed by the combination of two of the 
primary colors. The three primary colors are red, 
yellow and blue ; and the three secondary colors are 
orange (the union of red and yellow), green (the 
union of yellow and blue), and violet (the union of 
blue and red). There is another color called indigo 
(the union of blue and violet), which, with the three 
primary and three secondary colors, make the seven 
colors of the solar spectrum, often designated as the 
" prismatic colors." 

If a pencil of white solar light be passed through 
a glass prism, it will be refracted into the seven 
colors as just mentioned, and conversely, the merging 
of the seven colors into one, will produce a white 
pencil of light. If upon a disk the seven colors, or 
even the three primary colors, are painted, and the 
disk made to revolve with sufficient rapidity to blend 
the colors, the effect to the eye will be a white color. 
This may be termed the " optical composition " of 
these colors. On the other hand, if the three 
primary colors in pigments be mixed in certain pro- 
portions, black will be produced, and this may be 
termed the " physical composition " of these colors. 

The optical composition and the physical com- 
position of colors are two branches of the same 



153 



study. The one belongs to the designer of the woven 
fabrics, and the other to the art of the dyer. There 
are certain expressions applied to colors that it may 
not be amiss to speak of, namely, tone, shade, tint 
and hue. The tone of a color is a term used to 
denote the modification which the color, in its 
greatest purity, experiences by the addition of black 
or white. By adding black to a pure color you 
heighten the tone and produce what is called a 
shade. By adding white to a pure color, you lower 
the tone and produce a tint. The expression hue is 
employed to designate the modifications that a color 
undergoes by receiving a small quantity of another. 

It is most surprising that from three colors, red, 
yellow and blue, all the colors and shades are pro- 
duced, yet such is the fact. By mixing either of the 
three, say, for instance, blue and yellow, a green is 
formed, or the red and yellow, an orange. These are 
called secondary colors, as also the blue and red by 
which you get a violet. Even secondary colors can 
be very much varied, as for example, give less of the 
red and more of the yellow, you get an amber, 
or give more of the red and less of the yellow, you 
have a scarlet. By the same rule take less of the 
yellow and more of the blue, and you have a peacock, 
or take most of the blue and less of the red you 
have a purple. 

Now from these secondary colors come all the 
fuller, richer and darker colors, and they in their 
turn, by being made thinner, produce what may be 
called their own reflections. Thus a peacock pro- 
duces sea-green ; violet a mauve or lavender, 
according to its blueness or redness ; brown in like 
manner produces a drab. The reflection is complete, 
as a yellow brown produces a yellow drab, while a 
red shade produces a red drab. Now a brown must 
at least have three colors in its formation, red, 
yellow and blue. It will at once be seen that its hue 
will depend upon the relative proportions of these 



154 



three colors which go into its composition. For 
instance, where yellow and red prevail it will be 
medium, and when blue prevails it will be dark just 
in proportion to the intensity of the blue. Brown 
then can be used according to its temperament, to 
mix with other colors to darken them, provided 
always that the colors chosen have the desired 
sympathy to unite. As for example, take four parts 
roseine and one part Bismarck you get a maroon, or 
in lieu of Bismarck add violet and you have a claret; 
or take your proportions according to the strength 
of the colors, say four parts green, two parts blue 
violet, two parts Bismarck, and you have a slate 
color bordering upon black. But vary them and 
you can ring what changes of brown you desire with 
them. Again, take violet and green, by them you 
can get a decided blue or any shade of peacock, as 
they unite perfectly, the green being actually made 
from violet. It was in watching the actions and 
transformations of such things in my laboratory, 
that I conceived the idea of working out into a 
system of practical development all the missing 
links in the aniline colors and shades. The general 
principles of the same I now for the first time intro- 
duce to the reader. 

THE CONTRASTING OF COLORS. 

Field's theory is, that colors complementary to 
each other present a neutral gray, as their mean 
color, and this theory is still taught in the schools 
from his text-book. Now this is more fanciful than 
correct, as will be admitted if the harmonious 
grouping of colors is carefully studied. Let me 
give some examples : — 

The mean color between pure red and pure green 
is not gray, but olive green, a sort of dull yellow. 

The mean between pure yellow and pure purple 
is reddish gray. 



155 



The mean between pure blue and pure orange is 
also reddish gray. 

Nothing is more self-evident than that the comple- 
mentary of pure red is a sea-green, such as may be 
seen in fresh verdigris which is as much green as blue. 

The true complementary of pure green is clear 
pink of the blue cast. The true complementary of 
pure blue is a pure yellow. 



HARMONY, DISCORD AND CONTRAST 
OF COLORS. 

By harmony of colors we understand colors 
placed side by side in such a manner that they do 
not injure the effect of each other, rather, on the 
contrary, complete each other, i. e., they gain in 
intensity. 

Harmony in colors does not depend on the will or 
caprice or personal taste of an individual, but it is 
based on the unchangeable laws of nature, which we 
shall immediately discuss. 

Bed and Green. — A red body reflects green rays, 
while, on the other hand, a green body reflects red 
rays. Therefore, green is the color which completes 
red, and, similarly, red completes green. Both, 
therefore, gain in intensity. 

Blue and Orange. — A blue body often reflects 
orange rays, and, inversely, an orange body will 
frequently reflect the blue rays. Orange is, there- 
fore, the complementary color of blue, and vice 
versa; therefore each intensifies the other. 

Violet and Greenish Yellow. — A violet body reflects 
greenish yellow, and, inversely, a greenish-yellow 
body reflects violet. Both colors, therefore, com- 
plete and intensify each other. 



156 

Indigo and Yellow. — Indigo reflects yellow, and 
yellow indigo rays ; hence they are complementary 
and intensify each other. 

It would carry us too far to describe all the other 
colors which are complementary. 

A. Two simple colors. 

Red and Yellow. — Eed appears darker purple, 
because the indigo rays are imparted to it from the 
yellow ; yellow appears greenish, because green rays 
are imparted to it from the red. 

Yellow and Blue. — Yellow takes away the orange 
rays from the blue, and appears reddish; blue 
absorbs the indigo rays from the yellow, and 
appears darker. 

Blue and Red. — Blue appears greenish from the 
effects of the green rays of the red; red, on the con- 
trary, from the orange rays of the blue, appears 
yellowish. 

B. A compound color and a primary color, the 
latter being contained in the former. 

Red and Orange. — Eed absorbs the blue rays from 
the orange and appears bluish violet; orange is 
influenced by the green rays of the red and appears 
yellowish, i. e., lighter. 

Red and Violet. — Eed beside violet appears yellower, 
because it receives the yellow rays from the latter ; 
violet appears darker, more dusky, because greenish 
rays are absorbed by it. 

Orange and Yellow.— Orange loses from its yellow 
and appears redder; the yellow appears more 
greenish. 



157 

Green and Yellow. — Green loses its yellow and 
appears darker, more blue ; the yellow is influenced 
by the reddish rays of the green, and it appears 
reddish, i. e., orange. 

Green and Blue. — The green appears lighter, more 
yellow, as if it were faded; the blue appears reddish 
alongside of the green, i. e.. like violet. 

Violet and Blue. — The violet loses its blue and 
assumes a reddish appearance in comparison with 
the blue, that is, greenish. 

C. Two compound colors which have one primary 
color in common. 

Orange and Green. — Both colors contain rays of 
yellow, and each loses some of its tint by contact; 
the orange appearing more red, and the green more 
blue. 

Green and Violet. — Both of these colors have blue 
in common, and hence by contact each loses its 
appearance ; the green becoming more blue, and the 
violet more red. 

Violet and Orange. — These two colors have the red 
rays in common, which are lessened by contact ; the 
violet becoming more blue, while the orange appears 
more yellowish. 

It has been stated above that red reflects green 
rays and the green reflects the red rays, that all 
colors have their completing or complementary 
shades, which may be observed by the eye. This 
statement will be confirmed in the following : — 

If one fixes his eye for some time on a red object 
and then quickly looks away or closes the eye, it 
appears just as if the same object appeared before 
him in green. Similarly, a green object when stared 
at produces a red eflect when the eye looks away. 



158 

When one looks at a blue object for some time there 
is produced in the eye the sensation as if one saw 
an orange object, and contrariwise, an orange-colored 
object appears as if it were blue. 

When these colors are seen singly, as for instance, 
in the form of flowers or some other ornamentation, 
on a light gray background, and closely watched for 
some time it will be found that after a while the 
gray ground will appear slightly tinged by the 
complementary coloring in the same way ; with 

Red, the gray ground is tinged with greenish. 

Green, the gray ground is tinged with reddish. 

Blue, the gray ground is tinged with orange. 

Orange, the gray ground is tinged with bluish. 

Violet, the gray ground is tinged with yellowish. 

With wall-papers and woven fabrics these facts 
have often been noticed and even have led to serious 
disputes. Thus, for instance, at Paris, in a factory 
of wall-papers, a case occurred in which a color 
mixer was found fault with for having used greenish 
gray instead of an ash gray as a background for a 
pattern of red flowers and garlands. His justifica- 
tion, however, was at hand, in the shape of a rem- 
nant of the gray pigment, which, when examined 
by itself, was in reality of ash-gray tint. It was 
Chevreul, the distinguished chemist and director 
of the Gobelin Manufactory at Paris, who related 
the previous case, and the difficulty was settled by 
his showing that the red flowers imparted the 
greenish tint to the gray ground. A similar cir- 
cumstance occurred to a weaver. He received some 
black and blue yarn from a dealer, by which he was 
to produce a blue and black checkered cloth. When 
the goods were given to the merchant he saw that 
the black was not so intense as the sample, and 
immediately charged the innocent weaver with hav- 
ing fraudulently substituted his beautiful black for a 
faded one. The weaver was on the point of being 
punished by law, when Chevreul, in his expert 



159 



testimony on the matter, clearly showed that the blue 
portions of the fabric reflected sufficient of the yellow 
rays to make the black appear brownish. Hence it 
is shown by experience that in such cases, as with 
the manufacture of wall-paper, the gray ground of 
the paper should contain some of the color which is 
to be used for the design which is to be placed on 
the same, in order to satisfy the complementary color. 

If, in the case of the Parisian wall paper, just 
mentioned, some red had been mixed with the gray, 
the ground would not have appeared greenish ; and 
also, if the black yarn in the case of the weaver had 
been dyed a little more blue, the orange rays from the 
blue yarn would not have shown so much on the black. 

Another interesting case of deception by the 
gradual contrast of colors is the following : A lady 
desiring to purchase some silk ribbon, and being 
undecided as to which shade to select, had samples 
of blue, violet and green shown her at the same 
time. After a close examination of the blue ribbon 
she turned to look at the violet; to her astonish- 
ment it was not violet, but brown. Perfectly 
correct, from looking at the blue ribbons, the com- 
plementary color of the blue — orange — was found in 
her eye and was imparted to the violet, giving it the 
appearance of brown. From the violet ribbon she 
proceeded to examine the green sample. Here she 
was again deceived, for, from previously looking at 
the violet, light yellow was imparted to the green, 
and it had the appearance of being faded. If, after 
her examination of the blue ribbon, the lady had 
turned to an orange object, her eye would have been 
refreshed, and in a fit condition to look at the violet. 
After finishing with the violet ribbons she should 
have looked at something light yellow, and then her 
eye would have been sensitive to the green. There- 
fore dealers should take pains to always show goods 
on papers of the complementary colors, i. e., red 
materials on green paper, etc. 



160 



All observations on gradual contrast, according to 
Sherffer's explanation, produce the following result: — 

"That in the first part of the observation of a 
color, a portion of the cornea of the eye becomes 
affected and tired by it, and that this tired portion, 
during the second part of the time (i. e., the time of 
rest) perceives the complementary." 

If purple (red-purple red) is placed beside a 
brilliant carmine, the first appears darker, less 
bright, while the latter, on the contrary, becomes 
brighter, more fiery, almost like vermilion ; if, 
however, the same carmine is placed beside ver- 
milion, the carmine appears darker, that is, less 
bright ; so that in one case the carmine appears 
fiery like vermilion, while in the other it appears 
darker purple. 

The same takes place with vermilion ; it appears 
alongside of the carmine much lighter, almost orange, 
puce-colored, but when brought in contact with 
orange puce it appears darker, carminish. Orange 
puce, which alongside of vermilion appears yellow- 
ish, when in contact with yellow shows reddish. 
Yellow in contact with orange puce appears yellow- 
ish green, and in contact with yellowish green it 
appears orange. Yellowish green alongside of 
yellow seems darker, i. e, blue, and in contact 
with blue green, lighter, that is, more yellow. Blue 
green in contact with yellowish green looks almost 
blue, and in contact with blue, yellow green. Blue 
appears violet in contact with blue green, and blue 
green when in contact with violet. 

An additional example of similar contrast is 
shown in the following : When light gray and dark 
gray are brought in contact the former appears 
lighter and the latter darker than they are in 
reality. Any one can try this by a simple experi- 
ment. Take two strips of light gray, and two 
strips of dark gray paper, and paste one light gray 
strip in contact with one dark strip, and then 



161 



compare them from a short distance. It will soon be 
found that the light gray strip, which is in contact 
with the dark gray, appears much lighter than its 
isolated companion, while the dark gray seems 
darker, so that, therefore, the gray surfaces appear 
lighter and darker than in reality. A strong con- 
trast is always noticeable between black and white. 
A black object on a white ground will appear much 
larger than it is in reality. For instance, a white 
stripe on a black surface seems broader than a black 
stripe on a white surface, although both are of the 
same width. The phenomena of simultaneous con- 
trast, according to Scherffer, may be physiologically 
explained as follows : — 

" When one of our senses receives a double sen- 
sation, one of which is active and strong, while the 
other is weak, it will be found that the latter is not 
felt. This must be particularly the case when both 
impressions are of the same kind, or when a strong 
effect from an object on one of our senses is fol- 
lowed by another of the same kind, which is milder 
and weaker." 

To test the correctness of the same, let any of the 
colors be placed upon a rotating disk, or by the 
method of reflection and transmission by means of 
a slip of polished glass, and their correctness will 
at once be recognized. Why more correct views do 
not prevail, is, I take it, because pupils have been 
content to be pupils, and not students. They have 
been too willing to accept the traditions of their 
fathers rather than give themselves the trouble to 
stop every now and then, and say, Is this so ? 

BI-SULPHATE OF SODA FOR ACID 
COLORS. 

' Passing attention has been called to this useful 
product; special attention is worthy of being given 
to it, as it contains all the good points of Glauber's 
ii 



162 



salt and sulphuric acid combined. Brilliant black 
is taken up with it at one pound to one pound of 
color, and other colors in proportion of from two to 
four per cent. Additional Glauber's salt can be 
used with it if required for anj acid color. 

It will readily be perceived what advantage this 
has over sulphuric acid in freight and safety as it 
comes in a dry state, and that so small a quantity 
will lift brilliant black is also a great advantage to 
the garment dyer, from the fact that the silk facings, 
linings, buttons and holes will be less discharged 
than formerly. 

Its price is about If cents per pound. 

HOW TO CLEAN DYED HANDS. 

Four pounds washing soda, dissolved in stone jar 
with one gallon boiling water; when cold add one 
pound chloride of lime; thoroughly mix and cover 
up. This will last a long time if kept covered up. 
The hands are washed in the clean liquor, and when 
the stain has slipped off the liquor can be returned, 
or the hands can be dipped in the jar, one at a time, 
then wash in warm water, then in soap. 



GLOSSABY. 

It may be useful to the uninstructed to have ex- 
plained to them some of the names and terms used 
in the trade. 

Acetate of Lead. — Sugar of Lead. 

Alumina. — A pure form of Alum. 

Animalize. — The action -of Mordants on cotton 
fibre causing them to take up dye similar to animal 
fibres. 

Aqua Ammonia. — Liquid Ammonia. 



163 

Aqua-fortis. — A weaker form of Nitric Acid. 

Bark. — Mostly Quercitron bark. 

Catechu. — The proper name for Cutch. 

Chemic. — A term used by bleachers for the bleach 
liquor containing the Indigo for bluing. 

Chemic Blue. — Sometimes called by dyers Indigo 
Paste, or Indigo Extract, all three of which refer 
to the prepared paste of indigo, as does also Sul- 
phate of Indigo. 

Chlorine. — Referring to the bleach liquor made 
from Chloride of Lime. 

Chromate of Lead. — One hundred and ninety 
parts Chromate of Potash and one hundred parts 
Sugar of Lead. 

Chrome. — An abbreviation for Bichromate of 
Potash. 

Chroming. — The act of preparing goods (Mor- 
danting) for dyeing. 

Dishful. — About ten pounds. 

Dim DM. — Similar to Catechu. 

Double Muriatic Acid. — A stronger form of Mu- 
riatic Acid. 



Double Nitric Acid. — A stronger form of Nitric 
Acid. 

Double Tin. — A stronger form of Tin Liquor. 

Fah. — Refers to Fahrenheit's instrument to test 
heat. 

Iron, To. — Means to pass through a preparation 
of Nitric Acid in which iron is dissolved. 

Gambier. — Similar to Catechu. 



164 



Granulated Tin or Feathered Tin. — Block Tin 
melted, and at a height allowed to fall slowly into a 
a vessel of water, when it becomes small and thin 
for tin solutions. 

Hy pernio. — American name for the family of 
Brazil wood, Lima wood and Peach wood. 

Kettle. — Means any vessel used for dyeing, of 
whatever material made. 

Mac or Mack. — For Sumac. 

Magenta, Fuchsine, and Roseine. — Simply a con- 
fusion of names, as they are one and the same in 
manufacture. 

Mordant. — When not otherwise defined means to 
pass through or lie in a preparation of Tannin, for 
light colors one pound of Tannic Acid, mostly called 
Tannin, or, as an equivalent, two pounds of Bird's 
Aniline Mordant, or ten pounds Sumac. In either 
case to be scalded out before the goods are entered. 
For dark colors half extra of the Tannin or Aniline 
Mordant, and often twenty pounds of Sumac are 
required to one hundred pounds of goods. 

Muriatic Acid. — The correct name for Hydro- 
chloric Acid and Spirits of Salts. 

Oil Soap. — Preferably made from palm-oil (very 
good is made from Cotton and Linseed Oils) ; it has 
this advantage, that when dissolved it remains so, 
and is fit for constant use, and especially is it useful 
for cleaning goods that will not stand warm soap. 

Oxidizing. — The air acting on dyed goods and 
turning them dark. 

Pailful— Three to four gallons. 

Panama Bath. — A soap bath with Acetic or Sul- 
phuric Acid in it for dyeing silks. 



165 



Prussiate. — Prussiate of Potash either in the red 
or yellow form. 

Sal Soda. — The term used in America for washing 
Soda. 

Soda Ash. — About twice as strong as Sal Soda. 

Soda. — The term used in England for washing 
crystals. 

Sour, To. — To pass the goods through an acid 
bath, mostly sulphuric, to taste just tart, and used 
warm. 

Speck Dyeing. — Filling up cotton warp after woolen 
dyeing Touching up specks of cotton showing 
on dyed goods. 

Spend. — The act of drawing out the color of dye 
woods. 

Spirit, To. — Sometimes means to pass through a 
warm bath of Sulphuric Acid, or Spirits of Salts, 
to clear and heighten the work, or to remove stains 
from goods that have been cleaned ready for dyeing 
mostly by garment dyers. To spirit, however, often 
means to pass through one of the tin liquors after 
cotton goods have been in a tannin liquor ; both of 
which prepares it for taking up the brighter shades 
of dyes. 

Standard Colors. — Those generally in use and 
dyed by accepted rule. 

Strip. — The act of discharging old dye in goods. 

Sulphuric Acid. — The proper name for Oil of 
Vitriol. 

Sulphate of Copper. — The correct name for Blue 
Vitriol or Bluestone. 

Sulphate of Iron. — The correct name for Copperas. 



166 

Sulphuring. — The action of Brimstone on the fibre 
of goods in a bleaching process. 

Tot. — Equal to about one-third of a pint. 

Tartar. — Sometimes refer to Cream of Tartar and 
sometimes to Red Argols. They are both the same 
thing, the white being purified, but for dyeing pur- 
poses the best red will generally answer as well as 
the white. 

Tin, To.— To pass the goods through one of the 
preparations of tin liquor, as Muriate of Tin or 
Oxymuriate of Tin. 

Top off, To. — The act of giving a last dye bath to 
improve some previous one. 

Tw. — Refers to Twaddle's instrument to test the 
strength of acid and other solutions. 



ISTAPHTHYLAMINE BLACK D. 

Patent Applied For. 

This new product, belonging to the class of black 
coloring matters patented by Messrs. Leopold 
Cassella & Co., of Frankfort-on-the-Main, Germany, 
possesses the following advantages : — 

It is fast to light and milling ; it dyes evenly in 
a neutral bath, and, like naphtol black, it does not 
rub oiF. 

Up to the present moment the best methods 
known for dyeing it are as follows : — 

Wool is dyed in a neutral or slightly acidulated 
bath. 

For dyeing piece goods and yarn in light shades, 
it requires an addition of thirty to thirty-five per 
cent, of common salt to every hundred pounds of 
wool, or sixty to seventy per cent, of crystalized 
Glauber salts. 



167 

For dark goods it is advisable to use five to seven 
and one-half pounds of acetic acid per one hundred 
pounds of wool along with the Glauber salts above 
mentioned. 

Loose Wool is dyed by adding to the dye bath Rve 
pounds of alum aud fifteen pounds of calcined 
Glauber salts per one hundred pounds of stock. 

In all cases the wool is dyed in the same bath with 
the mordant, and at the boil, three to four pounds 
naphthylamine black D. producing a full, deep 
shade, while the addition of some green, yellow or 
orange produces a dead or jet black. 

Mixed Goods (cotton or wool) can be dyed with one 
part naphthylamine black D. and two parts diamine 
black R. 0., with the addition of Glauber salts. 
The shade obtained is not exactly a black, but can 
be made one by topping in a cold bath with fast 
green 0. 

Silk is dyed in a boiling bath with the addition of 
some acetic acid or alum. Seven pounds of naph- 
thylamine black D. produces a fine deep color which 
resists the action of water and even strong soaping. 

Mixed Silk and Wool is dyed in a boiling bath with 
the addition of about six pounds of acetic acid per 
one hundred pounds of stock. If alum is used, a 
deep, dead black is obtained. 

N". B. — If tin or copper dye baths or copper piping 
be used, naphthylamine black must be dyed slightly 
acid (with acetic or muriatic acid). "When dyed in 
neutral baths in the presence of these metals, the 
shade is somewhat reddened. When dyed in 
wooden vessels, neutral baths may be employed 
without harm, so long as the copper pipes or coils 
do not come in contact with the goods or yarns. 

Naphthylamine black D. of itself is alkaline and 
should be neutralized in dissolving it with a small 
addition of muriatic acid or acetic acid. 



168 



Sulphate of ammonia may be used where the 
dyeing is done in copper or tin vessels, and then the 
addition of acetic or muriatic acid is unnecessary. 

Without guarantee. 



ALIZARINE BLACK, FOR WOOL ONLY. 

The formula given for this is as follows : — 

Make up dye bath with four per cent, alizarine 
4 B. ; acetic acid, ten per cent. Enter at the boil, 
and continue to boil until the color is taken up. 

Samples of this color were received and personal 
tests were made with it on white yarn. The color 
is a strong one. The dyed sample came up rather 
reddish. The second in the same bath, with the 
same proportions, the same. Tne third one, in fresh 
bath, did so also; this, possibly, may be corrected by 
adding acid green or yellow to it. 

DIAMINE FAST COTTON BLACK. 

This is an entirely new production, and is mostly 
applicable to yarn and piece dyeing. It is done in 
three operations, and a wash-off in soap. Process 
of dyeing is as follows : — 

For one hundred pounds of cotton, dye in bath of 
ten pounds diamine black E., fifteen pounds com- 
mon salt, five pounds carbonate soda crystals, boiling 
for one hour. 

This bath can be used for all following dyeings, by 
adding one-third to one-half of amount of dye for 
every one hundred pounds cotton, and now and 
again a fresh quantity of salt and soda. Wash off" 
well with cold water and enter the preparing bath 
made up with ten pounds nitrate soda, dissolved in 
cold water, and add gradually while stirring twenty 
pounds sulphuric acid; work fifteen minutes. Keep 



169 

this cool as possible, and do not rake or stir violently, 
being careful in working to work the goods without 
churning the bath. Wash off in cold water, and 
pass at once to the developing bath made up with 
Developer No. 3, ten to fifteen pounds, dissolved in 
boiling water, and add to the tub ; work cold for 
fifteen or twenty minutes, and then wash well. The 
preparing and developing baths can be used over 
and over again by being freshened up with propor- 
tionately less quantities. IsTo caustic soda required 
in the use of Developer No. 3. All were soaped at 
190° F., with two pounds of soap to one hundred 
pounds of yarn. 

The above formula was sent me, with dyed 
samples, by Messrs. Wni. J. Matheson & Co., agents 
for Leopold Cassella & Co., of Frankfort, Germany. 
Samples of color were to have been sent in time for 
my personal tests, but, as they did not reach me up 
to the last day of going to press, I had no oppor- 
tunity of doing so. Note from 2 to 3 per cent 
sulphuric acid is as much as cotton will bear without 
injury. 



ONE-DIP ANILINE FAST BLACK FOR 
COTTON. 

Benzo black blue has been described. The one I 
now offer is stronger and deeper than that, so much 
so that most mixed goods after the wool is dyed can 
be filled up as follows in one bath : To each dress use 
one and one-half ounces, and a gent's suit two ounces 
cotton black, and three times as much of common 
salt, dissolve the color in boiling water, then make 
the bath stand at about 100° F., and let them lie 
in this at that heat until the color is on ; the same 
bath, no doubt, can be added to and used from time 
to time. So if the bath is made stronger it will be 
no loss, as it can be saved. 



170 

The warranted fast cotton hose can be dyed with 
this at less cost than with the benzo black blue; will 
therefore take less. Otherwise the operation is the 
same. 

Fulling black on piece goods can also be dyed in 
same way with this as described for benzo blue 
black. With one bath of sumac and iron instead of 
two, with three per cent, color and ten per cent. salt. 



FAST ANILINE BLACK FOE MIXED GOODS 
OF COTTON AND WOOL. 

TO DYE IN ONE BATH. 

This color has just come to hand, too late, how- 
ever, to give report of test here. 

Will make it shortly and give results to those who 
wish it. 



THE END. 



APPENDIX. 



RULES FOR CONVERTING AVOIRDUPOIS 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 
INTO METRIC. 

To convert avoirdupois pounds into grammes, 
multiply by 500, and deduct 10 per cent., and then 
add 55J grains for exactness to every 1,000 pounds 
avoirdupois. 

To convert avordupois pounds into half kilos, or 
pints into half litres, deduct about 10 per cent. 

To convert avoirdupois ounces into grammes, 
multiply by 30 and divide by 5, then add 22 grains 
to the ounce. 

To convert yards into metres, deduct 10 per cent. 

The following may be used for mixing : — 

One Troy grain or minim is equal to 0.06 gramme 
or nuidgramme, or 6 centrigrammes. 

One drachm or nuiddrachm is equal to 4 grammes 
or fluidgrammes. 

One ounce is equal to 30 grammes. 

One gramme is equal to 15 grains or minims. 

An average drop is equal to 0.05 fluidgramme. 

An average teaspoon holds 5 fluidgrammes. 

A dessert spoon 10 fluidgrammes. 

A tablespoon 20 fluidgrammes. 

A wine glass 75 fluidgrammes. 

HYDROMETER TABLES. 

Baume's scale for liquids heavier than water is 
graduated from 0° to 72°. Its relation to direct 
specific gravity is shown in the following table : — 



172 



0° = 


1.000 


27° = 


1.216 


51° = 


1.505 


3 


1.020 


30 


1.246 


54 


1.551 


6 


1.041 


33 


1.277 


57 


1.600 


9 


1.063 


36 


1.310 


60 


1.652 


12 


1.086 


39 


1.345 


63 


1.708 


15 


1.109 


42 


1.382 


66 


1.767 


18 


1.134 


45 


1.421 


69 


1.831 


21 


1.160 


48 


1.462 


72 


1.900 


24 


1.188 











The scale for liquids lighter than water extends 
from 10° to 40°, the lowest number representing the 
specific gravity of water, and the higher ones those 
of lighter liquids. 



10° 

n 

12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 



1.000 
0.993 
0.986 
0.980 
0.973 
0.967 
0.960 
0.954 
0.948 
0.942 
0.936 



21° = 


0.930 


22 


0.924 


23 


0.918 


24 


0.913 


25 


0.907 


26 


0.901 


27 


0.896 


28 


0.890 


29 


0.885 


30 


0.880 



31° = 


0.874 


32 


0.869 


33 


0.864 


34 


0.859 


35 


0.854 


36 


0.849 


37 


0.844 


38 


0.839 


39 


0.834 


40 


0.830 



Beck's scale, for liquids heavier than water, runs 



from 1°, which is slightly above the specific gravity 
It is a most inconvenient scale. 



of water, to 70°. 



i° 

2 
3 
4 
5 
6 
7 



9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 



1.0059 
1.0119 
1.0180 
1.0241 
1.0303 
1.0366 
1.0429 
1.0494 
1.0559 
1.0625 
1.0692 
1.0759 
1.0828 
1.0897 
1.0968 
1.1039 
1.1111 
1.1184 
1.1258 
1.1333 
1.1409 
1.1486 
1.1565 
1.1644 



25° 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

37 



40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 



1.1724 

1.1806 
1.1888 
1.1972 
1.2057 
1.2143 
1.2230 
1.2319 
1.2409 
1.2500 
1.2593 
1.2687 
1.2782 
1.2879 
1.2977 
1.3077 
1.3178 
1.3281 
1.3386 
1.3492 
1.3600 
1.3710 
1.382.1 



48° = 

49 

50 

51 

52 

53 

54 

55 

56 

57 

58 

59 

60 

61 

62 

63 

64 

65 

66 

67 

68 

69 

70 



1.3934 
1.4050 
1.4167 
1.4286 
1.4407 
1.4530 
1.4655 
1.4783 
1.4912 
1.5044 
1.5179 
1.5315 
1.5454 
1.5596 
1.5741 
1.5888 
1.6038 
1.6190 
1.6346 
1.6505 
1.6667 
1.6832 
1.7000 



173 



Cartier's scale for liquids lighter than water runs 
from 10° — water, to 44°. Its relation to direct 
specific gravity is shown in the following table :— 



10° = 


1.000 


22° = 


0.916 


SI© = 


0.845 


11 


992 


23 


0.909 


35 


0.840 


12 


0.985 


21 


0.903 


36 


0.835 


13 


0.977 


25 


0.897 


37 


0.830 


14 


0.970 


26 


0.891 


38 


0.825 


15 


0.963 


27 


0.885 


39 


0.819 


16 


0.956 


28 


0.879 


10 


0.814 


17 


0.919 


29 


0.872 


11 


0.809 


18 


0.942 


30 


0.867 


42 


0.804 


19 


0.935 


31 


0.862 


43 


0.799 


20 


0.929 


32 


0.856 


44 


0.794 


21 


0.922 


33 


0.851 







The direct scale of specific gravity assumes water 
to be 1, or 1.000, all heavier liquids requiring larger 
numbers, and all lighter ones numbers smaller than 
unity. This scale shows at once the weight per gal- 
lon of any liquid, the first two figures to the left 



hand 
two or 



representing 
more following: to 



pounds (avoirdupois), and the 



the right 



being decimal 



Thus, if a sample of double 
a gallon of it 



weighs 



14* 



fractions of a pound, 
muriate marks 1.450, 
pounds. 

Twaddle's scale makes water = 0, and the strong- 
est oil of vitriol = 170°. Unlike direct specific 
gravity, it extends only to liquids heavier than 
water. For greater accuracy, the scale is arranged 
on a set of six instruments, numbered progressively 
upwards. Thus, a E"o. 1 
to 32°. 



Twaddle ranges from 0° 



The relation between Twaddle's scale and direct 
specific gravity is very simple. To convert a degree 
of Twaddle into the corresponding degree of direct 
specific gravity, multiply by 5, and add 1.000 to the 
product. Thus, if a bleaching liquor marks 7° 
Twaddle, its specific gravity is — 



174 

7 
5 

35 

1.000 

1.035 

A sample of single aqua-fortis marks 33° Twad- 
dle. Its specific gravity is then — 

33 
5 



.165 
1.000 

1.165 



If the specific gravity has been taken the degree 
of Twaddle may be found by reversing this rule, 
subtracting 1.000 and dividing the remainder by 5. 
Thus, a sample of double aqua-fortis marks specific 
gravity 1.350. Its degree on Twaddle's scale will 
be — 

1.350 

1.000 



5).350 



70° Twaddle. 

In some hydrometers, graduated for direct specific 
gravity, the first figure is omitted. On such, water 
marks 0°, and the above-mentioned sample of double 
aqua-fortis 350°. A peculiar hydrometer — called the 
ammonia glass or ammonia meter — is used in some 
districts for the sale of ammonia. It ranges from 
10° (water) to 45°, representing the lightest liquors. 
It very nearly agrees with Baume's light glass. 
Hydrometers give inacurate results if applied to — 



175 

a. Hot liquids. 

b. Glutinous liquids, solutions of gum, starch, 
size, etc. 

c. Effervescing liquids. 

d. Liquids holding solid matters in suspension. 

Hot liquids should be allowed to cool, or, if it be 
necessary to observe their specific gravity at elevated 
temperatures, a comparative trial should be made 
on the liquid while hot, and on a portion when cold, 
so that the indication may be corrected. If it be 
needful to take the specific gravity of any liquid 
coming under the heads b, c, and d, a gallon should 
be accurately weighed. 

In chemical, dye, and print works, where hydro- 
meters are placed in the hands of foremen for fre- 
quent use, they should be regularly brought at some 
stated time to the laboratory for verification. 



COMPARISON OF THE DEGREES OF BAUM^'S 

AND TWADDLE'S HYDROMETERS, 

WITH SPECIFIC GRAVITIES. 

The specific gravity of liquids is generally noted 
on the Continent for liquids heavier than water by 
Baume's hydrometer, while for liquids lighter than 
water that of Cartier is mostly employed. 

These various scales may be, by certain formulas, 
converted into each other, but, as practical men 
generally do not like to trouble themselves with 
long calculations, but want for their experiments 
everything as far as possible at their hand, it was 
thought advisable to give, in the following, these 
comparative scales in full for liquids heavier than 
water : — 



176 



Baume\ 


Specific gravity. 


Twaddle. 


Baume. 


Specific gravity. 


Twaddle. 





1.000 





39 


1.345 


69 


1 


1.007 


1.4 


40 


1.357 


71.4 


2 


1.013 


2.6 


41 


1.369 


73.8 


3 


1.020 


4 


42 


1.381 


76.2 


4 


1.027 


5.4 


43 


1.395 


79 


5 


1.034 


6.8 


44 


1.407 


81.4 


6 


1.041 


8.2 


45 


1.420 


84 


7 


1.048 


9.6 


46 


1.434 


86.8 


8 


1.056 


11.2 


47 


1.448 


89.6 


9 


1.063 


12.6 


48 


1.462 


92.4 


10 


1.070 


14 


49 


1.476 


95.2 


11 


1.078 


15.6 


50 


1.490 


98 


12 


1.085 


17 


51 


1.505 


99 


13 


1.094 


18.8 


52 


1.520 


104 


14 


1.101 


20.2 


53 


1.535 


107 


15 


1.109 


21.8 


54 


1.551 


110.2 


16 


1.118 


23.6 


55 


1.567 


113.4 


17 


1.126 


25.2 


56 


1.583 


116.6 


18 


1.134 


26.8 


57 


1.600 


120 


19 


1.143 


28.6 


58 


1.617 


123.4 


.20 


1.152 


30.4 


59 


1.634 


126.8 


21 


1.160 


32 


60 


1.652 


130.4 


22 


1.169 


33.8 


61 


1.670 


134 


23 


1.178 


35.6 


62 


1.689 


137.8 


24 


1.188 


37.6 


63 


1.708 


141.6 


25 


1.197 


39.4 


64 


1.727 


145.4 


26 


1.206 


41.2 


65 


1.747 


149.4 


27 


1.216 


43.2 


66 


1.767 


153.4 


28 


1.225 


45 


67 


1.788 


157.6 


29 


1.235 


47 


68 


1.809 


161.8 


30 


1.245 


49 


69 


1.831 


166.2 


31 


1.256 


51.2 


70 


1.854 


170.8 


32 


1.267 


53.4 


71 


1.877 


175.4 


33 


1.277 


55.4 


72 


1.900 


180 


34 


1.288 


57.6 


73 


1.944 


188.8 


35 


1.299 


59.8 


74 


1.949 


189.8 


36 


1.310 


62 


75 


1.974 


194.8 


37 


1.321 


64.2 


76 


2.000 


200 


38 


1.333 


66.6 









From the specific gravity of a liquid given in the 
above table its weight per gallon may be easily cal- 
culated, as the first two figures from the left hand 
stand for pounds, while the next preceding ones give 
the decimal fractions of a pound; for instance, if 
the specific gravity of hydrochloric acid is 1.160, a 
gallon of it will weigh 11.6, or rather more than 11 J 
pounds. 



177 

Now a few words about the use of the hydro- 
meter may not be out of place. As important as 
the gauge glasses are, still among practical men in 
this country, they are frequently misused. First of 
all the hydrometer of whatever scale it may be ought 
never to be used for hot liquids ; it is useless for 
liquids which contain solid matter in suspensioD, 
and also for liquids of a sticky nature. Further, 
the hydrometer never gives a proof of the super- 
iority of one liquid over the other (as long as equal 
purity has not been previously shown), but merely its 
specific gravity; hence, if we meet one liquid marking 
heavier on Twaddle than another, this would be no 
proof that the former is more valuable, as for 
instance, hydrochloric acid, standing 34° T.,may be 
under some circumstances inferior to one standing 
26°. Lastly, before using, the hydrometer ought 
to be quite dry. 



THERMOMETER SCALES. 

To convert Centigrade (Celsius) into Fahrenheit. — If 
the temperature be above the freezing point of 
water (32° F. = 0° C), multiply by 9, divide by 5, 
and add 32 to the quotient. If it be below freezing 
point (32° F. = 0° C), but above 0° F. (=== — 18° 
C), multiply by 9, divide by 5, and subtract the 
result from 32°. If below — 18° C. (— 0° F.), mul- 
tiply by 9, divide by 5, and subtract 32° from the 
result. 

Reaumur's scale, in which the boiling point of 
water is made 80°, and the freezing point, as in the 
Centigrade, 0°, is still used in many German dye 
and print works. 

To convert Reaumur into Centigrade, whether above 
or below freezing point, multiply by 5 and divide by 4. 

To convert Centigrade into Reaumur, multiply by 4 
and divide by 5. 

12 



178 



To convert Reaumur into Fahrenheit, or vice versa, 
the rules above given for the conversion of Centi- 
grade into Fahrenheit, etc., will apply, 4 being used 
respectively as multiplier or divisor instead of 5. 

COMPARISON OF THE DEGEEES OF FAHR- 
ENHEIT, CENTIGRADE, AND REAUMUR 
THERMOMETERS. 

The difference in the scales of the termometers in 
general use is frequently a mystery to practical men. 
Why the degrees as shown on Fahrenheit's, Centi- 
grade, or Reaumur's thermometers should be differ- 
ent they cannot well conceive when they come to 
think about them. It may, therefore, be interesting 
to explain this matter. 

In all the thermometers, whether made after the 
system of Fahrenheit, Celsius, or Reaumur, the 
degrees commence at a point called zero, which 
always indicates a great degree of cold, and rise to 
warmer points with varying degrees of rapidity. 
Celsius and Reaumur commenced at the freezing 
point of water, and called this zero, and made re- 
spectively 100° and 80° between this point and the 
boiling point of water. From the fact that Celsius 
divided the distance between the freezing and the 
boiling points of water into 100°, his thermometer 
has been called the Centigrade, and has come into 
general use in France, where the decimal system 
has found so much favor. 

Into all the facts respecting the gradation of ther- 
mometers it is unnecessary to enter ; suffice to say 
that investigations, which have been most carefully 
made, show the natural zero of Fahrenheit's scale 
to be— 461° 2', Centigrade— 274°, and Reaumur's, 
219° 2'. These remarks show the difference between 
the scales of each thermometer, and the systems on 
which they are constructed. 



179 



For all ordinary purposes, experience has shown 
that the scale of Fahrenheit is to be preferred to 
that of the Centigrade, from the fact that each degree 
indicates a much smaller range of temperature. 



1 

-9 


u <o 

CO 

.2 &> 


a 
I 


si 

a 

si 


u 6 

CO 

.2 t* 


u 

a 
§ 

«<D 


+212 
211 


fioo 

99.44 


+80 
79.56 


+170 
169 


+76.67 
76.11 


+61.33 
60.89 


210 


98.89 


79.11 


168 


75.55 


60.44 


209 


98.33 


78.67 


167 


75 


60 


208 


97.78 


78.22 


166 


74.44 


59.56 


207 


97.22 


77.78 


165 


73.89 


59.11 


206 


96.67 


77.33 


164 


73.33 


58.67 


205 


96.11 


76.89 


163 


72.78 


58.22 


204 


95.55 


76.44 


162 


72.22 


57.78 


203 


95 


76 


161 


71.67 


57.33 


202 


94.44 


75.56 


160 


71.11 


56.89 


201 


93.89 


75.11 


159 


70.55 


56.44 


200 


93.33 


74.67 


158 


70 


56 


199 


92.78 


74.22 


157 


69.44 


55.56 


198 


92.22 


73.78 


156 


68.89 


55.11 


197 


91.67 


73.33 


155 


68.33 


54.67 


196 


91.11 


72.89 


154 


67.78 


54.22 


195 


90.55 


72.44 


153 


67.22 


53.78 


194 


90 


72 


152 


66.67 


53.33 


193 


89.44 


71.56 


151 


66.11 


52.89 


192 


88.89 


71.11 


150 


65.55 


52.44 


191 


88.33 


70.67 


149 


65 


52 


190 


87.78 


70.22 


148 


64.44 


51.56 


189 


87.22 


69.78 


147 


63.89 


51.11 


188 


86.67 


69.33 


146 


63.33 


50.67 


187 


86.11 


68.89 


145 


62.78 


50.22 


186 


85.55 


68.44 


144 


62.22 


49.78 


185 


85 


68 


143 


61.67 


49.33 


184 


84.44 


67.56 


142 


61.11 


48.89 


183 


83.89 


67.11 


141 


60.55 


48.44 


182 


83.33 


66.67 


140 


60 


48 


181 


82.78 


66.22 


139 


59.44 


47.56 


180 


82.22 


65.78 


138 


58.89 


47.11 


179 


81.67 


65.33 


137 


58.33 


46.67 


178 


81.11 


64.89 


136 


57.78 


46.22 


177 


80.55 


64.44 


135 


57.22 


45.78 


176 


80 


64 


134 


56.67 


45.33 


175 


79.44 


63.56 


133 


56.11 


44.89 


174 


78.89 


63.11 


132 


55.55 


44.44 


173 


78.83 


62.67 


131 


55 


44 


172 


77.78 


62.22 


130 


54.44 


43.56 


171 


77.22 


61.78 i 


129 


53,89 


43.11 



180 



'55 
A 
a 
2 


£ &0 


3 


d 

a 


CO 
.5 &<> 


c 
2 
£ 

3 


F-4 

■3 




c3 




a) d 


33 


ft 


og 


« 


03 
ft 


Og 


A 


+128 


+53.33 


+42.67 


+79 


+26.11 


+20.89 


127 


52.78 


42.22 


78 


25.55 


20.44 


126 


52.22 


41.78 


77 


25 


20 


125 


51.67 


41.33 


76 


24.44 


19.56 


124 


51.11 


40.89 


75 


23.89 


19.11 


123 


50.55 


40.44 


74 


23.33 


18.67 


122 


50 


40 


73 


22.78 


18.22 


121 


49.44 


39.56 


72 


22.22 


17.78 


120 


48.89 


39.11 


71 


21.67 


17.33 


119 


48.33 


38.67 


70 


21.11 


16.89 


118 


47.78 


38.22 


69 


20.55 


16.44 


117 


47.22 


37.78 


63 


20 


16 


116 


46.67 


37.33 


67 


19.44 


15.56 


115 


46.11 


36.89 


66 


18.89 


15.11 


114 


45.55 


36.44 


65 


18.33 


14.67 


113 


45 


36 


64 


17.78 


14.22 


112 


44.44 


35.56 


63 


17.22 


13.78 


111 


43.89 


35.11 


62 


16.67 


13.33 


110 


43.33 


34.67 


61 


16.11 


12.89 


109 


42.78 


34.22 


60 


15.55 


12.44 


108 


42.22 


33.78 


59 


15 


12 


107 


41.67 


33.38 


58 


14.44 


11.56 


106 


41.11 


32.89 


57 


13.89 


11.11 


105 


40.55 


32.44 


56 


13.33 


10.67 


104 


40 


32 


55 


12.78 


10.22 


103 


39.44 


31.56 


54 


12.22 


9.78 


102 


38.89 


31.11 


53 


11.67 


9.33 


101 


38.33 


30.67 


52 


11.11 


8.89 


100 


37.78 


30.22 


51 


10.55 


8.44 


99 


37.22 


29.78 


50 


10 


8 


98 


36.67 


29.33 


49 


9.44 


. 7.56 


97 


36.11 


28.89 


48 


8.89 


7.11 


96 


35.55 


28.^:4 


47 


8.33 


6.67 


95 


35 


28 


46 


7.78 


6.22 


94 


34.44 


27.56 


45 


7.22 


5.78 


93 


33.89 


27.11 


44 


6.67 


5.33 


92 


33.33 


26.67 


43 


6.11 


4.89 


91 


32.78 


26.22 


42 


5.55 


4.44 


90 


32.22 


25.78 


41 


5 


4 


89 


31.67 


25.33 


40 


4.44 


3.56 


88 


31.11 


24.89 


39 


3.89 


3.11 


87 


30.55 


24.44 


38 


3.33 


2.67 


86 


30 


24 


37 


2.78 


2.22 


85 


29.44 


23.56 


36 


2.22 


1.78 


84 


28.89 


23.11 


35 


1.67 


1.33 


83 


28.33 


22.67 


34 


1.11 


0.89 


82 


27.78 


22.22 


33 


0.55 


0.44 


81 


27.22 


21.78 


32 








80 


26.67 


21,33 


31 


—0.55 


—0.44 



181 



a 

© 
(1 


Celsius or 
Centigrade. 


Reaumur. 


o 

a 
© 


.5 if 


a 

P 
>© 


+30 


—1.11 


—0.89 


—6 


—21.11 


—16.89 


29 


1.67 


1.33 


7 


21.67 


17.33 


28 


2.22 


1.78 


8 


22.22 


17.78 


27 


2.78 


2.22 


9 


22.78 


18.22 


26 


3.33 


2.67 


10 


23.33 


18.67 


25 


3.89 


3.11 


11 


23.89 


19 11 


24 


4.44 


3.56 


12 


24.44 


19.56 


23 


5 


4 


13 


25 


20 


22 


5.55 


4.44 


14 


25.55 


20.44 


21 


6.11 


4.89 


15 


26.11 


20.89 


20 


6.67 


5.33 


16 


26.67 


21.33 


19 


7.22 


5.78 


17 


27.22 


21.78 


18 


7.78 


6.22 


18 


27.78 


22.22 


17 


8.33 


6.67 


19 


28.33 


22.67 


16 


8.89 


7.11 


20 


28.89 


23.11 


15 


9.44 


7.56 


21 


29.44 


23.56 


14 


10 


8 


22 


30 


24 


13 


10.55 


8.44 


23 


30.55 


24.44 


12 


11.11 


8.89 


24 


21.12 


24.89 


11 


11.67 


9.33 


25 


31.67 


25.33 


10 


12.22 


9.78 


26 


32.22 


25.78 


9 


12.78 


10.22 


27 


32.78 


26.22 


8 


13.33 


10.67 


28 


33.33 


26.67 


7 


13.89 


11.11 


29 


33.89 


27.11 


6 


14.44 


11.56 


30 


34.44 


27.56 


5 


15 


12 


31 


35 


28 


4 


15.55 


12.44 


32 


35.55 


28.44 


3 


16.11 


12.89 


33 


36.11 


28.89 


2 


16.67 


13.33 


34 


36.67 


29.33 


1 


17.22 


13.78 


35 


37.22 


28.78 


—0 


17.78 


14.22 


36 


37.78 


30.22 


1 


18.33 


14.67 


37 


38.33 


30.67 


2 


18.89 


15.11 


38 


38.89 


31.11 


3 


19.44 


15.56 


39 


39.44 


31.56 


4 


20 


16 


40 


40 


32 


5 


20.55 


16.44 









FRENCH MEASURES OF CAPACITY. 

Eng. cub. inches. 

Millilitre .061028 

Centilitre .61028 Imp. Measure. 

Decilitre 6.1028 gal. pint. 

LlTEE* 61.028 = 1.76 

Decalitre 610.28 = 2 1.60 

Hectolitre 6102.8 ••= 22 0.08 

Kilolitre 61028. — 220 0.80 

Myriolitre 610280. = 2201 

* A cubic decimetre. 



182 



FRENCH MEASURES OF WEIGHTS. 

Eng. grains. 

Milligramme .1540 

Centigramme .1543 

Decigramme 1.5434 Troy Weight. 

Gramme* 15.4340 lb- oz. dwt. gr. 

Decagramme 154.3402 =0 6 10.46 

Hectogramme 1543.4023 =034 8.4 

Kilogramme 15434.0234 = 2-8 3 12.02 

Myriogramme 154340.2344 = 26 9 15 0.24 

A kilogramme is 2% pounds avoirdupois. 

* A gramme is the weight of a cubic centimetre of water. 



BENZINE 

OR 

Dry Cleaning Soap. 

It is superior to Castile, being FKEE from any offensive smell ; 
will keep SWEET any length of time ; is NEUTRAL, therefore 
will not injure any color; will dissolve perfectly in Benzine. Fifty 
lb. box sent C. O. D. Price per pound, 10 cents. CARRIAGE 
PAID. Don't lay this aside, but order at ONCE for TRIAL before 
you are out of present stock. Sample free. 



PURE OIL SOAP STOCK. 

This is the best Soap ever made FOR ALL SCOURING PUR- 
POSES. It is NEUTRAL, therefore will not injure any color ; is 
PERFECTLY SWEET and leaves NO ODOR IN GOODS. It 
has not a PARTICLE of adulteration and is Pure White. Made 
expressly for the DYER AND CLEANER, AND FOR LAUN- 
DRY PURPOSES. Dissolves at boiling point in 10 minutes. 
Dissolves at 110° F. in one hour. Will keep liquefied at 75° F. 
Contains not a particle of Lard or Cotton Seed Oil. WILL DO 
DOUBLE THE WORK OF OTHER SOAPS. 

In bbls, about 300 lbs., price 5 cents per lb. 
SOLD ON ITS MERITS. 



Manufactured by 

F. J. BIRD, 

2106 COLUMBIA AVENUE, 

Philadelphia, Pa. 



u 



fl u 

ft 01 ^ 

»*! 

7 3 Pk 

^« 

fc CR S 



s 



P<1 




F.J. TBIRD. 
HYDRO EXTRACTOR 



Worked by Hand or Power. 

A good reliable Whizzer to work by hand has been much sought 
after. Several attempts have been made in this direction, but no 
machine has before been produced that runs easy enough for a boy 
to use. This one is cheap enough to come within the means of 
everyone and so simple that it does not get out of order. It can be 
fixed by any one perfectly solid. 

This Machine we now offer. It is made of Galvanized Iron, so 
never rusts. 

It is so perfectly adjusted that it does not oscillate. 

The cogs, etc., are made of cast steel so are not liable to break. 

Every part is numbered, so they can be duplicated at any time. 

PRICE: 

No. 1. Inside measurement ol basket, 24 inches, $50.00 

This size is large enough for nearly all purposes, as it will take 
from six to nine suits of clothes at a time. Weight, 300 pounds. 
No. 2. Inside measurement of basket, 30 inches, $75.00 

Weight of No. 2 is 400 pounds. 
Same price for Steam or Hand Power. 
Manufactured and sold by 

F. J. BIRD, 
2io6 COLUMBIA AVENUE, 

Philadelphia, Pa. 



3 



TELEPHONE CONNECTION. 

E. SEHLBACH & CO., 

48 Cedar Street, New York. 

Boston. Philadelphia. Chicago. 



Sole Importers of 

Alizarine and Aniline Colors 

Manfactured by 

FARBENFABRIKEN vormals FRIEDR. BAYER & CO. 

ELBERFELD AND BARMEN, GERMANY. 



Sole Agents of the 

HUDSON RIVER ANILINE COLOR WORKS, 

ALBANY, N. Y. 

INDIGO 

EXTRACT 

AND 

Manufactured by 

Wm. J. Matheson & Co., Limited., 178 Front St., New York. 

D ... (Boston, 492-496 Atlantic Avenue, 

branch nOUSeS!^ Philadelphia, 140 South Delaware Avenue. 
(Providence, 22 South Water Street. 

Works, L. I. CITY and BROOKLYN, N. Y. 



Ostrich Feather 
Dyeing. 

STRUNK & VANSANT, 

702 Arch St., Philada. 

Feathers of every description, dyed, cleaned and curled. Made 
equal to new. 

We solicit your patronage and a trial of our work. Prices sent 
on application. 

Feathers sent by Mail or by Express to all parts of the country. 

Remittance can be made in two-cent postage stamps. 

Special prices given to all cleaners and scourers. 

LEOPOLD CASSELLA & CO'S 

ANILINE 
DYES. 

Imported by 

WM. J. MATHESON & CO., Limited, 
148 Front St., New York. 

(Boston, 492-496 Atlantic Avenue. 
Branch Houses : < Philadelphia, 140 South Delaware Avenue. 
(Providence, 22 South Water Street. 

Works, L. I. CITY and BROOKLYN, N. Y. 




Logwood 

Fustic 

Sumac 



Manufactured by 

WM. J. MATHESON & CO., Limited, 
178 Front St., New York. 

[Boston, 492-496 Atlantic Avenue. 
Branch HoUSeS!*; Philadelphia, 140 South Delaware Avenue. 
(Providence, 22 South Water Street. 

Works, L. I. CITY and BROOKLYN, N. Y. 

TEXTILE 

COLORIST. 

A Monthly Journal, devoted to 

Practical Dyeing, Bleaching, Print- 
ing and Finishing, Dyes, Dye- 
stuffs and Chemicals as 
Applied to Dyeing. 

Textile Machinery, Carding:, Spinning:, 
Weaving, Designing: and Improved Pro- 
cesses in Textile Manufacturing;. 

Established January, 1879. Copyright secured, 1890. 

Published on the 15th of each month at 506 Arch Street. 
Yearly Subscription, Five Dollars, invariably in advance. 



Read Holliday & Sons, 

IvIMITKD, 

367 Atlantic Ave., 45 3W. Front St., 

Boston, Mass. Philadelphia, Pa. 

Principal Office, 7 Piatt Street, flew York. 

Manufacturers of 

Aniline Oil, Salts, Dyes, Indigo Extracts, Archil, 

Cudbear, Thio Chromogen, Auroline, 

Nitrite of Soda, Picric Acid 

and Patentees of 

Acid Magenta. 

Telephone No. 1280 Cortlandt. 



ALIZARINE 

AND 

COAL-TAR 

Imported by 

WM. J. MATHESON & CO., Limited, 
178 Front St., New York. 



(Boston, 492-496 Atlantic Avenue. 
Branch Houses.' < Philadelphia, 140 South Delaware Avenue. 
(Providence, 22 South Water Street. 

Works, L. I. CITY and BROOKLYN, N. Y. 




Neutral or Sweet 
Colors for Garment Dyers. 

SOLD BY F J. BIRD. 

Fuchsine, best crystals, $1 25 

Chrysoidine, Y or E, 75 

Neutral Cardinal, darker and yellower than fuchsine, 1 15 

Garnet, darker than cardinal, 1 25 

Bismarck, red or yellow, 75 

Neutral Brown, 1 10 

Seal Brown, 1 25 

Brilliant Green, (neutral), 1 25 

Violet, 1 50 

Olive Green, 1 25 

Bronze Green, 1 25 

Plum Color, 1 50 

Bright Blue, on green or red shade, 1 50 

Will dye from 4 B to dark shade. 

Navy Blue, 1 50 

All the above will dye on silk and wool. Cotton must be mordanted. 

ACID FAST COLORS FOR SILK AND WOOL. 

Scarlet, any shade, $ 50 

Cardinal, has no equal, 75 

Canary Color, 1 00 

Strong Yellow, 75 

Orange, any shade, 50 

Wine Color, 75 

Mahogany and Terra Cotta, , 75 

Garnet, 75 

Green, fine shade, 1 25 

Medium and Bottle Green, 1 25 

Olive and Bronze Green, 1 00 

Blue, 4B shade, 1 50 

Navy, any shade, ,....,., 1 50 

Golden Brown (fine), 1 00 

This is an extraordinary good thing, as it will dye a fine 
tan color, golden brown, medium brown, down to a full 
yellow shade of seal brown. Please try it. 
Fast Black for Wool. Fast Black for Mixed Goods. 
Fast Black Cotton. Fast Black for Silk. 



THE PRACTICAL BLEACHER 

AND 

Ostrich Feather Dyer, 

BY 

ALEXANDER PAUL, 1888. 

Price $10.00. 

This Work is full of dyed samples of all colors and shades, with 
the formulas to produce the same, filling 190 pages. The book is 
well gotten up, and $1000 is offered to any one who will prove that 
any formula given in it will not produce the color or shade 
shown. 

Eevised by Dr. M. FRANK. 

On receipt of published price, F. J. BIRD will send it postpaid. 

BURK & McFETRIDGE, 

Printers, * 

Publishers $ 
% Lithographers, 

306-308 Chestnut Street, 
Philadelphia. 



9 

THE 

DYERS' SUPPLEMENT 

OF THE 

MANUFACTURERS' REVIEW AND INDUSTRIAL RECORD, 

Costs only TWO DOLLARS a Year 
To Subscribers in the United States and Canada. 



THE INDUSTRIAL RECORD. 



A Practical Handbook 

For Mill-Owners, Superintendents, Designers, Carders, Spin- 
ners, Weavers, Knitters, Dyers, and Finishers in 
Cotton, Wool, Silk, or Flax. 

This journal is mailed to subscribers by the year upon payment 
of the following rates, which include postage : — 

United States and Canada, $2.00 

With Dyers' Supplement, 3.50 

Dyers' Supplement alone, 2.00 



SPECIMEN COPIES FREE UPON APPLICATION. 



Address 

THE INDUSTRIAL RECORD CO., Limited, 

PUBLISHERS, 

P. O. Box 1396. 140 Nassau Street, New York. 



10 



THE 



AMERICAN 

Practical Dyer's Companion; 

COMPRISING 

A Description of the Principal Dye-Stuffs and Chemicals 

used in Dyeing, their Mures and Uses; 

Mordants, and how Made; 



THE BEST AMERICAN, ENGLISH, FRENCH, and GERMAN PROCESSES 

for bleaching and dyeing silk, wool, cotton, linen, 

flannel, felt, dress goods, mixed and hosiery 

yarns, feathers, grass, felt, fur, wool, 

and straw hats, jute yarn, vegetable 

ivory, mats, skins, furs, 

leather, etc., etc. 

By Wood, Aniline and Other Processes, 

TOGETHER WITH 

REMARKS ON FINISHING AGENTS AND INSTRUCTIONS IN THE 
FINISHING OF FABRICS, SUBSTITUTES FOR INDIGO, WATER- 
PROOFING OF MATERIALS, TESTS AND PURIFICATION OF 
WATER, MANUFACTURE OF ANILINE AND OTHER 
NEW DYE WARES, HARMONIZING COLORS, ETC. ; 

EMBRACING IN ALL 

OVER EIGHT HUNDRED RECEIPTS FOR COLORS AND SHADES, 

ACCOMPANIED BY ONE HUNDRED AND SEVENTY DYED 

SAMPLES OF RAW MATERIALS AND FABRICS. 

BY 



J. BIRD, 



PRACTICAL DYER, 
AUTHOR OF "THE DYER'S HAND-BOOK. 
$IO.OO. 



11 




<6lN.> 



life w 



€ 



8 IN, 





The Punch here shown, as used both for wet and dry cleaning, is 
made of lance, poplar or any white wood ; the size indicated is 
the most useful. 

The slot, as shown on one side, is cut out on all sides, and the 
corners slightly rounded at bottom so they don't cut. 



The Steam Kettle will do made of tin, zinc or copper. The 
top can be made to lift off. Underneath, just where the lid begins 
to extend over kettle, a flange is raised on kettle 1 inch to meet 
flange on lid that exactly meet each other ; this shuts off the steam, 
which then passes over the flange into the extension, on which 
plush or velvet pieces can be steamed. It has two handles on each 
side to carry it with. 



12 




CURLING KNIFE. 

The cut shows about one-half regular size. It can be had fr«im 
Strunk & Vansant, 702 Arch Street, who are the most popular dyers 
to the trade; are quite conversant with their work, and can with 
pleasure recommend them as being first class in every respect. 
They work for over half the trade of Philadelphia. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 

A Word in Reference to Same. 

Only reliable houses have been admitted, who can be depended 
upon for such goods the cleaner, dyer and finisher always require 
in the business. 

In reference to machinery, etc, required, if any of my readers 
desire my personal inspection of any orders, if sent to me I will 
place them in good hands for best work at reasonable prices, and 
see that they are executed properly. 



13 







The Wringers have our Purchase Gear, by which an equal 
quantity of work can be accomplished with half the labor required 
by any other Wringer, and the wear of the rolls greatly lessened. 

Our Purchase Gear applies the power by means of a small gear- 
wheel on the crank to larger gear-wheels on the rolls, a mechanical 
device which doubles the power applied, and saves half the labor in 
wringing the clothes; and by having the crank on a separate gear 
the power is applied evenly to both rolls, and they last much 
longer, for when the crank is attached to the shaft of either roll, 
that roll wears out long before the other. 

Only the best materials are used in our Wringers, and they are 
guaranteed against defects. If made with tight and loose pulleys, 
they are 9 inches diameter, 3^ inch face. 

This size is made with pulleys for power, as shown above, or with 
crank, only; also a larger size is made with rolls 16 x 1\\ inches, 
for extra heavy work. 

Size 14. Rolls 14 x 2\, (crank) $14 00 

(pulleys) 17 00 

Size 16. Rolls 16 x 2|, (crank) 18 00 

" " (pulleys) 21 00 

Having tested for some years this Wringer. I can 

challenge the world for its equal, K. J. BIRD 

will send it safely packed on receipt 

of price or C. O. O. 



14 



The "Perfection" Gas Sad Iron. 




STYI,E B, C AND I>. (Xailors' Iron). 

Style B, face 3| x 10}; weight, complete, 17 lbs. 

Style C, face 8-f x 10}; weight, complete, 20 lbs. 

Style D, face 3f x 10 J; weight, complete, 25 lbs. 
Price, complete, with six feet of tubing, $10.00. If for hand 
work, stand will be furnished. 




STYI.E A. (Machine Iron). 

Size of face 3f x 12} inches; weight 13 lbs. This style can also 
be furnished for hand work at same price aa B, C and D Iron. 

Price, complete, with six feet of tubing and stand for Iron as per 
page 11, $10.00. 

As a Machine 1 Iron this is without a competitor. No time is lost by Iron 
getting cool, as any heat desired can be obtained. The cost of gas consumed 
for ten hours work is only six cents (gas to cost 81.50 per 1,000). 



15 



Special Notice. 



'-THE "PERFECTION" GAS SAD IRONS are guaranteed 
the most practical and economical on the market. Three min- 
utes after being ignited they are ready for use. With the burners 
used, all soot and dirt is entirely done away with. The cost of gas 
used for ten hours is six cents (gas to cost $1.50 per 1,000). 

By our patented process of heating we got one-third more heat 
than can be obtained by any other manner. All Irons have full 
nickeled face, so that trouble in regard to rust is entirely overcome. 
The attachment is of the simplest kind ; we furnish six feet of 
tubing, with brass sockets on each end. Where the gas cannot be 
regulated above, we furnish stop cocks on Irons at an extra cost of 
50 cents. 

We guarantee entire satisfaction, and responsible parties can have 
goods on trial. 

The Blackhall Mfg. Company, 

Buffalo, N. Y. 



An Automatic Pressing Machine, as, also Hatters and Cloak and 
Mantle Irons are made by this Company. All of which can be 
recommended and supplied at list-price by F. J. BIRD. 



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